226/228 or 230/227?
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226/228 or 230/227?
both with .58x lift and on 114lsa. Any idea which would meet my setup best and idle good?
as ive posted in here before, my 224/224 might need replacing so while im in there i just wanted to go slightly bigger.
i have all bolts on, slp lt's, tea 1.5 heads, 3600vig, 3.42 gears, and yada yada yada....
i was wondering which would make a tad more hp over the other. I realize HP gains wouldnt be more than 10-15, so thats no biggie... 7-10hp would be fine lol
my exhaust has the offroad pipe and cutout so its pretty free flowing with the cutout open
any ideas?
as ive posted in here before, my 224/224 might need replacing so while im in there i just wanted to go slightly bigger.
i have all bolts on, slp lt's, tea 1.5 heads, 3600vig, 3.42 gears, and yada yada yada....
i was wondering which would make a tad more hp over the other. I realize HP gains wouldnt be more than 10-15, so thats no biggie... 7-10hp would be fine lol
my exhaust has the offroad pipe and cutout so its pretty free flowing with the cutout open
any ideas?
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damn john, i gotta send you that friggin file. I forgot all about it
i took a look at the F11 cam... 228/230 and im diggin that one now
so many cams... so much info... cant make a decision
i took a look at the F11 cam... 228/230 and im diggin that one now
so many cams... so much info... cant make a decision
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As i said in my pm on the efa boards (slick98_z28), whatever you first thought was "big enough" just go slightlyb igger, the 228/230...thats what im talkin about.
Good luck man.
Travis
Good luck man.
Travis
#6
Here's a little thing that I believe to be true:
Intakes are sensitive to both duration and lift, however exhausts are mainly sensitive to duration.
If you look at the head flows, you will see the exhaust flatten at about .4". However, when it opens there is about 150psi behind it. When it is open on the exhaust stroke it is really all over.
The intake as a minimal pressure drop. So it is a matter of shrouding, port design, and valve curtain area.
Just my 2¢
David
Intakes are sensitive to both duration and lift, however exhausts are mainly sensitive to duration.
If you look at the head flows, you will see the exhaust flatten at about .4". However, when it opens there is about 150psi behind it. When it is open on the exhaust stroke it is really all over.
The intake as a minimal pressure drop. So it is a matter of shrouding, port design, and valve curtain area.
Just my 2¢
David
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the 226/228 is gonna idle better and be more streetable. It will also make more power under tha curve than the reverse split. The reverse split might out peak hp the 226/228, but if it's a daily driven car, the 226/228 will perform better than the reverse split....It's been researched and proven that the reverse split are nice for the peak hp numbers, but lack in bottom end power. also, the overlap of the 226/228 is -1, while the reverse split is barely choppier at .5
Good luck with your selection!!
EDIT...compared to the FM11..
FM11---overlap=1...split=2
226/228---overlap=-1....split=2
Personally, i'd go FM11, but notice the lift is higher than what you originally wanted( fm11 is .576/.595)
Good luck with your selection!!
EDIT...compared to the FM11..
FM11---overlap=1...split=2
226/228---overlap=-1....split=2
Personally, i'd go FM11, but notice the lift is higher than what you originally wanted( fm11 is .576/.595)
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im strongly leaning towards that F11 now.. seems like a fairly good street/track cam.. not to big.. not to small
thanks for the help.. ill do some more reading on the f11's tonight in here
thanks for the help.. ill do some more reading on the f11's tonight in here
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Bigger and tighter to go faster. If you wanna keep the stall that you have then you are on the right path. If you could go to a bigger stall then you could choose a bigger cam with more ovelap to provide more power. Also, look at some of the more agressive lobes out there. That will really help you make more power while not loosing any streetablity. I will send you a pm over on Eastern Fbody.