piston slap...
#2
What does it sound like when you fire it up? Is it loud? Like a jarring sound? It happens when you first start the car and goes on for like 10 sec.
Not a serious problem, just adds unnecessary wear to your motor, but then again so does driving it.
Btw, I've never heard of 98's having major piston slap issues.
Not a serious problem, just adds unnecessary wear to your motor, but then again so does driving it.
Btw, I've never heard of 98's having major piston slap issues.
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Originally Posted by natronathon
how do i tell if my car has piston slap? Also, if it does, is this a serious problem, how can it be fixed?
arent you a little old, forumwise, to be asking this question?
no its not serious, and its a ticking noise that is usually very noticeable on startup, but most cars it goes away after warmup.
what, nathon, you gonna ask a lid question next?
just messin with ya man
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This is the first place Ive ever heard of pistonslap. I always have known it as engine knock. I see that it is teh same thing, I just never heard this terminology before.
Anyway, if my engine was knocking I would stopd driving it and rebuild it. Once it starts it will never go away. It comes from your rod ends having too much tolerance and it vibrates back and forth..therefore causing and engine knock.
Anyway, if my engine was knocking I would stopd driving it and rebuild it. Once it starts it will never go away. It comes from your rod ends having too much tolerance and it vibrates back and forth..therefore causing and engine knock.
#10
Originally Posted by SgtB
This is the first place Ive ever heard of pistonslap. I always have known it as engine knock. I see that it is teh same thing, I just never heard this terminology before.
Anyway, if my engine was knocking I would stopd driving it and rebuild it. Once it starts it will never go away. It comes from your rod ends having too much tolerance and it vibrates back and forth..therefore causing and engine knock.
Anyway, if my engine was knocking I would stopd driving it and rebuild it. Once it starts it will never go away. It comes from your rod ends having too much tolerance and it vibrates back and forth..therefore causing and engine knock.
#11
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Originally Posted by sumdumbum
So a rebuild should get rid of piston slap? How much would a rebuild cost (to OEM specs and also if you had it bored and other things put if - assuming you supplied the parts)? The reason I ask is I may be looking for a LS1 in a few months, just curious on what I should look out for.
You need know exactly what you want to do in order to estimate a price
What pistons
What connecting rods
What size bore
What stroke length
what cam
All these things make a difference
#12
Originally Posted by B-MAN
You can't say OEM specs and suggest a different bore?
You need know exactly what you want to do in order to estimate a price
What pistons
What connecting rods
What size bore
What stroke length
what cam
All these things make a difference
You need know exactly what you want to do in order to estimate a price
What pistons
What connecting rods
What size bore
What stroke length
what cam
All these things make a difference
edit: oh yeah, but would a rebuild get rid of slap?
Last edited by sumdumbum; 01-12-2005 at 10:18 PM.
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well, luvmez28
I was merely curious. I agree that I am gettin on in years in this forum, still have some aging post-wise to catch with some of ya, but i never really resolved this issue in my brain, and now that its cold out, and my engine is a bit more noisy when starting, i just was wondering. I can safely say, i am piston slap free.
Thanks for the info gentlemen, and dont worry luvmez28, i know ur messin around. but two things you should know:
1. ive got a whisper lid
2. its Nathan! not Nathon (AHHHHHH!!!!)
And i guess it just comes down to the fact that, im still a newb at heart
NOT!
I was merely curious. I agree that I am gettin on in years in this forum, still have some aging post-wise to catch with some of ya, but i never really resolved this issue in my brain, and now that its cold out, and my engine is a bit more noisy when starting, i just was wondering. I can safely say, i am piston slap free.
Thanks for the info gentlemen, and dont worry luvmez28, i know ur messin around. but two things you should know:
1. ive got a whisper lid
2. its Nathan! not Nathon (AHHHHHH!!!!)
And i guess it just comes down to the fact that, im still a newb at heart
NOT!
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Originally Posted by sumdumbum
So a rebuild should get rid of piston slap? How much would a rebuild cost (to OEM specs and also if you had it bored and other things put if - assuming you supplied the parts)? The reason I ask is I may be looking for a LS1 in a few months, just curious on what I should look out for.
If you need more help feel free to send me an email
brian.bilski@airliance.com
#16
Piston slap is very common on a lot of Gm cars and trucks not just the LS1. This has to do with the type of materials in the pistons and rings. There have been many TSB's
from Gm about this. They claim that if it goes away within 90 seconds afters start up, Gm considers this normal. The only way to eleminate this would be to use after market pistons and rings with a different composition than OEM.
from Gm about this. They claim that if it goes away within 90 seconds afters start up, Gm considers this normal. The only way to eleminate this would be to use after market pistons and rings with a different composition than OEM.
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Originally Posted by natronathon
well, luvmez28
I was merely curious. I agree that I am gettin on in years in this forum, still have some aging post-wise to catch with some of ya, but i never really resolved this issue in my brain, and now that its cold out, and my engine is a bit more noisy when starting, i just was wondering. I can safely say, i am piston slap free.
Thanks for the info gentlemen, and dont worry luvmez28, i know ur messin around. but two things you should know:
1. ive got a whisper lid
2. its Nathan! not Nathon (AHHHHHH!!!!)
And i guess it just comes down to the fact that, im still a newb at heart
NOT!
I was merely curious. I agree that I am gettin on in years in this forum, still have some aging post-wise to catch with some of ya, but i never really resolved this issue in my brain, and now that its cold out, and my engine is a bit more noisy when starting, i just was wondering. I can safely say, i am piston slap free.
Thanks for the info gentlemen, and dont worry luvmez28, i know ur messin around. but two things you should know:
1. ive got a whisper lid
2. its Nathan! not Nathon (AHHHHHH!!!!)
And i guess it just comes down to the fact that, im still a newb at heart
NOT!
should have got an MTI lid
and sorry about the nathOn thing, the natro threw me off.
so when are you gonna get LTs? ive got mine sitting in the garage, waiting for an ORY. so take that!
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Originally Posted by incautious
Piston slap is very common on a lot of Gm cars and trucks not just the LS1. This has to do with the type of materials in the pistons and rings. There have been many TSB's
from Gm about this. They claim that if it goes away within 90 seconds afters start up, Gm considers this normal. The only way to eleminate this would be to use after market pistons and rings with a different composition than OEM.
from Gm about this. They claim that if it goes away within 90 seconds afters start up, Gm considers this normal. The only way to eleminate this would be to use after market pistons and rings with a different composition than OEM.
seems that GM has made the pistons lighter to rev more by making shorter straight skirts on the pistons and when they are cold there is too much clearance between the piston and the wall and it slaps against the wall making the ticking sound until it warms up and the piston expands and closes up some of the clearance
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Originally Posted by Full-Force
well not according to the experts
seems that GM has made the pistons lighter to rev more by making shorter straight skirts on the pistons and when they are cold there is too much clearance between the piston and the wall and it slaps against the wall making the ticking sound until it warms up and the piston expands and closes up some of the clearance
seems that GM has made the pistons lighter to rev more by making shorter straight skirts on the pistons and when they are cold there is too much clearance between the piston and the wall and it slaps against the wall making the ticking sound until it warms up and the piston expands and closes up some of the clearance