in need of 12 bolt yet?
#1
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in need of 12 bolt yet?
just got nittos, and people said that i am gona snap my rear. A 12 bolt is in the plans, but do i need it yet? Car is still basically stock. mods in sig. if so, what gears. like 273's? want a highway monster!
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With your mods and those tires, you don't *need* a 12-bolt yet. If you ran at the track with slicks, I would say be ready to buy one soon. What do you mean by 'highway monster'? You want to race at high speeds? Good fuel economy? You can leave your gears alone if you're not worried about racing off the line.
If you have the money to blow on a 12-bolt now..you should get one. The stock rearend sucks, and it would be nice to be safe than sorry.
If you have the money to blow on a 12-bolt now..you should get one. The stock rearend sucks, and it would be nice to be safe than sorry.
#3
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you should be fine if you have an automatic...power doesn't necassarily kill the rear...it is the shock (m6 cars are violent in this area, producing many of the broken 10 bolts) and please don't get 2.73's that is just too low of gear...3.73's are nice for an auto
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it is an m6. Yea, what i meant by highway monster is that I race mostly on the highway, from like a 40 or 50 punch. Its just that it s my DD, and i cant afford to have it in the shop for a long time, so if i need am in danger of busting the 10 bolt, then i want to go ahead and order a 12 bolt and install it. If not i would rather get intake manifold, throttle body cam ext.... I guess a 12 bolt is my next mod though. Is a good investment, cause i will eventully need one. Thanks
#6
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With what you want I wold say the ten bolt would hold up for now. I think it is the hard lauches mainly from a stand still that breaks it most of the time. I have any A4 with et streets on it. it pulls the wheel up on lauch about 4 inches 60 ft was 1.63. It has made 30 passes at the track no proplems yet but thats not to say the next pass wont break it though. also the 12 bolt may cost you a few horses at the rear wheels. So if you want to try and keep it a ten bolt be prepared because some have better luck than others but with you intenitions I say keep it ten until you get some major mods.
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i got about 130 passes on my 100% stock 10 bolt and about 150 street races before it finally died. 4k dumps with nittos. it just depends on your luck. also - change the fluid a lot if you beat it alot.
#9
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yea, ok. Will just try not to launch it for a while. So just curious. Ford 9" vs. 12 bolt ????? I heard the ford was heavy. Whats the pro's/con's of each?
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Originally Posted by BlueSix
The 9" is heavy, but indestructible. 12 bolt rears break a lot more than people would lead you to think.
My 9" shipped was 199lbs. My freinds 12 bolt shipped was 191lbs. Ive seen 12 bolts break with 450hp. I dont think ive ever seen a 9" with spool and 35 splines break.
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Also with a 9" you can't get a three channel setup just yet from what I understand. That is, if you have antilock brakes and no traction control, you can't hook this up to a 9".
If you have a 4 channel, both traction control and antilock brakes you can hook this up to a 9". If anyone has actually seen a 3 channel setup for a 9", please let me know!
If you have a 4 channel, both traction control and antilock brakes you can hook this up to a 9". If anyone has actually seen a 3 channel setup for a 9", please let me know!
#14
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Actually, the Fabbed 9" from Jaybillsingey(sponsor----->) is abpout 30lbs lighter than the 12 bolt. From what i've seen here, the 12 bolt is a "fad" if you will.....but doesn't seem to be reliable enough to stand up to the $2000 price tag it cost to get in the door with one.
Me...I'll be spending the extra 1K on a Fabbed 9" from Jay when the time comes. Why? Cause I know if i spend the little extra the first time....it'll also be the LAST time i have to mess with the rear end!
http://www.billingsleyracing.biz/Drivetrain_GM.htm
Me...I'll be spending the extra 1K on a Fabbed 9" from Jay when the time comes. Why? Cause I know if i spend the little extra the first time....it'll also be the LAST time i have to mess with the rear end!
http://www.billingsleyracing.biz/Drivetrain_GM.htm
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Originally Posted by landonew
I dont know if I have traction control. If I dont want it but have it, can i just not connect it. is the 9" any more xpensive?
I don't know about disconnecting traction control myself. If you had it you would most assuredly know I think.
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Originally Posted by Joker
and the power loss is greater in using a 9" than a 12, but to know you won't break it as easy is worth the money to me
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#18
um the billingsley 9" street ready package is a fully assembled unit for 2300. Right in line with all the other units and stronger. This is the one i'm lookin at. Now that i have a cam/headers.
Edit: I must be drunk. Disregard, i just re-read the web site.
Edit: I must be drunk. Disregard, i just re-read the web site.
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Yes you can still have ABS and ASR/TCS with a 9". It only works on 4 channel cars but if you have ASR/TCS then you have a 4 channel setup.
People start rumors that you cant have a 9" with a 3 channel setup and its silly because if you have a 3 channel you didnt have TCS to begin with.
People start rumors that you cant have a 9" with a 3 channel setup and its silly because if you have a 3 channel you didnt have TCS to begin with.
#20
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Originally Posted by TOMMY BOY74
So how much RWHP-RWTQ I need to lift up my front wheels? A wheel stand is the next thing in my mind...
And before I hijack this thread, it is just a matter of time to break the 10 bolt stock rear...but some of us are very-very lucky.
If you have money for it get it now, sooner or later you will get one anyways, if I had money I would buy a 9" right now.
And before I hijack this thread, it is just a matter of time to break the 10 bolt stock rear...but some of us are very-very lucky.
If you have money for it get it now, sooner or later you will get one anyways, if I had money I would buy a 9" right now.