StangKillaLS1

Im planning on getting a 383 stroker assembly since Im going to need forged internals for N20 and it would be a good idea to get new parts in my high mileage engine. Since ive been looking at prices for new rotating assembly its about the same price for keeping it 346ci and 383ci, why not just buy the 383 and get 50rwhp or so. I see that Lunati has one for $3,700, SLP has theres for $2595, and Keith Craft motorsports has 2, ones a 383 budget and the others 383 competition. The only real difference between the 2 from KCM is one has Diamond Pistons and the other has JE. My question is which out of all these, or ones I havent listed are the best for the price??? I think the Lunatis a little high, Im kinda thinking the KCM ones, but with the 383 Budget with = Eagle 4.000 stroke 4340 crankshaft,Eagle 4340 6.125 H-beam rods, Diamond Flat-top Pistons, Mahle Plasma-moly rings, F-M rod & main bearings
and the Competitions = Lunati 4.000 stroke 4340 steel crankshaft, lunati 6.125 4340 pro-billet rods, JE custom flat-top Pistons,tool steel pins, plasma-moly rings, federal-mogul bearings...
Would the Budget one work for a H/C with 150 dry or wet shot. So id probably be putting 600-650rwhp on the ground, or would the competition be better for me??? Im not sure how good the Diamond pistons are compaired to JEs.

BAM-BAM

iTrader: (2)

i went to texas speed and performance...
jason hooked me up..went with the lunati crank..crower rods and diamond pistons...its been good so far...took them about 4weeks...

98 ss a4 onyx...some mods.....

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

Per my engine builder, the Lunati Kit is good for at least 1250-1300 hp. Also, Lunati will internally balance the crank for free. I bought my crank from Lunati, and the pro billet rods and 8cc dish pistions from other sources (all Lunati pieces). I bought the crank last, gave Lunati the weights on each rod and piston and they internally balanced it for free. I also saved a ton of money (paid $1800 for crank, 650 for rods, and 350 for pistons...all new...saved $900). Also, make sure if you go with the Eagle H-beam rods that you don't use the small block chevy rods; the small ends are offset a few thousandths to align in the SBC bores. LS1 rods have no offset because the crank journals are centered in the bores. Some shops use the SBC rods because they are a lot cheaper and say the few thousands won't make a difference. Wrong! If you are running a lot of compression, juice, or boost, there is enough cylinder pressure to cause the offset to front load the pistons causing premature wear of the pistons and ovaling of the bores. Granted it will take some time, but if you are going to do it, do it right, and if you are going to do it right, spend the bucks for ARP main and head studs. You won't regret it if someday you decide to bump to 300 shot.
Sorry so long, but this is information that most guys aren't aware of and most shops won't tell you, sometimes even if you ask.

Good luck,
Tom

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

If you are going to stay under say 800 crank hp I would by the Eagle rotating assembly, the last one I got was 2200 bucks complete- just took it to the machine shop for a 150 buck internal balance job.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Lets try this one in here.

tdogg5.3

iTrader: (6)

150 balance job is a good price isn't it? i need to get my assembly balanced i have ross flat top pistons, eagle h beams, and prolly going with an eagle crank because of price.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

I think it is. Go ahead and get the Eagle assembly because it comes with JE pistons- unless you already have it.