Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys im trying to remove my a/c but not my heater.

When I go to block off where the a/c goes into the heater box, do I need to make sure that it is pressure tight or can it just be sealed to prevent debris from going in there?

Thanks

Nate

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

i'd like to know this as well please. i don't know what the inside of that box looks like, but i figured i could eliminate the whole thing, use a Billingsley blockoff plate, and a pair of bulkhead fittings to pass the inlet and outlet lines through. then just put the heater core behind the dash. does this sound doable?

thanks,
Dave

waltsfastz

iTrader: (4)

Well Ive spent the last 3 days working on my wrecked vert that had some of the HVAC boxes damaged during the crash. If you dont seal it good than your blower motor pressure can travel through the evaperator core opening. I took my AC off of the 96 but left the EC in due to it is a bitch to remove. I may be wrong but Id say you would have to remove the dash cause i think the box has to seperate to remove it. I may be wrong though.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

When I removed my A/C I left those 2 lines sticking out of the dash toward the engine open. My heat worked fine.

waltsfastz

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I think hes talking about removing that(evaporator core)

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

i did the same as magnus,heater works great. ALSO..when i remover my a/c,air system and front sway(near 60lbs off the nose) i gained 1.9 tenths in the 1/4mi with no other mods.

libertine1015

iTrader: (5)

I have seen many late model I/P's on fixtures and bucks (I work for a supplier) although I have not seen one of these out of the car. GM does like to tie the HVAC unit into the steel cross car beam and use it structuraly to make the I/P stiffer where as other OEMs like DCX like to sit their IP on top of an HVAC already attached to the fire wall. If the F bod HVAC is bolted into the steel beam asy then I would say the I/P needs to come out and it can be a real bitch. Make sure the batt is disconnected to avoid possible airbag deployments. It would probably take 2 guys about 3 hours to get it out I would guess.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

I think i understand what you're saying. And I'm still trying to have my heater work. So I can just disconnect the compressor, the two lines that go into the heater core box and the a/c condensor and pull em all out and then my heat will still work?

And you guys didn't fab up any sort of block off plate for where those two a/c lines go? Maybe I can run to the hardware store and pick up something that will work like a sort of plug.

Somebody correct me if I'm not going about this the right way.

Nate

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

i fabed nothing. i did cover the open ends with some suranwrap just do no dirt gets into it. if i ever sell the car,the other person may want the air to work again.

12secondv6

Me too... heat is fine also

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

ok then. a/c is coming out tonight.

What should I expect when i unbolt the lines, freon to liquify? Or will it just make a loud swoosh and pollute the o-zone.

Nate

csmonte

you might get some moisture but not liquid.

You pritty much got it. Make sure you leave the garage doors open when its leaking out.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

cool thanks a bunch guys. there goes another 35 lbs off the nose of the car.

Nate