LS6 346 to 382 Forged
#1
LS6 346 to 382 Forged
I'm considering a 346 to 382 forged engine.
I've been told by one of our sponsor's that this conversion, burns or consumer more or alot of oil. I've been told the rods are in the oil most of the time.
Of the folks out there with a 346 to 382 convertions, if you could chine in on this one.
Also, if i do go the route of this convertion, what is the most economical way- Which kit, that still is a quality kit.
What are the typical costs of installation of this kit.
What are the typical gains from a kit like this(30-40hp)??
I've been told by one of our sponsor's that this conversion, burns or consumer more or alot of oil. I've been told the rods are in the oil most of the time.
Of the folks out there with a 346 to 382 convertions, if you could chine in on this one.
Also, if i do go the route of this convertion, what is the most economical way- Which kit, that still is a quality kit.
What are the typical costs of installation of this kit.
What are the typical gains from a kit like this(30-40hp)??
#2
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HP gains alone are not the way to look at a 383 stroker. The big gains come in the mid range. You get a big increase in TQ below 4500 with a stroker compared with a 346.
Also to fully benefit you may want to look at upgrading your heads, cam and go to a 90mm intake & TB. In fact, a set of AFR 205s, a 224 cam, and the 90mm Intake would probably get you 30 - 40 HP if that is your goal w/o doing the bottom end.
Also to fully benefit you may want to look at upgrading your heads, cam and go to a 90mm intake & TB. In fact, a set of AFR 205s, a 224 cam, and the 90mm Intake would probably get you 30 - 40 HP if that is your goal w/o doing the bottom end.
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Where are u located.
First of of the crank is in the oil then you are casing the oil to froth and this is bad. IF the oil froths and gets to the pic up tube than by by motor. So the rods and crank are not in the oil most of the time if at all.
The 383 will get you a TQ beast. With the right set up Heads/Cam and all the bolt on you could see 460rwhp in a DD.
First of of the crank is in the oil then you are casing the oil to froth and this is bad. IF the oil froths and gets to the pic up tube than by by motor. So the rods and crank are not in the oil most of the time if at all.
The 383 will get you a TQ beast. With the right set up Heads/Cam and all the bolt on you could see 460rwhp in a DD.
#4
Well both of you are correct about the tq, this is why I would like a mild stroker. I'm really just looking for all the torque i can get!!!
I currently have a stage 2 head, which i would reuse, I also have a light cam, but it's a very torquey cam at that.
I thinking of going an LSX intake & 90mm t-body, this spring on the 346. I've upgraded everything, but the bottom end. I know i can reuse these on the 382.
I was thinking to do a supercharger sometime down the road;But i really like N./A.
How much might(ball park) a quality 382 pacakge run with instalation??
Lastly, I'm located in Chicagoland area.
I currently have a stage 2 head, which i would reuse, I also have a light cam, but it's a very torquey cam at that.
I thinking of going an LSX intake & 90mm t-body, this spring on the 346. I've upgraded everything, but the bottom end. I know i can reuse these on the 382.
I was thinking to do a supercharger sometime down the road;But i really like N./A.
How much might(ball park) a quality 382 pacakge run with instalation??
Lastly, I'm located in Chicagoland area.
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Originally Posted by 89FormulaLS1
Daily Driver; a car that you drive everyday on the street, as opposed to a car that is used primarily for racing on the track
You shouldn't have any problem with building a 382/383. I have about 3k miles on mine right now and I only used 1/4 - 1/2 a quart duing the break in. Check with the sponsors, many of them can get you an Eagle rotating assembly for around $2k.
#9
ok, the car is a DD... TAquickness, can you give me a ball park on installation. I've not seen rotating assemblies this cheap. Which sponsor and what instalation charges are common.
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Originally Posted by goober35
Where are u located.
First of of the crank is in the oil then you are casing the oil to froth and this is bad. IF the oil froths and gets to the pic up tube than by by motor. So the rods and crank are not in the oil most of the time if at all.
First of of the crank is in the oil then you are casing the oil to froth and this is bad. IF the oil froths and gets to the pic up tube than by by motor. So the rods and crank are not in the oil most of the time if at all.
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Originally Posted by jz06man
ok, the car is a DD... TAquickness, can you give me a ball park on installation. I've not seen rotating assemblies this cheap. Which sponsor and what instalation charges are common.
Mine is a DD as well. I had HPE (281 448 1300) machine and assemble my motor and I did the rest of the grunt work. All said and done, my long block ran me 6k - that includes the cost of not making the right purchases the first time. Best thing to do is pick a sponsor, tell them what you want, and let them build it. It's cheaper in the long run.
Sam98 hit the nail on the head. We have a lot of sponsors capable of building some bad *** motors.
#13
Would it not be more cost effective to use my current block or engine, chnage the cranke shaft, change the rod's, pistons and a set of high performance bearings and get them installed. I'm sure I'll have to change my cam, but I'm planning on keep my heads and all the rest. I've seen on a few of the sponser site- any where 2500-3500 for the stroker kit, but labor needs to be added.
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Originally Posted by jz06man
Would it not be more cost effective to use my current block or engine, chnage the cranke shaft, change the rod's, pistons and a set of high performance bearings and get them installed. I'm sure I'll have to change my cam, but I'm planning on keep my heads and all the rest. I've seen on a few of the sponser site- any where 2500-3500 for the stroker kit, but labor needs to be added.
Yes its a little cheaper to do it yourself..but trust me having built my own..these companies earn their pay. And now with all the competition prices are coming down.
Its all the special tools and fixtures you need to do it right..and a service manual..that add to your cost.
Those heads arent very good for a high output stroker...
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Go to the Sponsor section and check out the "Mother of all shorblock sales" from APE. You could get the fully balanced and assembled 383 or 408 stroker with NO core charge, sell the shortblock you have now, and basically have the thing all put together for slightly more than the price you are looking at for an unassembled kit.
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^^^ agreed ^^^. By me reusing and finding the best deal on all my parts, not counting the parts I had to by twice or more, I only saved about 100 bucks. If I had just bought the 383 short block from HPE, I wouldn't have had near as much head ache. Most of the sponsors will bend over backwards to make sure you get what you want.