rgriffin

1)Can this cam be ran without a stall?

2)If so will it run like a dog?

3)Can it be ran in a A4 without a tune?

4)If I go with the 114LSA will it be better for me?

I was originally going to do a TR224, but I keep hearing everyone say, "pick the cam you want, and go one higher". Comments like this are kinda swaying my decision.

This car is my daily driver. I want it to be driveable (I probably only go to the track once a year, one or two stoplite runs/month), but I also want some lope to it. I hear from folks that when the car (w/ a TR224)is tuned, you will have to listen hard to hear the cam. Is true?

My goal is to smoke this guys Z06.

99 SS, Lid, Pacesetter w/ ORY, Hooker Muffler (Cam and 150shot commin).

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

u can hear my 224 cam on 114 LSA in mine... its no where near stock sound lol

now run it through a stock muffler and its gonna be quiet.. anything in the 220-226range will sound fairly quiet on a stock muffler.

I went from the 224 to the F11 cam on 114 LSA... i just wanted something slightly under 230ish on 114.

But, that cam is really really really gonna need a stall... the only cams I would run o na stock stall are 220 and under lol

its gonna feel like dogcrap below 45mph without a stall. Punch it front 60 and it may feel strong though.

Just get a stall and he will crap his pants when you hole shot his car by 1-2 cars fyi.. Either you will have to have a Trex or bigger cam only setup to beat or hang with a Z06 from a roll... even a A4 with H/C if gonna have a hellova time beating a Z06 from a roll..I ran a stock 01 from 55 and he jumped out a car and I stayed at his rear bumper(dead even race, he just jumped me). This was with a 224 cam and heads fyi

now if I run him from dead stop and its no contest

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Get a stall first!!

Dont look at cams until you have a stall. The converter will make a huge difference itself.

rgriffin

If stock Z06's run 12.5+ how come cam only guys cant hang from a roll when they can go under 12.5?

rgriffin

The reason I really dont want a stall is b/c right now If I get on it in 1st Ill spin my *** off (no Im not wanting to buy DR's, I actually want some life out of my tires). :burnout:

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

My car went 12.22...spanked a 405HP Z06 at the track...wasnt even a race. All the advantage is on the launch. M6s can hardly touch that (lol).

You'll get used to the stall quick and everyday driving is no problem...my Nittos have ~7,000 miles on the (plenty of burnouts) and they are only about half worn. They dont wear as bad as people say.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

When I spoke to Allan about the possibility of an FM13 in my car he told me that the stall I had was the bare minimum needed. I have a Vig3200. I stuck w/Futral, but went another route w/them.

It'll probably "run" on a stock tune, but its going to run horribly. Spend the money & either get it tuned or buy HPTuners yourself. Good luck

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

uhh.... if u dont get a stall and some headers.. well i wish u the best trying to drive ur car around town lol.

truth is man, i have a 3000 stall, and i cant tell the difference..

if u add a tr224 without a stall, its going to be more unstreetable then if u had a higher stall... ur also going to what to get some exhuast work done! pick up a pair of cheap mac mid lenghts headers and a cutout, and a 2800-3200 stall, then get ur tr224 and some tires! the stall and exhuast will help ur 1/4 miles #'s prolly more then the cam will drop them after the stall and exhaust... just my .02, but if u go the route ur going im afraid ur really going to "LOSE" time, and the car wont be a very good daily driver either.

if u want just a cam, buy a z06 cam! but i give u a 20rwhp gain at most without headers and more boltons!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

people like this crack me up, i want D, E, F w/o doing A, B, C.

i did an FM10 install on a guys car with a bolt ons, 2800 TC, 2.73's, and "tune". it was a , kept waiting for the power to kick in but it never did.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

ouch..

rgriffin

Hey JRP did It ever occur to you, thats why I'm asking. I never had a car /w a big stall, never had a cammed car. Yes I have worked on cars but it was more out of nessicity not a hobby(Tho I did successfully change the rear gears/axles/differential in a IROC my myself before.)
Even though you guys are supposed to be the "experts" there is no reason for the "better than thou, your stupid attitude".

I thought I had everything except the converter. I have the headers, ORY, Lid, Hooker muffler, I just wanted to see if I could get away w/o a stall for about 6 months until I got the time to replace the converter.

LS198TA

iTrader: (1)

stock converter will make your car buck like crazy in low rmps from a stop with a 224 cam

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

griffin....

track ET and street ET's are 2 different things...

I can run a 11.5 and a Z06 only run a 12.5 but still he would eat my azz alive from a roll. His mph is probbaly 117 while mines 117 also. Just look at his MPH and you can gauge how your car would do form a roll.

The only way i would run a Z06 is at the track or from dead stop on the street They are just deadly quick from a punch.. light car with good HP

but deifnitly man.. for that verter most would say atleast get a 3600 stall... is anything a 4000-4200 would be perfect for that cam.

plus with a verter, you will enjoy the car more. Less hassle of internal crap and tuning going bad lol

rgriffin

Thanks 98TAauto and LS198TA. I guess Im gonna go with the converter first. Which what stall do you reccommend (Brand/Model Number)?

soslo

iTrader: (12)

Rgriffin, I don't think JRP was trying to belittle you as much as it may have sounded. It's just that there is a "generally accepted" order to modding a car that allows you to buy parts in progression without having too much trouble. IE: getting a stall in an auto before getting a big cam.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

you can "get away" with anything you want. im not trying to single you out, its just time and time again i see people with the same mentality install a whole mess of mismatched parts and they wonder why they ony gained 10rwhp and .1 off there e.t and there car runs like ****.

your also missing an ls6 intake as well. then there's the TB and pulley.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

griffin, take a look at the et database here and see which most like to run.. I think yank is still one of the best. I have a vig3600 and its done me well for 4 years worth of use. If I did it over, i'd probably get a yank pt4200. But anything in the 3200-4200 range is a good choice. Pick one you want, and go 200-400rpms more and you will be happy. I started with a 2800yank. It felt stock after 2 hours! Put in the 3600 and ive loved it ever since.

good luck man speaking from experience, the cam and all is a nice mod. But the stall was the best mod I ever did to the A4. Once you get stalled, then look into cams or etc this summer/fall or next spring

goodluck

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Vigs are pretty loose though...at least mine is....I can stall mine past the "3200", does the same go for yours?

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Same for mine. The single disk vig's tend to be underrated as far as stall. They seem to really be around a 3800. The 3200 is the best all around converter from Vig. I have a thread up on the A4 section to get people opinions and input on a how a multi-disk would do for me, but no one has chimed in. I keep searching but can find answers to my questions.

gwj

I've been running a 3500 stall for over 70K miles w/2.73 gears, and I would say if you have 3.23s definitely ,never, go under a 3500 stall. I've had good luck w/my Yank 'verter.