224/224 581 lift 112 lsa & just stock converter???
#1
224/224 581 lift 112 lsa & just stock converter???
Just bought a MTI C2 224/224 581/581 112 cam. Waiting on getting everything together before I install this. It always seem to be one thing or another that slows me up on my LS1 build p for my 2000 WS6. Now, after watching the HPTV, I'm going to get the double roller chain and high volume oil pump. Is it neccessary with this cam? I don't know, but it's something that won't hurt to buy and install. Also, for the build up, I am thinking about stage 3 heads from precision porting. They have the biggest bang for the buck heads on the market. But thats another thing holding me up on my build up as well. Work a lot of overtime to buy stuff and not install it until ya got everything together for a one shot install. However, I am stuck on whether to go with a stall convertor now or wait till later. I know everyone tells me I should go with no less than a 3500 stall. However, if I wait to by this as well, this will delay me from driving the car until I get the stall. Is it absolutely neccessary to have this stall. In other words, is the car just not going to drive good w/o it? What will it do with this cam, stage 3 heads, and ls6 intake at take off and at idle at a stop light w/o the higher rpm stall and just running on a stock converter? Also, would any of you guys trust a used stall converter that's up for sale? You never know if it has been abused or torn up...hence it is a sealed unit?
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To get the full benefit of your engine build up you will need to get a stall, however I don't think you run the risk of having any problems w/ the stocker and your planned mods other than your A4 probably not being long for this world stock or not.
#4
Originally Posted by K9 Pusher
To get the full benefit of your engine build up you will need to get a stall, however I don't think you run the risk of having any problems w/ the stocker and your planned mods other than your A4 probably not being long for this world stock or not.
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The stock A4 doesn't handle extra power very well man. If you baby it, it will probably last awhile but what fun is that? I would start saving for a rebuild by somebody competent in your area or a new trans from a sponsor--------->
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I have heard 350 RWHP stock but never seen an actual confirmed number. Just know that with the mods you have planned sooner or later you are going to need a rebuild w/ stronger parts, a built tranny from a sponsor, or change to a M6, TH350, etc. etc..
#9
WOW!!! I am really surprise in that number K9. I have 326 rwhp and haven't had any problems yet. Not to doubt you, you are probally right. However, are there other mods that can be done to the tranny I have to beef it up. If so, which of the sponsors would you recommend me looking into? Thanks, I do appreciate your help.
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Like I said, don't take it as the gospel, that is just what I have heard as far as longevity. I'm sure there are people running much more with no problems and others who can't keep a tranny together longer than a weekend. As far as building up your trans, I'm kinda new to this too so I would suggest searching around this section of the forum to find some answers. You could also try out Pro Built Automatics, they have packages to upgrade your A4 as well as whole trannies that are built already for good prices and I haven't heard anything negative about them. Good luck
#13
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I had a MTI T1 (221/221) cam in my car with no stall. It ran like a turd. It would bog horribly from a dig. From a roll it was ok. But at the track it did no better since It bogged every time. It was a super bogger until I dished out money for a stall.
My 98Z is pushing 379rwhp unlocked and 390rwtq on stock tranny with just a tranny cooler, deeper pan and 3500stall. No problems yet - but who knows.
My 98Z is pushing 379rwhp unlocked and 390rwtq on stock tranny with just a tranny cooler, deeper pan and 3500stall. No problems yet - but who knows.
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You will definitely want tuning at the least. The large, high
overlap cams will really bend your low-RPM pumping (VE)
and whack the mixture. This will surely cost you low end
performance, but you can get some back by truing it up.
You will want to raise your idle speed for clean idle and
drivability but the stock converter will start to load up
if you raise it much. Bummer.
While you are at it you will want to change the part-
throttle and WOT shiftpoints to keep you in the sweet
spot. A converter helps, by making the trans sort of act
like a close-ratio (never fall all the way down in RPM).
I think you stand to gain more, fun- and performance-wise,
by picking a converter that complements the cam and not
try to make it an all-out-RPM-monster (because as I see it
the tight-center cam is not meant for high RPM but more
for midband to maybe 6000?) with every fancy internal. That
also bears on the heads, if this cam is one you're going to
stick with (are they, ever?) you might ought to shop heads
that are "good enough for what the cam will let" and not
be seduced by the monster power / flow claims that pertain
to some combo with a much wilder setup. All depends on
where you think you're headed (pardon the pun).
overlap cams will really bend your low-RPM pumping (VE)
and whack the mixture. This will surely cost you low end
performance, but you can get some back by truing it up.
You will want to raise your idle speed for clean idle and
drivability but the stock converter will start to load up
if you raise it much. Bummer.
While you are at it you will want to change the part-
throttle and WOT shiftpoints to keep you in the sweet
spot. A converter helps, by making the trans sort of act
like a close-ratio (never fall all the way down in RPM).
I think you stand to gain more, fun- and performance-wise,
by picking a converter that complements the cam and not
try to make it an all-out-RPM-monster (because as I see it
the tight-center cam is not meant for high RPM but more
for midband to maybe 6000?) with every fancy internal. That
also bears on the heads, if this cam is one you're going to
stick with (are they, ever?) you might ought to shop heads
that are "good enough for what the cam will let" and not
be seduced by the monster power / flow claims that pertain
to some combo with a much wilder setup. All depends on
where you think you're headed (pardon the pun).
#15
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
You will definitely want tuning at the least. The large, high
overlap cams will really bend your low-RPM pumping (VE)
and whack the mixture. This will surely cost you low end
performance, but you can get some back by truing it up.
You will want to raise your idle speed for clean idle and
drivability but the stock converter will start to load up
if you raise it much..............
overlap cams will really bend your low-RPM pumping (VE)
and whack the mixture. This will surely cost you low end
performance, but you can get some back by truing it up.
You will want to raise your idle speed for clean idle and
drivability but the stock converter will start to load up
if you raise it much..............
#16
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Same LSA I guess (though I have seen variously 112 and
110 stated) but you have more duration and lift I think.
I don't think the hotcam is a "no tuning required" cam
(unlike the Z06 cams with their wide LSA) though I
expect a lot of people try to get by. It's said to have a
pretty lumpy idle.
110 stated) but you have more duration and lift I think.
I don't think the hotcam is a "no tuning required" cam
(unlike the Z06 cams with their wide LSA) though I
expect a lot of people try to get by. It's said to have a
pretty lumpy idle.