SouthFL.02.SS

Alright guys, the top of my SLP Tq Arm Brace conflicts with the driver's side side/upper walls in the driveshaft tunnel. I did not have this problem before, as I was running a stock Tq Arm with my old 9".
Now, I've read many remedies for this conflict, ranging from cutting a hole in the underbody and fabbing an indentation (not an option for me), to beating the underbody metal into shape to allow enough clearance.
This may sound like a stupid question, but what did the beaters (hehe) use to beat the underbody? As I need to purchase the proper beating tools that will pound this underbody into place without mangling it.
I'm awaiting the arrival of a UMI adustable Panhard rod to help a bit, but I'm still sure that there will be some massaging to do.

Please chime in saying/instructing me to grab a sledgehammer and start pounding away at the underside of my car, as that is what I want to hear, as this 9" install has extracted every bit of patience from my living soul (axles too long/ Yoke - U-joint mismatch/ now this).

BOWTIE

Which rear set up did you go with... It sounds like you are going through alot of the same pains I did (except as far as I know my axles were the right length).

SouthFL.02.SS

Moser 9", Posi, 4.11, 1310 Yoke (to my dismay), longer studs at axles. Purchased it via telephone from Thunder (Thunder has no drop down menu for the 9" and does not list the 9" upgrades).

To all potential Moser 9" buyers: NOTE, IT IS NOT A DIRECT BOLT IN!

BOWTIE

And in response to your original question, yes... That is what I had to do to clear my Spohn T/A. I beat on it with a sledge (had to remove both the driveshaft and T/A to get enough whacking clearance), then grabbed a huge 3/4" breaker bar (I do not even have sockets to fit it anyway) and proceeded to whack on that with the sledge. It was long enough to reach the top of the tunnel and still be able to get a swing at it and small enough in diameter to fit in between and around the Exhaust and rear yoke to allow multiple strikes from different angles and to different locations. I had a second person just move the strike point around while I proceeded to pound away. We finally got enough clearance. By the way, do not start pounding in the middle as it seems to keep bouncing back, but start near the folds at each end and work your way in. Hope that helps.

SouthFL.02.SS

Many thanks. <- Literally!

jerflash

is there any way to get around having to smash the sh*t out of my trans tunnel?

i really want a 9" but i want to use a spohn T/A but if i need to fo this i will not get a 9"

SouthFL.02.SS

You could use a stock tq arm, but then the pinion angle won't be correct. I believe CAL cut a hole in his underbody and welded a box out of sheetmetal to cap the hole. Sounds like a clean fix, but way to complicated for me and my limited tools/time.

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

Im surprised you guys are having this problem.no problems here.just got done swapping gears last week and everything went back on smooth.have the 1350 yoke and spohn t/a with the single d/s loop on the tranny side.ordered my 9in. straight from moser through my local shop 2yrs ago.

SouthFL.02.SS

I also had a Spohn Tq arm (the short, tunnel brace mount kind) ready to go on. It didn't clear my exhaust, thus the SLP tailshaft mount Adj. Tq Arm went on.
I do remember that I checked an option for 9" application when ordering the Spohn. Perhaps they shave the rear brace/bracket a bit for better clearance?
I do know however, that this tq arm/tunnel conflict is very common.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

if you can, take some pics after its all "massaged" into place. im planning a 9"/sphon TQ arm in the future, and i'd like to see some pics of what awaits me.

SouthFL.02.SS

Will do.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

See my post in the other thread about what I did. It was minimal.

BOWTIE

The problem with the 9" is they have to move the T/A attachment over towards the drivers side about 1" to clear the wider center section. The Spohn T/A ordered for a 9" will have 4 holes to use to bolt it up and you use the set that moves the T/A back towards the center, but in my case it still hit on the inside of the tunnel hard. One thing that would possibly help would be to move the rear axle farther back (via adjustable LCA,s) but my driveshaft is already too short and I could not do that safely. By the way, one of the T/A bracket attachment bolts (the top bolt that attaches the cast T/A bracket to the welded to the axle attachement points) is also hitting on the backside of the chassis. This one I know could be solved by moving the axle back a 1/2" or so if only I had a 1" to 1 1/2" longer driveshaft I would.

BOWTIE

Maybe you got yours when they still cared about quality control. I do not know if they are still using the same jig or if they have made new ones or what, but whatever they are using now is by no means exact. Every bracket on mine (which was ordered brand new and drop shipped from Moser the end of Dec.) has been off. The rear axle set in the car crooked with the LCA's not touched from the previous rear axle which was near perfect (checked on a 4 wheel alignment rack), and the panhard bar had to be used to pull the rear axle to center actually placing the LCA's at a little bit of an angle. I just hope this thing will go straight if I vere make it to the track. If I had to do it again, I would either go with a Strange 12 bolt or use the Billingsley Racing Fabbed housing, I am sure he takes more time to get his stuff orientated correctly.

SouthFL.02.SS

Damn straight!!!!

Wino

iTrader: (11)

Man, I feel your pain. I went through all kinds of problems trying to get a moser 9" set up right in my car back in august. From driveline vibration to wheel hop, I've had it all. These are not direct bolt in rear ends.

I didn't notice the torque arm clearance problem until it had already made it's own dents. I did hammer a little on the tunnel just to stop any further damage though. I'll get some pics when I put the BMR tranny Xmember on.

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem with a Strange 12 Bolt and Spohn TA - Stock ride height.

I have an easier way of making the dent w/o removing anything. I took an old shovel and cut it to a length that would allow me to reach up between TA, DS, and exhaust to make a dent. I had to work the dent from different angles but it works great. Make sure you cut both ends of the handle square. On one of the ends I rounded off the edge to keep from scratching the coating on the tunned. I think a normal handle end would have to much of a bevel. I had a slight mark from where the rubbing occured and I used the stick and a regular hammer to make a dent. You'll have to move the handle to different locations to get the dent deep enough.

I hope this helps.

FIREHAWK #07

iTrader: (1)

can anyone post pics of the massaging you guys had to do.... just finished installing a 9" with Sphon TA and having the same issues..... just wanting to see how much massaging you guys did..

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes this is a very common problem with any aftermarket torque arm out there. On a stock height vehicle and a stock rear-end and even the 12-bolts this usually isn't a issue. But adding a 9" moves the torque arm closer to the drivers side tunnel causing a clearance issue, a few hits with a hammer usually clears this up. The other issue is on a lowered car this same problem occurs. It is very hard to develop a torque arm that is adjustable and strong enough to prevent breaking but still clear the tunnel. So this is some thing we have to deal with.

FIREHAWK #07

iTrader: (1)

after putting the stock springs only in the rear, it seems to not rub as much as it did before, but i am still not able to spot the exact location where its hitting the bottom of my car.... it feels like its hitting somewhere around the bottom of my console, but i just dont see where it hits. Thanks in advance