Quick general tuning questions (aka help a slow car out)...
02-16-2005, 09:16 PM
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Quick general tuning questions (aka help a slow car out)... Swapping in a 3.42 rear in place of my 2.73 rear, and also going to do some tuning while I'm in there to correct for that. HPTuners is the tool, 1.4 but should be 1.6 by swap time. Some general questions, but first car info...
Stock Internal, only power mods are cold air intake (Suncoast "ram air" intake) and Hooker catback. Built 4L60E with a TCS 3200 stall (yes the company that tanked). And now, 3.42 gears.
Besides that nothing done to it. We believe my car may have the low timing tables as it's always been a slug. So much so that performance mods are of little appeal to me because I feel like I'm fighting a losing battle. So while I'm in correcting for the gears, what are some general, roundabout things I can do to improve the performance over my stock tune? Mainly thinking of things like...
Adjusting shift points and rev limiter. Where should a stock LS1 shift at and where should the rev limiter be (113k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 80k of those)?
Deleting torque management, should I?
Timing, where is optimal timing and what should my O2s read to watch out for a lean/rich condition?
And maybe some tinkering on my VE tables (any tips here are appreciated as well).
Just really looking to try to squeeze a few more HP out of the car before I start in on the other bolt on power mods like headers, LS6 intake, etc. Thanks a ton for any help, it is greatly appreciated.
Stock Internal, only power mods are cold air intake (Suncoast "ram air" intake) and Hooker catback. Built 4L60E with a TCS 3200 stall (yes the company that tanked). And now, 3.42 gears.
Besides that nothing done to it. We believe my car may have the low timing tables as it's always been a slug. So much so that performance mods are of little appeal to me because I feel like I'm fighting a losing battle. So while I'm in correcting for the gears, what are some general, roundabout things I can do to improve the performance over my stock tune? Mainly thinking of things like...
Adjusting shift points and rev limiter. Where should a stock LS1 shift at and where should the rev limiter be (113k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 80k of those)?
Deleting torque management, should I?
Timing, where is optimal timing and what should my O2s read to watch out for a lean/rich condition?
And maybe some tinkering on my VE tables (any tips here are appreciated as well).
Just really looking to try to squeeze a few more HP out of the car before I start in on the other bolt on power mods like headers, LS6 intake, etc. Thanks a ton for any help, it is greatly appreciated.
02-21-2005, 12:01 AM
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Bumping to the top, just five minutes out of your day if you know what you're doing. Just give me some general things to look for and tweak in there. I've never did my own tuning before and I'm a pretty busy guy, so I dont have the time to weed through all the great info on here. Just in need of some basic and simple help.
02-23-2005, 10:37 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by josh99ta
Besides that nothing done to it. We believe my car may have the low timing tables as it's always been a slug. So much so that performance mods are of little appeal to me because I feel like I'm fighting a losing battle. So while I'm in correcting for the gears, what are some general, roundabout things I can do to improve the performance over my stock tune? Mainly thinking of things like...
Adjusting shift points and rev limiter. Where should a stock LS1 shift at and where should the rev limiter be (113k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 80k of those)?
aim for around 5900rpm maybe 6000 RPM, on stock valve springs with that many miles I wouldn't go any higher
Deleting torque management, should I?
if you're tranny's built then definetly, on a stocker w/113k miles (do they even last that long stock?
) I'd leave this, but w/a fresh transmission go for it
Timing, where is optimal timing and what should my O2s read to watch out for a lean/rich condition?
It's not very accurate tuning WOT based on narrowband O2s, but before wideband O2 sensors were as abundant as they are now that's how everyone did it
I used to like seeing .920/.930 at WOT. Optimal timing is as much as you can run w/out knock... I generally shoot for the brink of knock (get fueling dialed in first) then back it down a couple degrees... you can probably see 27 very easily, maybe even up to 29*
And maybe some tinkering on my VE tables (any tips here are appreciated as well).
This gets more complicated, but there are lots of posts here and on the HP Tuners site about VE tuning
Just really looking to try to squeeze a few more HP out of the car before I start in on the other bolt on power mods like headers, LS6 intake, etc. Thanks a ton for any help, it is greatly appreciated.
Adjusting shift points and rev limiter. Where should a stock LS1 shift at and where should the rev limiter be (113k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 80k of those)?
aim for around 5900rpm maybe 6000 RPM, on stock valve springs with that many miles I wouldn't go any higher
Deleting torque management, should I?
if you're tranny's built then definetly, on a stocker w/113k miles (do they even last that long stock?
) I'd leave this, but w/a fresh transmission go for itTiming, where is optimal timing and what should my O2s read to watch out for a lean/rich condition?
It's not very accurate tuning WOT based on narrowband O2s, but before wideband O2 sensors were as abundant as they are now that's how everyone did it
I used to like seeing .920/.930 at WOT. Optimal timing is as much as you can run w/out knock... I generally shoot for the brink of knock (get fueling dialed in first) then back it down a couple degrees... you can probably see 27 very easily, maybe even up to 29*And maybe some tinkering on my VE tables (any tips here are appreciated as well).
This gets more complicated, but there are lots of posts here and on the HP Tuners site about VE tuning
Just really looking to try to squeeze a few more HP out of the car before I start in on the other bolt on power mods like headers, LS6 intake, etc. Thanks a ton for any help, it is greatly appreciated.
see comments in bold
02-24-2005, 12:03 AM
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Much appreciated. I figured messing with the VE tables might be over my head at this point. Probably just looking to set my shift points and limiter at the correct points, getting torque management out of there, and getting my timing up a little. The hope is that a friend who has some tuning experience will be there to help out but I'm not sure if he'll make it or not so I need all the backup help I can get.
Question, is a degree or two of knock OK or should it be at absolute zero (ex: I have no knock at 20 degrees but only 1 or 2 degrees of knock at 28 degrees of timing, is that acceptable and would I make more power on the lower timing or upper timing)? And if you've got the time to answer this one, when you say get fuel dialed in first, then mess with timing, what tables will I be editing inside HPTuners for the fuel? Should I just make some small changes and then use my O2 readings to try to get as close as possible while watching the other parameters as well (knock and the like)? So basically try to get my O2s around that range and then up the timing until I start running into some knock, and then back it off a little?
Question, is a degree or two of knock OK or should it be at absolute zero (ex: I have no knock at 20 degrees but only 1 or 2 degrees of knock at 28 degrees of timing, is that acceptable and would I make more power on the lower timing or upper timing)? And if you've got the time to answer this one, when you say get fuel dialed in first, then mess with timing, what tables will I be editing inside HPTuners for the fuel? Should I just make some small changes and then use my O2 readings to try to get as close as possible while watching the other parameters as well (knock and the like)? So basically try to get my O2s around that range and then up the timing until I start running into some knock, and then back it off a little?