shed major weight........
#1
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shed major weight........
SPEEDGLASS vs. GLASS
WEIGHT COMPARISON
The most valuable advantage of SPEEDGLASS for racers is the tremendous weight savings, not to mention being
shatterproof and extremely scratch resistant.
Following is an actual weight savings comparison for some popular race applications. Weight savings can vary
depending on thicknesses of SPEEDGLASS
windows used. The following comparisons are factory glass vs. a full set of 1/8" SPEEDGLASS windows, common
for most race applications.
WHY CHOOSE SPEEDGLASS OVER UNCOATED LEXAN ?
HIGHLY SCRATCH AND CHEMICAL RESISTANT
(RESISTS VIGOROUS RUBBING WITH STEEL WOOL!)
*50%-75% LIGHTER THAN GLASS
*FLEXIBLE
*SHATTERPROOF
*HIGHER RESISTANCE TO PITTING THAN UNCOATED LEXAN
*THE BEST IN OPTICAL CLARITY
*CAN BE CLEANED WITH STANDARD GLASS CLEANER
( NO EXTRA POLISHES OR CLEANERS NEEDED)
*EXCELLENT WATER SHEDDING CAPABILITIES
(WATER BEADS UP AND BLOWS OFF CREATING FANTASTIC VISIBILITY)
*WINDSHIELD WIPER FRIENDLY
Application
Factory Glass Weight
SPEEDGLASS Weight
Weight Savings
79 - 93 Mustang
71 lbs.
28 lbs.
43 lbs.
82 - 92 Camaro
108 lbs.
31 lbs.
77 lbs.
93 - 01 Camaro
96 lbs.
32 lbs.
64 lbs.
we are doing a group purchase on this product.
Last edited by Chris @ Speed Inc.; 02-21-2005 at 04:54 PM.
#2
I might be interested. Is there any obvious visual differences? Would somebody be able to tell if you were running speed glass on your car? What would installation costs be like?
Is 77 LBS worth it on a Camaro? I looked up the prices on Jegs, and 1000 bucks is kinda steep for what you get in return. Can anybody tell me why this would significant?
Is 77 LBS worth it on a Camaro? I looked up the prices on Jegs, and 1000 bucks is kinda steep for what you get in return. Can anybody tell me why this would significant?
#5
The Bull
They didn't mention that the stuff is absolutely crystal clear. Also, from what they said at PRI 1/8" thick requires support struts while 3/16" does not. For those that are interested in this it would be more adviseable to run the 3/16" unless you want to support it. The door windows are screw in only, I do not believe they roll up and down. They also would require a small tubular frame to screw them to.
What is your GP arrangement?
What is your GP arrangement?
#7
The Bull
They were very up front at PRI about not running them without supports. I'm sure you could to some degree. But they didn't indicate at which point it starts to concave on you.
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Originally Posted by Chris @ Speed Inc.
we are doing a group purchase on this product.
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I have a set (front / rear) of Percy's sitting in the barn gathering dust...one day they'll be on. The front is 3/16" and weighs around 18#'s untrimmed with the rear 1/8" weighing about the same. The front winshield supposedly weighs around 30#'s which would make since because of the following: 1) The rear weighs ~38#'s as I have one out of another hatch right now, and 2) The side windows weigh ~14#'s each as I've weighed those out of another car.
The trimming MIGHT save 1# or less as they are fairly close to the factory glass. So, lots of work to save 34#'s for the front and rear combined. I even asked Percy's when I ordered mine last fall how the heck they came up with 64#'s savings even with 1/8" front glass. I did not get a good answer. Kind of, "That's just what they tell me."
On the side windows, they will NOT roll up properly as they are too flexible. They have curvature that is close to factory and shuts decently for a race-car that is NOT going to roll the windows down. Percy's warned me directly of this, and I took a trip to look at a car with them in the sides. He was glad he had an enclosed trailer as they would not seal well. The front and rear will support itself on the opening. Don't forget that you have to mask and then bead blast or scuff up the perimeter in order to paint to cover where the urethane will go.
All this is why I bought a spare Firebird hatch (cheaply) to weigh, take apart, prep, and put on the rear Percy's long BEFORE I would hack my windshield out.
I am not knocking the product, just trying to inform those thinking about purchasing in order to keep from being disappointed. It's definitely decent way to save some weight, but not for the faint of heart. Take care.
The trimming MIGHT save 1# or less as they are fairly close to the factory glass. So, lots of work to save 34#'s for the front and rear combined. I even asked Percy's when I ordered mine last fall how the heck they came up with 64#'s savings even with 1/8" front glass. I did not get a good answer. Kind of, "That's just what they tell me."
On the side windows, they will NOT roll up properly as they are too flexible. They have curvature that is close to factory and shuts decently for a race-car that is NOT going to roll the windows down. Percy's warned me directly of this, and I took a trip to look at a car with them in the sides. He was glad he had an enclosed trailer as they would not seal well. The front and rear will support itself on the opening. Don't forget that you have to mask and then bead blast or scuff up the perimeter in order to paint to cover where the urethane will go.
All this is why I bought a spare Firebird hatch (cheaply) to weigh, take apart, prep, and put on the rear Percy's long BEFORE I would hack my windshield out.
I am not knocking the product, just trying to inform those thinking about purchasing in order to keep from being disappointed. It's definitely decent way to save some weight, but not for the faint of heart. Take care.
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
bickel, why wouldnt you be able to just put the glass back in?
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Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
John, you obviously could reinstall the stock glass, but I was addressing the entire weight reduction topic. IMHO, destroying and removing parts from these cars is a big mistake. It greatly reduces their value as a street car, which is how 99.9% of people view them.