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motor mount install?

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Old 03-11-2005, 09:34 AM
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Default motor mount install?

I am looking for an install guide for poly motor mounts. I did the search, and i did not come up with anything with pictures. although i did find a good write up. I am more of a visual person, so i need to see, as well as read. Does anyone have one, or know where to get one? Any other tricks i should know? I am changing my headers again, so i figure this will be a good time to do the mounts.

Thanks alot, any help will be appreciated
Old 03-11-2005, 09:47 AM
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It's not that hard. I did mine when I did the K Member and that made it a lot easier.

You will need to remove the bolt that goes through the motor mount. 18mm i think.

Put a peice of 2x4 on a jack under the oil pan to support the motor. and jack it up to get the mount out. You may need to loosen the 6 bolts that hold the K member in to get the mounts out.

There are 4 13mm (I think) bolts that hold the mount to the block. Pull these and the mount will come out.

Follow the directions on the new mounts at to grinding and drilling the rivets out of the clam shell to get the old mount out. Use a propane torch to heat the clam shell and break the glue bond on the old mount.

Put the clam shell back together with the new mount and bolts.

Install the mount to the block and put the bolt back into the mount.

HTH
Old 03-11-2005, 03:49 PM
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do you have any pics though??
Old 03-11-2005, 03:55 PM
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thanks for the directions Steve. sorry for the hijack Jimmy.
Old 03-11-2005, 04:42 PM
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its all good, learning experience for all
Old 03-12-2005, 04:04 PM
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passenger side you will need to drop the A/C compressor. Driver side you will need to at the very least move the alternator.

Much much much easier to do while installing headers
Old 03-12-2005, 07:29 PM
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Buy a six pack. Drink a beer. Jack up car and put it on stands.
Get under car. Wonder how in the hell you're going to do this.
Get out from under car, scratch head, drink another beer.
Remove alternator. Drop alternator on the sway bar and catch your fingers.
Cuss. Drink another beer. Support motor with jack. Loosen motor mount through bolt. Raise motor to relieve tension on bolt. Remove bolt.
Try to break motor mount bolts loose. Wrench slips, making you bust the hell outta your hand on the oil pan. Cuss. Drink a beer.
Get a bigger wrench and manage to loosen all motor mount bolts.
Try to remove motor mount, figure out that you can't do it without removing the k-member pedestal. Work around steering shaft, barely able to turn bolts.
Get pedestal loose and motor mount out. Install new mount in clamshell. Drink two remaining beers.

Have someone bring you another six-pack. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Seriously though, do a search for "poly mounts" under the username "Fulton1"
That's the one I used.

Have fun!
Old 03-14-2005, 06:34 PM
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I had a problem installing one of the prothane mounts on a friend's car where the long bolt would get stuck when trying to feed it through after installing the mounts. Turned out there was some extra poly material inside the mount hole that wouldn't let the bolt through without a lot of force. I had to use a drill bit to clear it out (after removing the mount from the motor and trying for hours trying to get the bolt through while it was on the engine).

If you install these I'd recommend checking to see if the bolt will slide through the mount before putting them back on the engine.
Old 03-15-2005, 07:35 AM
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did mine this weekend and it sux, I only removed starter and alternator...loosen both mounts and tranny mount to raise engine as high as possible, but watch out for wires and headers when you jack it up....good luck
Old 03-15-2005, 10:43 AM
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One other tip. A 13MM gear wrench and a 13MM shallow swivel socket (the real socket not the adapter) go a long way to making this easier.
Old 10-27-2006, 08:33 AM
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i know this is a long dead thread, but my mounts are long dead too and i wanted to tackle this install myself...

how long did it take you guys to do this? I just got the prothane inserts and trans mount...but i was gonna do it with the headers and k-member both bolted in place...

i tried to find the fulton1 install instructions and struck out...
Old 10-27-2006, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Fedge
i know this is a long dead thread, but my mounts are long dead too and i wanted to tackle this install myself...

how long did it take you guys to do this? I just got the prothane inserts and trans mount...but i was gonna do it with the headers and k-member both bolted in place...

i tried to find the fulton1 install instructions and struck out...
It was a good 12-14 hour job for me. Just trying to get the four bolts out and back in was a pain and very time consuming. But I am glad to say that all the hard work paid off and I have no more y-pipe banging my floorboard. Would of definately been easier when I did the headers, but just didn't listen!
Old 10-27-2006, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Judge Smales
It was a good 12-14 hour job for me. Just trying to get the four bolts out and back in was a pain and very time consuming. But I am glad to say that all the hard work paid off and I have no more y-pipe banging my floorboard. Would of definately been easier when I did the headers, but just didn't listen!
i concur. i worked on it for 6 hours today (stupid autumn) and only have one out of the car to show for it. the driver's side won't allow the studs to come out of the block with the pedstal in place, so i am working on that now...one more bolt to go! next, drilling and rebolting. then i get to do the trans, torque arm mounts and stat
Old 10-28-2006, 01:54 PM
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Ya know theres a sticky on motor mounts?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/508688-mounts-transmission-motor.html

Its an easy job, you just neded the right tools. To make it real easy unbolt the alternator and AC compressor and just push them out of the way, you dont actually have to pull them compoletely out.. Also drop the starter. If all 3 of these ar out of the way it gives you a lot more room to work in.
Old 10-29-2006, 06:34 AM
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oh sure, after i start the job...lol

i did a search, the stickies never came up =P

i'll be pissed if i find out something as silly as a swivel would have allowed me to do the mount on the DS without removing the pedastal
Old 10-29-2006, 07:51 AM
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i'll be pissed if i find out something as silly as a swivel would have allowed me to do the mount on the DS without removing the pedastal [/QUOTE]
Yes the right swivel allows you to get the bolts out without having to remove the pedestal. It was a PITA even with the swivel but was able to get them out.
Old 08-29-2009, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Fedge
oh sure, after i start the job...lol

i did a search, the stickies never came up =P

i'll be pissed if i find out something as silly as a swivel would have allowed me to do the mount on the DS without removing the pedastal
Wow same here. Stickies need to show up in searches IMO.
Old 08-29-2009, 12:52 PM
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Figures
Old 08-29-2009, 08:50 PM
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i'm in the process of putting my LTs and poly mounts in. got the old exhaust off in about an hour, spent another 4-5 hours getting the driver side motor mount out and back in. i pulled the pedestal completely out and now i can't get it to line back up to bolt it on. it's only about 3/4 of an inch off so i'm gonna try a two pound sledge to see if i can persuade it into position. anyone have an easier way before i try that tomorrow?
Old 08-31-2009, 07:59 AM
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I also did mine while installing my LTs and I did the pedestal removal method which turned out to be pretty easy. I didn't remove the A/C compressror, alternator, or the starter, and the hardest part was getting the driver's side clamshell apart once it was on the bench. Once the exhaust was off supported the motor with a jack and piece of wood. I started on the passenger side and loosened all the bolts (big 18mm, 4 13mm on the block and 15mm on the k-member) and then removed the 13 and 15mm bolts (ratchet wrenches and swivels help). I jacked up the motor a couple inches and wrangled out the whole pedestal/motor mount combo (I had to roll it and let it come out motor mount first). Remove the 18mm bolt on the bench, separate the clamshell and install the poly, and then reinstall. During the reinstall I got the 13mm mounts on the motor first and then lowered it until I got the 15mm started. Luckily I never had to pry or wrestle the motor into position. I repeated the same on the driver's side and only had to work with the jack and pry bar a little to get a couple of the 15mm bolts to start.



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