stone4779

iTrader: (2)

I finally got around to installing my cam Friday...springs were broken in Saturday night...

I was wondering if you guys with extensive cam knowledge/experience could help me pick what my rev limiter should be at...and maybe analyze my cam...if you feel so inclined..

I forgot to ask the shop I bought it from about the limiter...but I noticed the TR224 as "rated" for 1700-6600 rpms...and a lot of guys set it at 6700-6800...

Im going to post the specifics, too...so here is what the cam card specs say, although I didnt have it checked...I installed it straight up and no slack in the chain...34K miles, had it since 24K..mods in sig....later will add LS6 intake, stat, pulley, better TB, and better MAF..but for now this is what Im working with, but thats the plan ahead...

Its on an XER lobe...

226/226 .585/.585 112 LSA 109 ICL...

276/272 @ .006...

Valve Timing @ .050:

INT: 5 BTOC 43 ABOC
EXH: 45 BBDC 1 ATOC

Lobe lift .3476/.3430

Am I missing something? and is it normal for the valve to close 1 ATDC for a cam this size? Please give me a detailed analysis if you would

I can probably follow most of what your saying lol..

My main question is, what should I set my limiter at? And where should peak HP/TQ come in if you have any idea...

Is there anything specific I should let my tuner know before he proceeds?

And in general, how well do you think this will perform with my current setup once tuned, etc?
Should I add something else, did I do OK in picking it?

Its sortof a daliy driver right now, and will be a full blown daily driver come my relocation time next week, and will be for a little while, untill I get a deticated D/D to take the throne from this one...then it's pretty much a Sunday driver/track car...

Runs greaaat now on the I ~suspect the stock tune...runs that well!
Only tries to die when cold without A/C on or if AC is on and it's warming up...Once it gets fully hot its fine...but let it cool for a few mins and it takes about 30 seconds of holding it there if I crank it with A/C is on.

Going to adjust my idle set screw once we hook it up to the scanner...

Shoot me!

Thanks a bundle guys...if it wasnt for this and a few other boards I'd have spent a bunch of $$ figuring out my combo....

-Chris

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Set the limiter @6,900 so you wont worry about the engine bouncing off of it up top. Get a shift light. The stock tach climbs a bit slow and you might be revved higher than you think. Also, don't buy the aftermarket maf. Stock ones don't lean out the mixture and are good for 500hp, Cheaper too.

technical

Where's the dyno graph? That'll tell you where to put it.

Keenov

iTrader: (5)

That will tell you where would be a good place to shift. Either that or it will tell you where to set your shift light. I wouldn't want to bounce of the rev limiter at the peak.

I would set the rev limiter at 6900 as stated above. Get a shift light and set that off of the dyno sheet. After that, take it to the track and bring it to certain RPM and see what you get your best times shifting at. Then lower/raise the shift light to the appropriate RPM.

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I was just wondering what would be a good idea, because I had forgotten to ask th shop I bought the cam from...

About the MAF, I finally found a decent tuner, and he can modify the MAF tables to make them more accurate. The one I have is ported/polished but not a 100% job so I'd rather just chunk it and get like a factory 85mm from a Z06 and copy the MAF table from it into my PCM & have him tweak it to make it more accurate...

Thanks guys, I just wasnt sure if I should go with 6800 or not...

Really think I should go that high? Lol highest I ever been is the stock 6200, etc..

Know anyone running that kind of rpm on the stock rod bolts?

BTW the car is being tuned on the street...and the dyno is going to be in like 2 weeks, so I dont know what my peaks are going to be yet...thats why I wanted to ask just in case someone had a good idea...

Im thinking 6600HP, 4700 TQ, I dunno....Im pretty sure on the HP peak...its gonna be up there....but the torque is what I really wanna know....

Thanks

technical

So if the dyno graph shows valve float at 6800 you'll still set it at 6900? Just a thought.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Didn't consider valve float. Took for granted that the springs installed would be sufficient. Just that if you're planning to run 6,700 shift point, set the limiter high enough so you're very unlikely to hit it unless you completely miss a shift.

technical

Yup. Decide where you're going to shift first...according to the graph. Then give yourself a little room.

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

I figured shift at 6700, but no dyno to know for sure yet...

I have dual springs good to .650 so the valve float wont be an issue for me...

Im just trying to get an idea of what to set it at for now, then after the dyno, I can send my PCM to my new bud, and he can raise/lower it to where it really needs to be...

So it looks like 6900 for cushion...but first time out, shift around 6700-6750 and go from there & see what works best at the track...if I dont need to go there, I'll lower the limiter back down...

Definately gonna need a shift light now.... Never ever thought I'd need one lol

Thanks guys...I'll let you know how it goes..

-Chris

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah, I dont *plan* on accidentally hitting the limiter, but its very bad isnt it at those rpms?

Lol my '03 Civic would do it all day but those poor little rods/rod bolts only had to take like 140 HP lol ~crank And much lighter pistons/rods/etc...very small pistons

And should I change my rod bolts to ARPs asap, or can it wait untill April or May?

technical

I'd refrain from beating the snot out of the engine until you've had it tuned.
Rod bolts are good especially if you're getting past the 450rwhp mark. Then they start to look like a better idea everyday.

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

Na I've only took it to 6200 like three times since I got it broken in..

Not really gonna have any chance to drive it untill April anyways...then it dyno, retune if necessary, and ROD BOLTS!

Im not going to be able to spray it without the new bolts anyways...so may as well get it over with to take that out of the equation...

What are the stock rods good to? should I be worried about my setup & a 100 shot once I get the rod bolts?

Cool thanks a ton guys...Now I just gotta get my tune...hopefully early next week...date is supposed to be Monday but things may change...



Like I said, I'll update you guys in April on how she does

-Chris

Cstick

The shop that tuned my car set it at 6500. Said they did not like stock short blocks turning more than that. I played with shift points at the track. I ran the same ET and MPH shifting at 6000 as I did 6400 by my shift light. I did miss a shift once and hit the rev limiter but doubt I would have not hit it if it were 6800 or so. So I am not as concerened with the limiter anymore. My cammed car does gain any more by shifting higher.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

hm, i gotta buddy whoes turnin his to 72-7400 through the traps on stock bottom.

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

What gears do you have?

I would benefit from higher rpms because of my gears...it keeps them up there...so long as I dont go too much higher than the peak HP...

As far as the short block....yes its not good to go over 6500, but the reason is because the stock rod bolts should be replaced with some with a higher tensile strength....the rods/crank/pistons can take it..

I''l be replacing mine with ARP rod bolts next month or so...till then I wont be revving it too high anyways...

Vortech5300

Today we set mine at 6600 rpms. Mine made peak power at 6300 and held it to 6500, at the limiter (6600) it was down 1hp from peak. Held over 400hp from 6000-6600, cam only, stock TB, stock maf, stock bellow pipe, stock pulley. Mine is a 99 so I was concerned about the rod bolts so I didn't want to rev it to 6800 to get the hp, luckily I didn't have to. This is with a Magic Stick

blkZ28spt

My guess is that it won't last forever doing that. Just a guess.

One day it might go . Or maybe it will die off with time.....in any case that is definately beyond what is considered *safe* for a SBE.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

by the time that happens hell havea 422

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

It can probably take it so long as he has ARP rod bolts(I hope ) & its a good motor, but if it were mine, and I desired to go high as hell, I'd pick a cam peaking at 7 and set it at 7200, but thats extreme for me...no higher. and even then everything has to be just right & you have to know how to drive...your still on borrowed time...