How much HP can stock internals handle?
03-29-2005, 09:58 AM
#3
hmm it really all depends on what you do...i mean you can run race gas and get away with more...but lets just say typically you can run about 600rwhp on a stock internal, 93 octane, fuel upgrades and a tune...make SURE YOU GET A TUNE...otherwise you might not be driving it long...this is general so don't go and do it and it blow up and blame me...you may be able to run more or less..i'm just giving a guidline since there is really no set limit...
03-29-2005, 01:10 PM
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What about 450-500rwhp? Is the block, pistons and other internals fine at that power level? Asking b/c installing a H/C pakage that will put me at about 430rwhp and possibly might eventually add like a small 75 shot on top....
03-29-2005, 01:31 PM
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you can put a 150 or a lil larger on it and itll take it... its the tune that counts most. investing in rods and pistons might actually not be a bad idea tho.
03-29-2005, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by KB99WS6
What about 450-500rwhp? Is the block, pistons and other internals fine at that power level? Asking b/c installing a H/C pakage that will put me at about 430rwhp and possibly might eventually add like a small 75 shot on top....
Block will be fine. Most likely, so will the internals @ that power level. I think if you push it much more than that, you'll want to upgrade, not because you have to, but to keep from junking the block in case you decide to punch a rod.
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03-30-2005, 05:00 PM
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I`ve got H/C and a 150 wet shot. Car has been good for 3 years. Get it done right, fuel, tune, and parts . These LS1`s are tough for stock. I don`t spray all the time but I`ve got over 600rwhp on spray with A4. She is one mean mother! See my Sig!
beardws6, what do u have done to ur tranny to hold that power
03-30-2005, 06:13 PM
#12
At the flywheel I've probably made 650hp on a 150 shot (575/620 at the wheels M6)
I've made 50 passes at that level shift @ around 7k.
I have 500 passes shifting the car @ 7k on stock rod bolts.
My motor is still fine and runs strong.
The right tune helps ALOT I figure.
I've made 50 passes at that level shift @ around 7k.
I have 500 passes shifting the car @ 7k on stock rod bolts.
My motor is still fine and runs strong.
The right tune helps ALOT I figure.
03-30-2005, 06:17 PM
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beard and 01-Z,
WOW, those are some serious testimonials that these motors are damn tough in stock form if tuned properly which IMO should be a given. thanks guys, great info.
WOW, those are some serious testimonials that these motors are damn tough in stock form if tuned properly which IMO should be a given. thanks guys, great info.
03-30-2005, 07:14 PM
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i would say anyting under 500 is safe. I have always been told that any thing over 500 is the breaking point. Not saying that it wont last i am just saying that it becomes a ticking time bomb. It is not if it will go but when.
03-30-2005, 07:59 PM
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I think its an RPM thing not a HP thing.
I don't think I would take a stock bottom end over 7000 rpm. Some of these big HP guys are running pretty big cams that require them to spin the motor past 6800 rpm. The stock rod bolts just can't take the stress past that.
Stay under 6600 rpm and you can do make all the power you want on a stock bottom end with power adders or H/C set ups.
I don't think I would take a stock bottom end over 7000 rpm. Some of these big HP guys are running pretty big cams that require them to spin the motor past 6800 rpm. The stock rod bolts just can't take the stress past that.
Stay under 6600 rpm and you can do make all the power you want on a stock bottom end with power adders or H/C set ups.
03-30-2005, 08:16 PM
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Mine spins to 6800, and my pills for spray are 3200-6000rpms. My tranny was rebuilt by Century Trans in houston. MTI really likes them. When I go with my 408 iron and spray 250 I will go differant. I love my set-up!
03-31-2005, 12:33 AM
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I'd agree to hangin in the 500 area and under 6800-7000. Much more and it'll just be a matter of time. You could probably beat the hell out of 450 hp and last a long time. You could get lucky with 600 for a while if the orig engine build was decent. When you start pushing high numbers then any little flaw will increase it's potential of reeking havoc. Some tight spots could be in the crank assembly or whatever, so i'd have the tolerances tightened up before moving over 500 very far. So you may as well upgrade the bottom at that time. I'd rather have complete faith by knowing what's down there than crossing my fingers.