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Old 04-02-2005, 09:15 PM
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Default Opinions on Setup

FM 14 on a 114 (maybe FM 13 depending on Allan)
TEA 1.5 Heads
Pace Setter LT's
TSP Y Pipe (haven't decided if I should put 2 cutouts in the y pipe or not)
Fast 90 Intake/Nick Williams TB
Possibly the 85 mm lid/maf setup
3:73 gears/girdle (no 12 bolt b/c don't drag the car)
4000 or 4400 stall depending on what FMS has to say
Ported Oil Pump
Double Roller Timing Chain
New rods (figure may as well)

Car just turned 30,000 miles--am I leaving out anything?
What kind of gasket/bolt kit would you suggest? I don't need ARP studs/bolts if I am not going to rev to 7000/Nitrous/FI, correct?
Old 04-02-2005, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneSS
FM 14 on a 114 (maybe FM 13 depending on Allan)
TEA 1.5 Heads
Pace Setter LT's
TSP Y Pipe (haven't decided if I should put 2 cutouts in the y pipe or not)
Fast 90 Intake/Nick Williams TB
Possibly the 85 mm lid/maf setup
3:73 gears/girdle (no 12 bolt b/c don't drag the car)
4000 or 4400 stall depending on what FMS has to say
Ported Oil Pump
Double Roller Timing Chain
New rods (figure may as well)

Car just turned 30,000 miles--am I leaving out anything?
What kind of gasket/bolt kit would you suggest? I don't need ARP studs/bolts if I am not going to rev to 7000/Nitrous/FI, correct?

Great combo IMO.

Couple things:
1. I haven't seen anything to convince me that 2 cutouts in the y-pipe are worth it. Just get an ORY and put one cutout in the I-pipe.
2. You can still break the 10 bolt on the street with that much power.
3. I'm not sure that replacing the rods is really worth the hassle. Maybe others can comment on this. Maybe new rod "bolts" since you have a '98 and they aren't as good.
4. You are going to need suspension upgrades, so put that in the budget.

Hopefully this helps and others can help you out some more.
Old 04-02-2005, 09:39 PM
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Figure in a PCM tune as well. I broke a 10 bolt rear in a car with only 300 hp at the flywheel, on street tires.
Old 04-02-2005, 09:42 PM
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Thanks for the input! Been debating of if the 85 mm maf/ lid induction mods would be a good investment along w/ the dual cutouts. Already have one in the I pipe now. I just cannot bring myself to spend the money on the 12 bolt at this point--would rather put it toward some suspension to just make the car handle better as it will probably never see the strip. The actual rods were replaced 7k ago, but they are not that expensive--thinking more along the line of head bolts and such. I also own HPTuners, and have someone to tune the car at a local dyno.
Old 04-02-2005, 11:21 PM
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300 on street tires--that must have been a heck of a launch!
Old 04-03-2005, 09:12 AM
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Any other opinons?
Old 04-06-2005, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BoneSS
300 on street tires--that must have been a heck of a launch!
I spun through a small puddle of water that was concelling a deep pot hole - that's all it took to snap the pinion gear right off the shaft and through the housing; quite an intesting sight in the rear view mirror to see it rolling away leaving a trail of oil! That's why I run a 9 inch now.
Old 04-06-2005, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BoneSS
FM 14 on a 114 (maybe FM 13 depending on Allan)
TEA 1.5 Heads
Pace Setter LT's
TSP Y Pipe (haven't decided if I should put 2 cutouts in the y pipe or not)
Fast 90 Intake/Nick Williams TB
Possibly the 85 mm lid/maf setup
3:73 gears/girdle (no 12 bolt b/c don't drag the car)
4000 or 4400 stall depending on what FMS has to say
Ported Oil Pump
Double Roller Timing Chain
New rods (figure may as well)

Car just turned 30,000 miles--am I leaving out anything?
What kind of gasket/bolt kit would you suggest? I don't need ARP studs/bolts if I am not going to rev to 7000/Nitrous/FI, correct?


Can i ask what your goals are? what your driving habits are with the car? I like your pick with the Heads, but if your going to be doing new rods, do some new pistons at the same time with valve reliefs for that big Cam with the 5.3 Heads. Then you can mill them a bit to get more compression. I think with the 3.73 gears the F13 might be better for you. My opinion. This Alan will be able to help you with more. I personally like to get the most from the Heads to go with as small a cam as possible to meet my goals. I learned this lesson from my last car. Also, I noticed you wanted to spend the 1,200.00 dollars on the 90/90 set up to get that extra 10/10 from your set up. Personally, i would go with Stainless Steel Headers instead of the Pace Setters and just get a ported Stock TB for now. Reason being is you can always upgrade to the 90/90 later..but if you buy the cheap headers, they will Rust eventually and you will end up replacing them with Stainless later down the road if you keep the car.
Old 04-06-2005, 05:27 AM
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Goals for the car are just a fun street car. If I make it to the track--I know the rear would be in danger on DR's--I would want low 11's--high 10's by an act of God! Kind of bored w/ full bolt on/stall/cam car now. I have a LS6 w/ Ported TB now, so I am still going back and forth on the 90/90 setup--TEA said I would expect 15 rwhp across the board, but it would be up to me if I go with it. I went w/ the above listed heads w/ a 228/230/571/573 on a 112 b/c TEA said that was what they had found had been the best combo w/ these heads which will be milled 0.010. I asked them about the FM13 and FM14, and after talking w/ them, went w/ the listed off the shelf Comp. The rods were replaced 7k ago, so I am leaving them alone also. I think I will be going w/ a 4200/2.35 str stall also. The cam will peak around 6200. Thanks for the suggestion on the headers--something to consider!




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