BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

I searched but didnt come up with a concrete answer. I've seen a few sets of underdrive pullies on some of the sponsors sites. They claim 10hp.

Now, 10hp at the wheels is a good bang for the buck mod for something in the neighborhood of $200. Esp if you add it to a ported TB that usually sees 7hp gains for $75. That would nearly be 2 tenths off the 1320 time right?

I just want to see some concrete evidence or first hand experience with these mods.

TIA
Brandon

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I have proof. Search for ASP with my name and you should see my graph.

I gained in all 3 areas - HP, ET, and MPH

I saw 10 hp gain throught the RPM range; shaved a 10th off my 1320 time and gained a MPH so it's definately proven and worthwhile to do.

BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

Good info. Is there any negative effects on the car? Idle voltage, power steering harder, etc.

Thanks again
Brandon

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Nope. I had a plug in cigarette lighter and saw no adverse effects afterwards. Voltage is still 13.2

setxws6

I don't have any dyno results for you. But unlike a catback or lid, you will notice this mod the moment you drive down the road. I sure did. It's worth it so just DO IT!

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

I love my ASP. three years now, still works great.

BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

OK now these 10hp gains... are these attained with just the crank pulley or should I invest in all available pullies? I know alt is available but cant remember if any others are.

Thanks!

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

First of all I could be wrong but I think if you put the all the after market pulleys on, the UD pulley itself will be less effective. I think they made the other pulleys for people who might have had problems with their alternator not charging or not enough steering assist.

setxws6

Dude, your an M6, no idle problems with alt. Get the crank pulley and have fun.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Search button.......


Gotta look harder, theres plenty of info out there. I had issues with charging that I fixed by charging the battery over night. Plenty of info out there.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Just the lower.....



360hp/376ft.lbs (BLUE) with all the bolts ons versus 351hp/365ft.lbs (RED) without the pulley. I'm happy that the ASP was good for 9-10hp since it was my last bolt-on.

2kpewterws6

so all that is really necessary is to buy the one crank pulley?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

yep. add new crank bolt, and two new belts. plus if you will be installing it you will need a puller and a longer bolt/installer rod

Stone0fFire

i read that contrary to internet belief,
the crank bolt is not a torque-to-yield bolt,
so you can reuse it
but you have to use loc tite on the tip and near the base of the bolt.

anyone near los angeles that can help me install mine?
ive had it for almost a fricken year.
asp crank and alternator

Another_User

Even if it is not a torque to yield bolt, you are much better off replacing it. It is one of those bolts you really don't want to take chances with...kind of like head bolts. It is one of those good mods that will actually let you recover some low-end power that is lost from other mods, and it is nice that all the power is not just in the top rpms where your car does not normally (well...some cars) see on the street. I have never seen any negative effects. On a tuned cammed car I would not worry about it at all. If you bump your rpms up even 100 rpms to compensate for the cam, then you are already increasing how fast you are spinning all your accessories at idle 12+%, and that is half what you lost for spinning your alternate, etc anyways. It is definitely a worthwhile mod.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

SDPC, get in contact with K. Jones the bolt is like freaking 7 dollars shipped. You can ethier spend the 7 bucks for a new bolt, or 4 grand for a new moter when your pulley spins off at 80 mph on the highway. Up to you

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

Damn! my car didnt come with a (moter).

God Forgives I Dont