Stripped allen head bolt
04-15-2005, 09:31 PM
#5
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The bolt is actually not even on my car, its on the mnotorcycle im tryin' to fix. Its got a rounded head like a machine screw so vice grips are out. I was gonna try the dremel thing but that took forever last time and I just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas.
04-15-2005, 09:55 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 9silverbird8
Just like it says. Anyone got any ideas for removing that sucker?
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
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04-16-2005, 01:18 PM
#9
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http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/...1038&catId=116
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
04-16-2005, 03:49 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by DynoDR
How about a "twist socket"?
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
best tool I bought off the matco lady
Originally Posted by tuff
If you had a welder you could weld a nut over the stud and weld through the nut to the stud like a plug weld.
04-16-2005, 05:14 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by ta12sec
http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/...1038&catId=116
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
04-16-2005, 09:53 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by ta12sec
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
Give me a hex head any day of the week.
08-14-2012, 11:03 PM
#14
Please help!!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jdoyle; 08-14-2012 at 11:32 PM.
08-16-2012, 10:11 AM
#16
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Every motorcycle owner ought to have a hand impact driver.
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
08-16-2012, 01:04 PM
#18
Every motorcycle owner ought to have a hand impact driver.
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
The nature of combining steel fastener and aluminum, over time, vibration, expansion, contraction and galvanic action will ended up with difficulty in fastener removal.
I have SnapOn, IMO, use good tools to avoid the painfull damage controls!
08-17-2012, 01:02 PM
#19
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The cool thing about the hand tool is that you're actually
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
08-17-2012, 02:33 PM
#20
The cool thing about the hand tool is that you're actually
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
Not trying to be argumentive, TIA!!
