formula87350

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys I already searched and didn't find what I need so any help will be greatly appreciated.

Today I went to the dyno and when I ran with the N2O the lean condition went from bad to worse. It stayed lean way after activation so I think the fuel pump had plenty of time to catch up. It was so bad the guy had to bail on the run to save my motor. Any ideas? I am running the single nozzle NX kit after the MAF. I bought it used so do you think I should get the solenoids rebuilt?

Another thing: when I run the nitrous my Autometer A/F gauge reads rich. I don't know what it showed that time because I was obviously not in the car but how accurate are these? Are they essentially worthless and I should get a wideband?

Sorry for all the questions but like I said, any help is greatly appreciated.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

Your fuel pump might be going bad, did the A/F look ok on motor? I would swap a 255 in-tank pump just to be safe.

The autometer gauge is as accurate as the stock O2's are. Not nearly as good as a wideband, but I would imagine that a 17.8:1 would show up red!

formula87350

iTrader: (6)

On motor I think the a/f was around 12-13/1 on the stock tune. I am hoping it's the fuel pump because I was planning on getting a new one anyway.

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

Check to make sure you have the correct jets and that they aren't reversed, fuel jet where the nitrous jet goes and vice versa.

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

you ran lean n/a and still sprayed it knowing it was lean n/a... if so that is pure genius

formula87350

iTrader: (6)

Apparently you have different standards of what is lean and what's not. I ran 12-13/1 or somewhere around there on motor which was rich. 17.8/1 is lean not 12-13/1. So who is the genuis?

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

i read the first post and it was implied that it was lean n/a and then you still sprayed knowing it was lean i didn't read past the first post, but i just did and saw it was 12-13.1 on the motor. that is still lean for a nitrous car, you want it richer than that if your going to spray, that is fine if you are n/a. do you have a fpss? it sounds to me like you are either dropping fuel pressure or its jetted wrong

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

Test the fuel solenoid and make sure it is working - hold the throttle above the window switch setting (if you have one) and have someone blip the WOT momentary switch - if the engines bogs slightly from the extra shot of fuel, it is working. If it is working, the next thing to check would be fuel pressure - do you know what the pressure is at all?

As far as the jets being switched, I doubt it - the nitrous is bigger than the fuel on most kits, so if they are switched, it would be rich. Unless you just plain have the wrong jets in it. You said you bought it used, did you verify the jets are the ones NX specifies for the shot you want?

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Brett before you recommend that to test it, tell him to unplug his nitrous solenoid and turn bottle off unhook line!

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

single nozzle nx kit? is that considered a wet or dry? also where are you pulling your fuel from? and if it's off the rail did you yank out your shrader valve or put in that special valve that pushs it in so you dont have to yank it?

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

I guess I assumed if I said "test the fuel soleniod" and "the engine bogs slightly from the extra shot of fuel" that he would do it with the bottle unhooked - maybe that was a bad assumption. You don't have to unhook the nitrous solenoid if you have the bottle unhooked.

And BTW - the TNT install instructions have you test the entire system with the bottle hooked up and turned on just like I said - raise it above 3,000 and have someone blip the WOT switch - only with the bottle hooked up the rpms go up instead of bogging the engine with the extra fuel.

Why is it every time I post something, you go out of your way to try to make me look bad or stupid

formula87350

iTrader: (6)

Okay I get what you are saying. I was just a bit upset because I don't want to have to deal with it. I do have a fpss and that is why I was kinda confused because I figured it should have shut everything down if it went that lean.

To black02ws6: I tested the fuel solenoid today and it was fine. I do have the window switch and tested it with the fuel pump off and on. First I bypassed the window switch and tested just the fuel solenoid and it was fine. Then I rewired everything and tested it in the driveway and the a/f gauge went 4 into the rich side instead of just two. So I took it on the street tested it again and got the same results. All of these were with the bottle turned off. I have not tried the N2O again because I am scared. I think maybe something freak just happened but am not willing to take the chance. So tomorrow I will be ordering a pump to put my mind at ease. Also, I did change the jets because it was jetted for a 75 and I changed it to 100 and those were brand new jets.

Do any of you think this may have happened because I have not cut back the timing at all? This is the only thing I can think of because everything else seems to be working fine, but I know the wideband at the dyno doesn't lie so I remain stumped and hope a new pump will fix it.

formula87350

iTrader: (6)

I did tap into the rail and took out my schrader valve, but didn't know I needed to do anything else but that. Do you know where I can get this special valve?

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

if you pulled the shrader valve you don't need the special adapter. that adapter is only if you keep the shrader valve in place, since you removed it from yours you don't need that special adapter

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Well we dont want to call anyone stupid, but Ive seen people try some rediculous/stupid stuff without thinking about it, personally made recommendations to people knowing what not to do and assuming they did too, etc etc. TNT also tells everyone heres a 150 shot and everyone thinks ok cool I can rock on it on my stock bottom end and fuel system like everyone else, but I wouldnt listen to them on that

That and because you get all huffy about stupid things and occasionally I check and see when youll get over it.

Is it a brand new kit or used noids?

Turo

iTrader: (23)

Why don't you post up the n20/fuel jets taht you are using, that way people here with the same kit can verify that you are jetting correctly. Just an idea, good luck!

David@TNT

Im sorry, but no 1 "here's" will tell you that its ok to run 150hp on a stock fuel system.. I dont know where you got that idea but please quote a post where I/we have said that to be ok.. WE HAVE ALLWAYS reccomended a fuel pump upgrade for most 100hp application and definately a 150hp setting.. Please get your facts straight before quoting what other people say or have said..

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

I wasnt saying that you guys say the fuel system is up to the task, I did a poor job of wording that. You state that x kit is a "150 shot", and how you define it is, same way as NOS defines theirs as a "150 shot" Somewhere in the translation it gets lost that if it makes more then 180 hp to the wheels on the 150 shot, then fueling requirements will be more.

The THEM on that statement was those that think they should setup their fuel system and tune based off what the other internet warriors did with their 150 dry shot say, on their 150 wet TNT kit - although we know they routinely deliver 30 40 50 hp more then advertised, even to the wheels. The guys like us that have been around this stuff for a few years know as a general a NOS 150, NX 125, and TNT 100 deliver roughly the same nitrous/rearwheel horsepower

You guys do exactly what you need to do, its up to the consumer to educate themselves on the rest of the nitrous setup. When average guy see the 150 jets in the kit, he approaches it like everyone elses and posts what do I do for my "150 shot"

NXJeremy

Formula87350- Here's the jetting for your system:
HP N2O Fuel
50 35 18
75 41 22
100 52 28 (you could use a 31 to help richen it up)
150 62 33

Other things to look at are bottle pressure (too little can cause lean condition), checking the jets for clogs as well as the hoses. Also, I would suggest going to the next jetting lower and testing for the lean condition instead of going up.