Water Wetter question................
04-24-2005, 08:45 AM
#1
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Water Wetter question................ I live in south Florida so the temps never get too cold. But does one bottle of the Red Line water wetter that I have be enough to lubricate things?
What if I put a half jug of Dextcool in there with it, will it still run cooler than a normal water/Dextcool mix or does the water wetter need to be water and the one bottle of water wetter alone?
Thanks.
What if I put a half jug of Dextcool in there with it, will it still run cooler than a normal water/Dextcool mix or does the water wetter need to be water and the one bottle of water wetter alone?
Thanks.
04-24-2005, 03:30 PM
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Usually when I see some of my friends run water wetter they just drain the radiator and fill it back up with distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter. I did it one year and it seemed to drop temperatures a few degrees on real real hot day, especially when your driving hard. Who knows though it could be just the effect from the water alone, but yes definitely add the water wetter as that will lube and protect everything with the extra water. I would recommend the 2 bottles. Me personally I dont ever think I will use water wetter again unless I have a full out race car. A 160 or 180 stat with the fans set should be plenty on the street. Good Luck WOW I just realized you have a big *** stroker, you may want to run the water and water wetter.
04-24-2005, 05:15 PM
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Here is the deal. Coolant sucks *** at dissipating heat. If it was any good at dissipating heat you would not need to add water. Coolant is there to make sure your cooling system does not freeze, because as we know frozen water follows it's own rule and expands (go figure), thus destroying every engine component it freezes in. Water wetter is a super-coolant, designed for dissipating heat. As far as I know it is not intended as a substitute for antifreeze. Now if you live in some god-forsaken place that NEVER sees freezing temps, that is awesome. I have never been to one. Most places freeze at least sometimes. Now, a lot of people use 50/50 antifreeze/water, you can actually add more water, like 60/40 or so on, depending on how cold it gets where you live. I run something like 60/40 and water wetter myself. Water wetter works excellent with a water and coolant mix. Ideally it runs the best with straight water, but unless you want to drain all your coolant out every season it is not a good idea for a daily driver. The main bonus from water wetter is it helps prevent "hot spots" in your heads and engine that could cause detonation and/or engine damage. Hope that helps.
04-24-2005, 05:56 PM
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From: http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../bldef-033.htm
"Antifreeze protects the cooling system against both freezing and boiling over. When used at normal strength (50% antifreeze, 50% water), it can lower the freezing point of the coolant to -34 degrees F. and raise its boiling temperature to 276 degrees F. Never use straight antifreeze in a cooling system. Always mix it with at least 50% water. Most antifreeze is 95% ethylene glycol (EG). The only differences between brands of antifreeze are the type and/or quantity of anti-corrosion additives used. Ethylene glycol never wears out but the corrosion inhibitors do. That's why antifreeze should be changed every two years (except for long life antifreezes, which have special additive packages that allow them to go up to 5 years/150,000 miles between changes)."
From http://e30m3performance.com/myths/mo...ter_wetter.htm
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job. An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in your cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages."
There's more if you care to look.
"Antifreeze protects the cooling system against both freezing and boiling over. When used at normal strength (50% antifreeze, 50% water), it can lower the freezing point of the coolant to -34 degrees F. and raise its boiling temperature to 276 degrees F. Never use straight antifreeze in a cooling system. Always mix it with at least 50% water. Most antifreeze is 95% ethylene glycol (EG). The only differences between brands of antifreeze are the type and/or quantity of anti-corrosion additives used. Ethylene glycol never wears out but the corrosion inhibitors do. That's why antifreeze should be changed every two years (except for long life antifreezes, which have special additive packages that allow them to go up to 5 years/150,000 miles between changes)."
From http://e30m3performance.com/myths/mo...ter_wetter.htm
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job. An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in your cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages."
There's more if you care to look.
04-24-2005, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Incredible
From: http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../bldef-033.htm
"Antifreeze protects the cooling system against both freezing and boiling over. When used at normal strength (50% antifreeze, 50% water), it can lower the freezing point of the coolant to -34 degrees F. and raise its boiling temperature to 276 degrees F. Never use straight antifreeze in a cooling system. Always mix it with at least 50% water. Most antifreeze is 95% ethylene glycol (EG). The only differences between brands of antifreeze are the type and/or quantity of anti-corrosion additives used. Ethylene glycol never wears out but the corrosion inhibitors do. That's why antifreeze should be changed every two years (except for long life antifreezes, which have special additive packages that allow them to go up to 5 years/150,000 miles between changes)."
From http://e30m3performance.com/myths/mo...ter_wetter.htm
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job. An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in your cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages."
There's more if you care to look.
"Antifreeze protects the cooling system against both freezing and boiling over. When used at normal strength (50% antifreeze, 50% water), it can lower the freezing point of the coolant to -34 degrees F. and raise its boiling temperature to 276 degrees F. Never use straight antifreeze in a cooling system. Always mix it with at least 50% water. Most antifreeze is 95% ethylene glycol (EG). The only differences between brands of antifreeze are the type and/or quantity of anti-corrosion additives used. Ethylene glycol never wears out but the corrosion inhibitors do. That's why antifreeze should be changed every two years (except for long life antifreezes, which have special additive packages that allow them to go up to 5 years/150,000 miles between changes)."
From http://e30m3performance.com/myths/mo...ter_wetter.htm
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job. An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in your cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages."
There's more if you care to look.
04-24-2005, 06:42 PM
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Thanks fellers, I'll do the change tomorrow.
80% water
20% Coolant
1 bottle of water wetter
Also, if I open the drain and let everything drain out of the radiator, how do I get the water/coolant out of the engine?
Or should I just pour the water wetter in the radiator and then fill the rest with water and call it GOOD?
Thanks.
80% water
20% Coolant
1 bottle of water wetter
Also, if I open the drain and let everything drain out of the radiator, how do I get the water/coolant out of the engine?
Or should I just pour the water wetter in the radiator and then fill the rest with water and call it GOOD?
Thanks.
