Going to need alot of help on this one
05-01-2005, 07:37 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Going to need alot of help on this one I have a 98 Pontiac Trans Am with a blown motor (lack of oil). I am purchasing a bare LS6 block that has been race prepped and my goal is to be around 400-450 hp without making it a stroker motor. This car will be daily driven and still has stock 10-bolt rear. It will occasionally see the track, but mostly street. What will it take to reach my goal?
What parts can i use from my LS1?
How much would assembly of the bottom end cost?
If i can use the heads from my LS1 should I port them?
Cam recommendations?
Valvetrain recommendations?
Basically help all around....cause im sittin here like
All help would be greatly appreciated
What parts can i use from my LS1?
How much would assembly of the bottom end cost?
If i can use the heads from my LS1 should I port them?
Cam recommendations?
Valvetrain recommendations?
Basically help all around....cause im sittin here like
All help would be greatly appreciated
05-01-2005, 07:50 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Venice, Ca
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can reuse the oil pan, front and rear covers, crank and sensors. I would swap to a ls6 valley cover for 45 dollars. Bump up the compression to about 11.1-1, get a set of 205 afr heads and a medium size cam. Top it off with a fast 90 intake or a carb style intake drilled for efi with an elbow and 90mm tb. That should easily get you well over 400 rwhp. Of course you will need a ported oil pump with a new pick up oring, timing chain, and studs for the mains and heads would be good also.
05-02-2005, 01:26 AM
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Venice, Ca
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not necessary, but you would pick up some power from a fast 90mm combo or carb style intake. It just depends on whether the 15-20 rwhp is worth the expense.
05-02-2005, 01:47 AM
#7
TR224 is a fine cam (I used to have one,) but you won't make 450 hp at the rear wheels with it. You need to go a lot bigger. Also, a bigger cam would take better advantage of a 90 mm TB. You realize you will need headers, a very good flowing exhaust, and all the bolt ons as well. Why run this motor with EGR? If it is a M6 car, you will need a better clutch and rearend as well if you plan to go to the track with 450 rwhp.
Trending Topics
05-02-2005, 05:32 AM
#8
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All the power will be going through and A4 which will be rebuilt. I am also upgrading my posi to a newer unit and getting the MOSER axles. I want to go with hooker headers, but i will settle for flowtech or pacesetters with 3in Y-pipe with a 3in E-Cutout and hooker catback. Ill look into the fast 90mm combo.
Now to the internals. I want to use LS1 pistons for now since I'm short on the green, I shouldn't have any problems, I just have to watch out for clearance issues. but I have found 6.0L pistons and rods that are new. I was wondering what it would take for the 6.0L pistons to work on the LS6 block (race prepped)?, but one other is question, If i have all my internals balanced, would i be able to install them myself? or should I leave that in the hands of a shop and just pay them?
Now to the internals. I want to use LS1 pistons for now since I'm short on the green, I shouldn't have any problems, I just have to watch out for clearance issues. but I have found 6.0L pistons and rods that are new. I was wondering what it would take for the 6.0L pistons to work on the LS6 block (race prepped)?, but one other is question, If i have all my internals balanced, would i be able to install them myself? or should I leave that in the hands of a shop and just pay them?
Last edited by PhoenixLS6; 05-02-2005 at 05:39 AM.
05-02-2005, 01:17 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Venice, Ca
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
6.0L block has a 4" bore and a ls6 block is a 3.897" bore. Rods and pistons are not interchangeable. I would spend the money on the short block before buying a 90mm intake. Rods, pistons, rings and bearings will run you around 1200 dollars. If you have no experience building lsx motors I would pay the machine shop to assemble it. There are lots of clearances that need to be correct besides just balancing the rotating assembly. Main and rod bearings, piston to cylinder clearance, crank end play, file fitting the rings, not to mention degreeing the cam. There is a LOT MORE than just putting in parts and torqueing some bolts.
05-02-2005, 05:02 PM
#11
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Race Ready Blocks
That is the exact LS6 block I'm getting.
Race Ready Blocks Include
1. All Of The Options That Are In The Basic Block Prep
2. The Block Is Blue - Printed On Bore Location ( If possible not all block's can be blue - printed )
3. Diamond Honed With Torque Plates
4. CNC Lined Bored
5. Clearance For Stroker Kit
Basic Block Prep Includes
1. Removing of ALL galley and freeze plugs in the block
2. Hot Tanking Blocks Overnight
3. Mag Block For Cracks
4. Torque Main Caps and Check Line Bore
5. Run Block Through Steel Abrator ( blocks come out looking new )
6. Deck Block to 45 Degrees ( Basically A clean up on the deck surface ) Deck Block Plus Or Minus .0002"
7. Bore Block In CNC Machine
8. Hone Block In Diamond Hone Machine
9. Re-Clean Block
10. Install Cam Bearings , Galley Plugs, And Freeze Plugs
Thats it. And I guess ill just stick with stock LS1 internals. And ill definately let a shop assemble it.
That is the exact LS6 block I'm getting.
Race Ready Blocks Include
1. All Of The Options That Are In The Basic Block Prep
2. The Block Is Blue - Printed On Bore Location ( If possible not all block's can be blue - printed )
3. Diamond Honed With Torque Plates
4. CNC Lined Bored
5. Clearance For Stroker Kit
Basic Block Prep Includes
1. Removing of ALL galley and freeze plugs in the block
2. Hot Tanking Blocks Overnight
3. Mag Block For Cracks
4. Torque Main Caps and Check Line Bore
5. Run Block Through Steel Abrator ( blocks come out looking new )
6. Deck Block to 45 Degrees ( Basically A clean up on the deck surface ) Deck Block Plus Or Minus .0002"
7. Bore Block In CNC Machine
8. Hone Block In Diamond Hone Machine
9. Re-Clean Block
10. Install Cam Bearings , Galley Plugs, And Freeze Plugs
Thats it. And I guess ill just stick with stock LS1 internals. And ill definately let a shop assemble it.
05-02-2005, 05:48 PM
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta, Georgia!
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do yourself a favor. Spend the money and upgrade the rod bolts to ARP's and get a set of 2cc notched forged pistons. Find out how much the bore went over and let the piston manf know. Decide now if Nitrous will be used, get the right rings and pistons and have them gapped for the application.
You could always let one of the sponsors supply you a built short block. I bet it's cheaper and it would come with a warrantee.
You could always let one of the sponsors supply you a built short block. I bet it's cheaper and it would come with a warrantee.
05-02-2005, 05:51 PM
#13
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats a good thought, but i want to continue on this path. No Nitrous will be used on this motor. For now it will be N/A and then I will move to a TT set-up. For now i just need a motor up and running that is within my goal of 400-450hp for now
05-03-2005, 09:36 PM
#16
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Gold Country California
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by PhoenixLS6
Also, How much would bottom end assembly run me if purchased all the parts and had a pro balance and assemble it?
Well over 5 grand now and still not finished. Reality sucks. As far as balancing, ask if they do it in house or if they send it out.
05-03-2005, 10:24 PM
#17
This might be a simplistic solution (don't know what budget constranints you're under either) but have you considered an LS6 crate engine, (SDPC price of $7295, has it all but the PCM/wire harness) has a 400 hp rating (crank or rear wheel IDK) then add a 150hp shot of n2o, and then you have a reliable DD, and with the n2o have some extra hp when the situation call for it
Just another option to consider
Just another option to consider
05-04-2005, 05:33 AM
#18
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well considering im going with mostly stock LS1 internals after doing some research, and not purchasing every part brand new and forged. I should be able to pull it off for less. I'm not going for 500+hp NA or boosted yet. So keeping the cost down should be relatively easy. Things that will really cost me are, balancing and assembly, LS6 intake, heads and installation.
