FaSS Blac

My torque converter was unlocking on the NJ Turnpike and on I295, when going 70-85 mph. I thought it might be my trans temp, so I hooked my trans back up to the radiator and removed one cooler (I was running stand alone, with two coolers). Trans seemed to unlock at 150 degs. Tested again with new mods, trans still unlocking at a higher temp now, about 165 degs. Scanner showed engine was running at 170-172 degs when unlock would occure, and would lock back at 180 degs, (Hypertech 160 t-stat). This was the only constant between the two test. I put my factory 195 t-stat back in test on I295 again, converter unlocked. Went to the mall parking lot and smelled trans fluid. Car was soaked with trans fluid!!! Got it home safely, had a couple of pin hole leaks in cooler lines!!! How they got there, I still don't know. Filled trans back up + one quart over, went back out on I295, no unlock!!! Since I put the factory 195 t-stat back in, I have yet to unlock on the highway!!! Engine temp drops to 185-182 on highway in mild 50-60 weather. I went back to stand alone with two coolers again on Sunday because the one cooler + radiator, temps were getting up to 210-225 getting on it!!! Went back on I295 temps down to 135-125, no unlock. Getting on it, temps go up to a sweltering 165-180, and come back down very quickly. This is constant on/off throttle, driving like a maniac. A side note is that since I did that silly SLP Y pipe mod and the factory 195 t-stat, my car feels like it picked up another 20 HP, and has better low end torque!!!!!!!!!! My car likes running lean, 770 mv, no ping, just pull!!!!!!!!!! I think since this engine is all aluminum, it needs a little heat to run right. I think closed loop is right at 176-177 degs. Take this info for what it's worth.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

closed loop enable is arond 100*. At least on 98's it is.

Have you tried this? https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/162767-i-just-replaced-my-torque-converter-now-unlocks-randomly-fix.html
I daily drive my car in the winter, 160* tstat, never had lockup problems.

also, unless the o2's are not reading right 770mv wot is melting stuff lean.

FaSS Blac

I'm talking about engine closed loop temp, not trans temp. My scanner indicated closed loop after engine reached 176-178 degs. Also scanner indicated 770ish mv readings. I just installed a separate O2 sensor in the SLP Y pipe for a Fuel/Air meter. The light bars appeared low, so I thought the O2 sensor wasn't reading right, so I checked it with my scanner. It read 780-770 ish!!!! The car runs great like this. If I was going to juice it, or run a blower, yeah, I would have to richin the mix. It is very difficult to melt stuff n.a., unless you are detonating, which I'm not. I'm getting about 28 Degs timing at WOT and no timing retard. My car was pig rich from the factory. 920ish mv.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

Intresting. every car is different thats for sure. I run around 880 MV at wot.

If your having problems entering closed loop, you can lower your enable temps. My factory ECT closed loop enable is around 100* Try lowering it and see if that helps.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I would not consider .920mv pig rich. It's darn near ideal. .880-.910mv is the good window to run in.

99SSLS1

iTrader: (5)

A misadjusted brake siwtch kept causing mine to unlock.