Bad clutch allready! Shit
#1
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Bad clutch allready! ****
Please tell me it aint true.
Spec II and updated "LS6" hydralics with 4000 miles.
In every gear I take it to redline and when I release the clutch pedal after upshifts the drivetrain hesitates before biting. I can hear the RPM change in sound, almost like its "bouncing" off the pad.
So is this slippage or bad hydraulic engagement? I requested the drill mod but did not perform the work myself so I cant verify it. It may not be slippage because I have no problem engaging in 1st from a stop on a mid RPM clutch drop. Its only engagement between gears at high rpm.
To add to my frustration, downshifting 4-3 is near impossible to engage at high RPM. I literally have to pump the clutch pedal twice (and sometimes wait) before I can get into the gate. Perhaps heat on line or bubbles in fluid? I ruled out bent fork 'cause it doesnt hang at low rpm 4-3 shifts.
So this is my proposed trouble shooting route short of opening up the box or swapping clutch pads:
1. Confirm drill mod (I hate this mod and do not look forward to doing it all over again)
2. Bleed (what fluid is best?)
3. heat wrap hose
Then test drive
Agree?
Spec II and updated "LS6" hydralics with 4000 miles.
In every gear I take it to redline and when I release the clutch pedal after upshifts the drivetrain hesitates before biting. I can hear the RPM change in sound, almost like its "bouncing" off the pad.
So is this slippage or bad hydraulic engagement? I requested the drill mod but did not perform the work myself so I cant verify it. It may not be slippage because I have no problem engaging in 1st from a stop on a mid RPM clutch drop. Its only engagement between gears at high rpm.
To add to my frustration, downshifting 4-3 is near impossible to engage at high RPM. I literally have to pump the clutch pedal twice (and sometimes wait) before I can get into the gate. Perhaps heat on line or bubbles in fluid? I ruled out bent fork 'cause it doesnt hang at low rpm 4-3 shifts.
So this is my proposed trouble shooting route short of opening up the box or swapping clutch pads:
1. Confirm drill mod (I hate this mod and do not look forward to doing it all over again)
2. Bleed (what fluid is best?)
3. heat wrap hose
Then test drive
Agree?
#2
sounds like either the drill mod was not done, or the fluid is getting too hot at those upper rpms to work effectively... I'd first verify the drill mod, then maybe bleed & refill with some DOT 4 fluid for a higher boiling point, and then zip tie the lines away from the headers.