Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Well it took about 4 hours total from start to finish. It was definitly a lot easier than I expected. I've heard many horror stories about in-take installs. I decided to go with the "trap door" method which was really easy to do. Using some pics I saw on here I started cutting and 5 minutes later I was looking at the pump. The locking ring was easy to get off. The pump came out easily but took some carresing to prevent gas from spilling everywhere. I took a flashlight and looked through the tank and saw very little sediment, a couple specs at the most.

My Racetronix pump came with directions luckily because I would have for sure messed something up. Although it is basically a direct replacement for the stock pump, there were some things that had to be done in steps. The new pump went in easily but I had to do some more cutting to the rubber boot than what the directions said. I also put a hose clamp on the outside of the boot to make sure it wouldnt move around because it was in there pretty loose.

When I put on the new filter sock, the stupid metal clip popped off as I was putting it on. So I had to make some epoxy to glue it in. I am 99% sure the epoxy is not soluable in fuel, so I hope it stays on. I double and triple checked the assembly before putting it back in the tank. The locking ring again went on easily. I hooked the connectors back up and primed the system three times. The car started right up and I let it run for a few minutes then shut I off.

I was going to put in the wiring harness but was unable to get the stupid connectors ran to the fuel pump. The wont fit in between the tank and the sheet metal above it. I will have to figure something out in the meantime. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

You should not have had to cut the rubber boot any more than shown in the instructions. Replacing the rubber sleeve into the bucket provides all the clamping force required. The only way the filter sock would break away from its metal locking ring is if you pulled down (to remove it) once it engaged the pump's inlet. The instructions warn about this in bold red type. It is a one-way lock. A proper seal is required to prevent damage to the pump. The harness can be run up to the top of the tank with a wire fish BUT you must be EXTRA careful not to cause damage to the connectors and the wire insulation.

Using a flashlight will not allow you to evaluate the level of contamination in the tank. The tank walls are black. The tank should always be removed and flushed.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I finished putting in the wiring harness and that was just as simple. Having each wire labled was really nice. I had to use a wire fish to pull the connectors above the tank. That took awhile to find a good path to run them. The hardest part was getting the wire on the alternator because there is very little room to get a wrench in, much less a hand. I mounted the fuse onto the driver side coil pack. It is easy to get to and will be covered by the fuel rail cover. I mounted the relay using an existing bolt that held a fuel line clamp. I am not sure if this is a good spot, it will definitly get attacked my rain, but isn't hanging low enough get ripped off. The power line I zip-tied to the fuel lines the whole way to the motor using the supplied zip-ties. I am still not sure what to do with the black wire that goes from the battery to the chassis ground, or what its purpose is. I am not sure how to actually connect it to the battery

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

This is actually the ideal location for the relay.
http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX-FLT1-FPK/Dcp_1169a.jpg

The relay assembly is waterproof. The chassis ground terminal that is mounted with the relay bracket should be covered with some silicon grease supplied in the kit. The metal underneath should be cleaned as well and coated with grease. You want to keep this ground free of rust.

Your location of the fuse holder is OK. Just make sure it is not too close to any major source of heat (i.e. header). The fuse holder is waterproof as well.

The body ground upgrade is installed using the brass battery nut. It's installation is simple ... just as it is labeled. There is a chassis ground location just in front of the battery. The extra brass battery nut is for the + terminal so you have a matching set. They come in handy for adding power accessories as well.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I figured that the brass nuts were for the battery, but how to I get the wires out of the protective boots that are on the battery now? I was trying to figure it out for ahwhile, but nothing came to mind.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

The boot and terminal stay. The terminal and bolt are two pieces.
The bolt that goes through the battery terminal is pushed out from behind.
http://www.racetronix.com/Manuals/RX...H/P0004892.jpg

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Oh I see. I couldnt even get the bolt out. Thanks a lot for your help and a great product!

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

The bolt can be a PITA as it must push out from the front of the boot. Sometimes it is easier to press the back of the bolt against a hard object.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

for me the PITA was getting it put back on the battery! with the traction unit right there i had to fight with it for a while. i love the kit though it all goes together very smoothly