Corvette Performance - Last minute tips and tricks for a C5 cam install?

I'm probably going to be tearing down my car tomorrow to swap in a T1 cam. Does anyone have any last minute tips?

Eric

ps: I'm posting this here because I'm looking more for tips specific to the C5 and working around the ac condensor, abs block, and all that other junk in the way. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

make sure the steering wheel is locked, and I mean locked in position. If you do not aling the rack up you will set codes off.
Good Luck <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Please take some pics or make all kinds of notes as I will be doing this soon as well! All the tools/gaskets/etc you used <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Not a bad job, just take your time and it will come out great. Use a torque wrench, and don't over-tighten. If you have a automatic, use the Kent-Moore flywheel locking tool to remove the balancer bolt. If you have a 6speed, just put the car in 6th gear. Use a good 3 jaw puller too. There is a good writeup on cam installs on LS1.com. Good luck!

I finally got started tonight. Didnt get so far as to take the rack off. I couldnt find my metric allen wrenches for the tie rod end so I'll have to pick some up tomorrow.

I'm starting to wonder how hard it will be to work around the abs motor.

Eric

How's it going, Eric? I have a downloaded file of the Vette Doctors doing the cam install if you'd want to see it? Just e-mail me and I'll send it to you <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Didnt get much done tonight. AC condensor is out, but I really shouldnt have worked out there while the R134-a was venting. It really fired up my asthma.

I'm now trying to decide how to disconnect the power steering without a huge mess under the hood.

Until tomorrow...

Eric

Boy oh boy this sounds great. On the Fbod I didnt have to discharge the A/C nor disconnect the powersteering. Blah. I can hardly wait.

I might have been able to leave the AC charged and move the condensor out of the way, but when I did this on my 94 Trans Am and I cracked one of the hardlines. My AC never worked after that, this time I'm not taking any chances.

Eric

You don't have to depressurize the AC but I agree in your situation if I had had that happen I wouldn't take any chances either. BTW, did you like that install document I sent you? I can send it to anyone else doing C5 cam installs if they wish. Thanks.

That doc came from this didnt it?

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2001/February/cam/campg1.asp

There are some torque specs wrong and they seem to gloss over some steps that are not trivial if you havent done it before.

I have a friend who is going to vacuum and recharge the AC for me, so I'm not worried about that. Easier to get it out of the way than to work around it.

Eric

<small>[ April 02, 2002, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: 66ImpalaLT1 ]</small>

Btw, they say to remove the bracket holding the ABS motor, but do I need to tie it to something to hold it up, or are the lines strong enough?

Eric

The metal brake lines should be fine to hold it up.

All this is tempting me to just leave my B1 in and sell my TR224.

Nahh...that'd be too easy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Haha, come on jmX. Everybody has to do this at least once. Thats why I ordered a new oil pump and am calling about a timing chain this afternoon. I dont want to do this again with the engine in the car.

I should add that I have put very little time into this so far, maybe 2 hours. I've been slacking off.

Eric

<small>[ April 02, 2002, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: 66ImpalaLT1 ]</small>

Ok. Got the fans, radiator, abs bracket, and power steering rack out. I was out there about two hours. I took the rack out the way that the vette doctors do it. I didnt take it out from the left wheel well, but I might put it back in that way. It was no fun removing it through the middle.

The right side mount of the rack is rubber, and I had to fight that for a little while to get it out of the mount.

So far its progressing smoothly, but I havent taken any pictures because I've been doing all of this alone.

It has been pretty straightforward. If it continues this smoothly I'll be happy.

Time to go take a shower.

Eric

ps: Ask me what dexcool tastes like.

Eric, What's DexCool tastelike? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Anyway, did you have to drain the steering fluid from the rack? I just got my ASP pulley today and its instructions suggest you drain the fluid?

Also, what timing chain are you going with? Thank.s

First I disconnected the bottom line going into the rack, which goes over and down onto the crossmember. Where the cooler would be on a Z51 car. I pulled that line out (the top part is flexable) so it would drain into a pan. It will only drip a little until you remove the cap off the power steering reservoir. I disconnected the other line and it still dripped a lot of fluid. I soaked it up with paper towels once the rack was out.

So yes, I drained my whole power steering reservoir.
I ordered the Cloyes gears, and JWIS Kettin chain from Katech yesterday. I should have it by friday. It was pretty expensive, about $230.

I would have ordered the SLP chain, but I havent seen a lot of people using it, and I was a little uncomfortable shimming the oil pump.
Eric

This is great. I really appreciate your feedback <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Do you mind if I keep prodding you each day about it? Why did you go with the Cloyes gears instead of just the chain? Thanks again!

I dont mind the questions at all. I'm going to take some pictures tonight before I start working.

I got the cloyes gears because they're slightly oversize to take up slack in the chain.

Eric

Don't forget to report in for the day on what you discovered/experienced!

Last night I went out to dinner with friends so I didnt work on it very long. I got the water pump off, and tried to get the crank bolt off. That thing is TIGHT. I'm going to try again tonight with 6 point impact socket i bought at sears today.

Eric

That impact wrench should take it off. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . I have this post to look forward to everyday <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Thanks again.

I took it off tonight with a 6 point 24mm deep impact socket. I put this on my 24" breaker bar and put my floor jack's handle on it. From the top of the car, I pulled from the drivers side to the passenger side, and it loosened right up. Took maybe 3 turns with the breaker bar and it was only finger tight.

Thank Visceral for at that tip. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

I used a craftsman 9-46906 3 jaw pulley on the crank pulley. I cut a piece off of my 16mm threaded rod and put a nut on the end threaded half way so it would keep the tool from slipping off. This way I could thread the rod to the bottom of the hole in the crankshaft, so I wasnt putting all the stress on the threads by using the stock bolt.

I put the three jaw pulley on as shown in jmX's f-body cam install howto, but pushed on my homemade tool instead of the stock bolt. I can post a photo of this if you want, it might be hard to picture.

I thank my brother Jason for that idea.

I decided not to pull the timing cover yet, because my chain hasnt come in. Instead I took off the coil's and one of the valve covers. I wanted to verify that my valvespring compressor would work. I took one rocker arm bolt out, I might try to make my Moroso stud mount compressor work on the LS1.

Those valve cover bolts are tight when you only have a socket for them in 1/4" drive <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I'll buy a bigger 8mm socket tomorrow.

Thats about it for tonight. I think tomorrow I'll either swap springs, or put in the cam, chain and oil pump.

I'm glad you like my daily update. I've done a weekend cam swap before, but I'm really happy just working a couple hours a night. It gives me time to run around the next day to buy any additional tools/supplies I might need.

I think I'll be able to get it all back together over the weekend, it seems like its always quicker to put it back together than it was to take it apart.

Eric

This kicks ass, ERIC! I'd love to see a picture of that threaded rod tool. We should compile notes and take lots of pictures and create one monstrous and VERY thorough cam install page <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . I may be removing my heads so I could add that too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Again, I worked about an hour tonight. I removed an inspected all rocker arms and pushrods. I also removed the timing cover, which was pretty easy.

Tomorrow I'll remove the spark plugs and then work on springs and cam.

Eric

<small>[ April 06, 2002, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: 66ImpalaLT1 ]</small>

Good news. I love the progress!

Today I removed the oil pump, timing gears, camshaft, and installed:

MTI T1 Cam (ground by Comp)
Cloyes Hex-Adjust timing gears
JWIS Kettin timing chain
LS6 oil pump (stock pressure, not ported)
MTI/ASP underdrive pulley

I also R&R'ed all the springs on the drivers side head. There was only one trick involved with this, I loosened the fuel rails and pulled out the drivers side injectors so I had room for the spring compressor under the braided flex fuel line. I could have disconnected this but I didnt want to spray fuel.

Today was a good day.

Eric

How hard was the oil pump ot install? Did you have to loosen the oil pan and lower it a bit?

Have you noticed that there are two holes next to the inlet port on the oil pump?

F-Bodys use the lower hole that is below the pan rail, and C5's use the upper hole. In other words, no, I did not have to lower the oil pan at all. There was plenty of room to remove the bolt without dropping it.

Eric

So just dot-to-dot then? What spring compressor did you use and did you use the telescopic magnets to hold the lifters up? How many miles are on your lifters?

I used a compressor from KD tools. I did not use anything to hold my lifters up and I have 26k miles on my car.

Eric

What is the model # for the KD compressor?

Cool. I'm glad we don't have to drop our oil pan any <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . Makes things much easier. Did you degree in your cam? You're about done!

No, I didnt degree it. I asked Jayson at MTI and he said dont worry about it.

Eric

K-D 2078 Its a screw type.

Today I finished the valve springs, installed the new MTI pushrods, rocker arms, valve covers, sparks plugs, coil packs and water pump.

After I clean out the nasty AC condensor some more I'll reinstall and hopefully start the car.

Eric

Good info about the oil pump. I'll add that to the instructions. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

My headbolts/gaskets are on the way so I'll be doing all this stuff real soon now.

Eric, did you get any PCM reprogramming?

No, I'm going to order LS1 Edit soon.

Eric

Cool. I've got all my gaskets in now. Just gotta set up a time to do it all <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Oh, for the steering wheel, how did you lock it so the steering sensor doesn't get out of whack?

I still have the column lock. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

I'm gonna reconnect my column lock for the install then <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
What's left for you to do, Eric?

<small>[ April 08, 2002, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: NastyC5 ]</small>

I need to put in the plug wires, radiator, condensor, fans, shroud, intake components and steering rack.

Before I do all that I need to clean up some fluid spillage under the hood.

I'll probably finish tonight.

Eric

Did you take any pics of that threaded rod piece to install the pulley? BTW, any special tips for reinstalling the oil pump?

Actually, I ended up using the old bolt <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> With the ASP pulley I felt like it was deep enough in the threads that I wouldnt have to worry about it stripping. I did use a piece of threaded rod with the 3 jaw pulley for two reasons, It would push on the bottom of the hole, and I wouldnt have to stop pulling to unthread the old bolt some more.

I'll take a picture of that tomorrow.

I'm almost finished, I just need to get some weatherstrip adhesive to hold the foam pieces on the sides of the condensor. before I can put all that back in.

Eric

Levi, its Andy. WHen are you going to do you h/c install? Sometime this summer? We have some chrome wheels coming for the Z06, cant wait. Catch you later man

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 66ImpalaLT1:
<strong>
I'm almost finished, I just need to get some weatherstrip adhesive to hold the foam pieces on the sides of the condensor. before I can put all that back in.

Eric</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ah, you don't need those stinkin' foam pieces <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . I took mine out after swapping radiator covers with my TRIC install. However, I think I'll replace them with the cam install. The radiator is already out of the car, easy enough.

I agree that the threaded rod is not necessary for the install but you make a very valid point on the removal with the 3-jaw puller. That would save some time. I'd love to borrow that thing for my removal <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> BTW, how are you going to heat cycle your springs?

Andy, yeah in about 3-4 weeks I'll do the install. Can't wait to see those wheels man!

<small>[ April 09, 2002, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: NastyC5 ]</small>

I bet you've almost fired her up <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

Is this the pickup tube on the oil pump you're referring to? Does it attach to this, in the pic:
<img src="http://myhost.virtualgiant.com/killerc5/arepump.jpg" alt="" />

Thanks.

Thats where the pickup tube goes. When its installed its at an angle. The bolt hole toward the middle of the pump is used on the F-bodys, the one toward the outside is used on the Corvette.

See:

<img src="http://www.metricchemical.com/05.JPG" alt="" />

Eric

<small>[ April 10, 2002, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: 66ImpalaLT1 ]</small>

Eric, I'm gonna start my cam install this week (with my TR224) and was wondering if you had a picture of that threaded rod/puller set up so I can fabricate that as well. Thanks.