ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

checked my oil level the other day at it was pretty low...

i guess the cam ate some of it..... is that normal?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

ttt ttt

Cal

iTrader: (1)

No . . . .

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

definitely no

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

ok... so what do i do?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

did you replace your valveseals? How sure are you that theyre correctly seated?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

let me ask you how you seat them correctly and ill tell you if i did

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

well, I used a deep socket (forget the size) that just fits over it, and I push down hard on that till you hear it snap into place. It takes a lot of pressure. Enough get the meaty part of my hand very sore for the next few days from pushing against the socket. If they didnt seat correctly, oil might be leaking through the valve guides. Is the car smoking? Especially at cold startup?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

mother fu@#r ... it does smoke sometimes... not every cold start or any thing... well i know i didnt cram em on.... GD! I did the comp 921 kit with the ti. retainers and the seats and seals were seperate pieces......

so all i need to do is to push down on the valve stem seal until it clicks?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Yes, thats pretty much it. The bad new is that you need to pull every single spring to get to the seal. The good news is that since youve already got experience swapping valvesprings, it shouldnt take you more than a couple hours. Remember to use the TDC methor or some other method of keeping your valves up or else youll be pulling your heads. Remember to take your time. I know when I have to do something over, i get so frustrated i wind up forgetting seemingly obvious steps and end up making even more work for myself.

You may want to let a couple more people chime in with some other ideas... If you do have to open her back up, might as well atleast look into all the possibilities. My money is on the seals though

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

damnit.... that means... taking out the plugs too i hate our damn plugs.... yeah... the ole TDC method again.... hmm...does this mean my car could have some HP left in her?


what else could it be?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

You dont necessarily have to take out all the plugs.... Just number 1 to check for TDC. Once youve got TDC on number one, you can turn the crank (remove belt) 90º and follow the TDC method in JMX's howto as usual. Keep in mind that with the plugs installed, youll be fighting against compression so go slowly as the pressure bleeds off.

As far as some HP left, I wouldnt be too optimistic, unless you had enough oil leaking that it caused carbon deposits on your pistons and your car had some serious knock retard. If thats the case, run some sea foam through the car afterards to clean out the carbon and your timing should come back up.

I also assume youve checked for physical leaks? Particularly where you had to RTV the front cover to the oil pan. You did do that one, right?!?

Good luck man,
-T

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

yeah the front cover was RTV'd

no knock retard either.. well fudge me in the a$$.. looks like ill be under the hood again this weekend (hell and got nuthing better to do)

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't say they always make a clicking sound that you can hear, but you feel it pop on through your hand, and yes your hand will be sore as hell after you get done. Be sure to get the colors right also; exhaust has to have high temperature seals.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

what color is what just to double check?