dscott

Was checking the system again (getting the tune June 6).
NX Twin Gemini MAF wet.

Just wanted to see the fuel atomized to put my fear of puddling to rest.
LOL - no worries, the fuel is nearly vaporized when it comes out.

But, when there is no N20 pressure the fuel just kind of squirts.

I can't see how the machined MAF ends are built internally and was wondering if the N20 pressure is needed to atomize the fuel through the MAF jets.

Just want to make sure that what I saw is normal. If it is, then big fat note to self: do NOT be a dumb *** and forget to open the bottle before a run!


A few pics for others install ideas (Embarrassed the car was so dusty and pics a bit fuzzy. I can do better if anyone wants really clear pics)
one two
three four
five

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea, that's one of the problems with running fuel through our manifolds with no n2o. It's the pressure of the n2o that does most of the work (nozzle design also plays role) and helps carry the fuel. This is one of my main contentions that dry is safer than wet (not knocking wet or wet choices), so many different mech problems can stop the n2o flow. Does this mean you'll blow your motor, no. But, it does up the chances. Just stay on top of things and it'll be fine.

Your pics are fine. What are your indicator lights for, sw panel and pillar? I like your sw panel design. One thing I noticed as a safety issue is, running your wiring inside the blk loom with SS braided line. This is not a good idea as the vibration can/will rub through your wiring and then problems. I have seen this issue numerous times at work. I have other critique if you want?

dscott

Please critique all you want! I would PM but I think it should be public.

Lights -
Pillar: Green is for selonoids engaging. Red is "system armed".
Switch panel lights: Red is a redundant "system armed" light - I really need that kind of thing cause I have left my fan switch on before and don't want to make that mistake with the N20. And the green one just got changed to red as an indicator for the bottle heater being on. Again, for me, I just need to see if things are on or off. The lighted switches just aren't bright enough during daytime.

Thanks for the info on the braided line being in the loom with the wire. I actually thought there might be a problem with that but did it anyway like a dummy. Say anything you want - it's info myself and others can learn from...

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The reason I asked on the lights is I did a similar set-up. I have a custom sw panel in ash tray, lighted arm sw's and three indicators, one for micro toggle to arm 2nd stage, two greens wired in with dual ws's one is activated in 1st stage at 3500rpm, second is 2nd stage at 4700rpm in second gear only (no pics yet). Your install is nice, except if I was doing it I would paint the copper lines as a way to make them dissapear. reason being, the front screens really show them, and people equate copper and n2o as a comprimise, just my opinion and if your happy that's all that counts. Also, anywhere your ss lines touch maybe use split clear tubbing, it's really not noticable. I use the clear anywhere I think it will rub as it's (ss line)very agressive over time and does permanent scarring.

dscott

Very good point about the SS line and using clear split tubbing - will be doing that.

And for now, I'm okay with the copper. But I do like the idea of painting it. Will give it some thought - thanks for your thoughts!!