Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

With +100K miles on my car I was looking to replace my pushrods and springs with stock pushrods and stock springs.
Question 1. going with stock pushrods b/c i like the idea of bending my rods vs destoying a valve with hardend pushrods for now...stock cam still...(should i just say screw it and get hardend pushrods if so why?)

Question 2. Is there any benefit to using aftermarket springs with a stock cam? If so what is it and what kind of springs would you recommend for me?

Question 3. How difficult is it to replace these components? Will i need any special tools to do so, ie micometer, spring compression tool, etc?

Any help is much appreciated as this would be my first time doing this and don't want to run into any unexpected issues..

conan

iTrader: (5)

Why fix it if its not broken? I would say do the springs and push rods W/ a bigger cam. If you going to just replace the springs you will need a compression tool. I got my "more proformance" compression tool from thunder. About 100$.

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

If your going to do it then atleast replace them with after market stuff. Which ones don't know that. I just put 918's on my car to prevent any valve float when I hit the dyno for tuning. It's not a fun job but once you get it it's easy. Don't forget to hook up your air compressor into your spark plug hole when you change the springs. Get a magnet pin of some sort and some kind of spring compressor tool. The one's that the guys sell on here for like 30 buck's work I made one for myself and it did the job fine. pm me if there's anything you would like to know.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

no way in hell i would ever replace springs and/or pushrods that work fine unless they were needed because of an aftermarket cam or orcker arms

the springs and pushrods will far outlast the rings and bearings

ArKay99

iTrader: (1)

If the car is stock and going to stay that way I wouldn't change the springs or pushrods at all. If I had to change them for either a broken spring or a bent pushrod then I would put in stock springs and pushrods. Why? The stock pushrods are the correct length. The stock springs won't flex the stock pushrods as much as aftermarket springs with higher seat pressure will. Also with higher seat pressure on aftermarket springs you will be giving some hp up to the increased spring pressure.

blkZ28spt

Personally I would change the springs on a 100k mile car. It's been awhile, but somebody did what you are talking of before and gained on the dyon because the old/stock springs were so tired at that point. It couldn't hurt to put new stockers or LS6 springs in, assuming you won't ever be putting a new cam in the car.
You can use TDC method, don't need an air compressor. Seraching and reading www.ls1howto.com will tell you how to do the swap.
Buy a good spring tool. I used and recommend the crane cams tool. It does two springs at once, got it though thunder.

Adrenaline_Z

I agree. With +100K miles on the springs, installing a fresh set is peace of mind.

Staying with the stock specs, or thereabouts is probably the best approach
if you don't swap the cam, rockers, etc.

If you change pushrods, keep strength vs. weight in mind. A pushrod that
flexes reduces maximum valve lift and will cause the lifter to pump up.
Aftermarket hardened rods aren't too pricey and can give a little edge.

When/If you change springs, buy a shim kit and some sort of spring height
measuring device. I don't know what the spec is for LS1, but all of the spring
heights and open pressure should be within 0.005" and 3-5 lbs. respectively.

Lastly, use a spring that is installed at the current height to keep things simple.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I would say 100K is a good time to freshen up the springs and valveseals on a stock engine. I, however, would say you might as well get ls6 springs for some added piece of mind.

Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

Thx guys I can understand where everyone is coming from...I guess at this point I will have to decide if I will cam it in the future or not...Thx again!!

Tech

iTrader: (1)

Be sure to replace the valve seals while you are in there. Also a good time to do plugs/wires.

Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

ok how about just replacing pushrods? not springs...will that be much easier..?

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

easier...but totally pointless....
You gain NOTHING.....

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

Hey man, it’s Shawn again from MIR. I just put my cam in about a week ago and there are a few things I’d suggest. A good spring compressor is absolutely necessary on our cars. Either the more tool or the crane cam’s one From Thunder will work great. Don’t even bother getting/borrowing/renting something from track auto or something like that. You’ll also need a longer crank bolt for pulling the crank pully and for putting it back on. You’ll need something like a deep socket 10mm to put the valve seals on, unless you keep the old ones and don’t replace the seats or seals. A pulley puller is absolutely necessary as well.

I don’t think you’ll have any performance increase with aftermarket springs and the stock cam, but I could be wrong. I got the Comp Cams 63-26921-KIT from Thunder and it’s been doing great! They’re basically the best you can get. With this kit you’ll need to replace the seals and seats though because that’s part of the kit.

You can keep the stock pushrods, but it’s not recommended. From what I’ve heard/seen you should get upgraded pushrods for an upgrade valvetrain.

You don’t need a micrometer. I didn’t need one for my cam install so I don’t know why you would. Just make sure you torque your rocker bolts to 22 foot pounds (that's another thing I guess-a torque wrench = ). I also did the dot to dot method for getting my cam in there and it worked great for me. Just make sure you line the dots up PERFECTLY. As for the valvespring swaps, it’ll be challenging for the first one and then it’ll be clear blue sailing after one is done. Once you do one, and you get the hang of it, it’s easy after that. With the back springs it definitely helps to have a second pair of hands though. I wouldn’t recommend doing this whole install alone for the first time. Let me know if you want help cause there’s a few tricks to getting things like the coil brackets off.

If you do end up doing the cam swap, you should really get a tune too. The only place I know of around here is Fbodycentral. Anytime they did a tune on my car, it wouldn't start back up. They might be good for some things, but tuning isn't one of them. Thanks to the tune (not the cam!) I have a little hesitation in 4th gear now. This is a separate topic though which I’ll be posting later…

Adrenaline_Z

I'll second that - you wont get any benefit from increasing spring pressure
unless the stock springs cause the valve to bounce upon closing.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I remember reading older valvespring allowing valve float even on stock cam. Stiffer springs like ls6 springs can also help protect against p to v collisions if a mechanical overrev takes place.

No performance benefit perhaps, but there may be a safety benefit, no?

Adrenaline_Z

Safety benefit - yes.

But, allowing the valve to float a touch and come down in a controlled manner
can make power.

The longer the valve stays open at each lift point within the set duration points, the more power can be made.

Figuring clearance, and safety margins is something that is beyond my scope.

I would guess such a spring has more mid range and installed height pressure to
control the valve on the descending ramp, but allow the valve to float with a
modest open height pressure.

Don't get me wrong, I would not setup a street motor like this!

Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys! From the sounds of it I should just wait to tackle all of this when i put a cam in...Hopefully sooner than later as I am dying to get one!