flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

Cruising at about 55mph it will start ticking really loud then when i come to a stop it will stop ticking until later on but last night i ran a dodge neon srt4 that was pretty quick anyways it started ticking loud as hell until i got home and shut it off started it back up and drove it. It was fine no more ticking what can be causing this ticking to come and go? Here is my setup I have patriot dual gold valvesprings, comp 7.4 pushrods,comp R lifters, F1 cam .591/.569 on a 112 cam, With 5.3 heads milled .020. Thanks for any help i really cant afford for it to come apart yet. thanks

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I can't say for certain for your car, but mine had the same problem and it was a collasped lifter.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

i had a ticking that came and went also.. one week it would be fine, then it would start outta no where.. I would shut the car off and wait 5mins and the ticking was gone. I thought mine was a lifter so i replaced them.. upon replacing, i found my cam bearings were a lil wore down so I pulled the bottom end out and freshened the whole thing up for a peice of mind. I think my ticking was probably a weak lifter, but they all looked fine when we took them out. However, you cant tell if one was sticking off and on though

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Ticking can be caused by camshaft related parts, or crankshaft parts. It can also be injectors, but I don't think they could ever be as loud as you describe.

You can issolate it to cam or crank related by noting the speed that it ticks. Since the cam turns at half the speed of the crank, a slow tick at idle is cam related like a lifter or pushrod problem. The faster tick is crank related, usually a rod bearing or piston slap. If the sound changes with load, it's probably a rod bearing.

The sound can change if the rod bearing is spun and the two haves of the bearing stop in different orientations. Or if you have a lifter that is turning, the sound changes based on whether the lifter stops pointing the right direction or not.

You can get a cheap mechanic's stethescope from Checker Auto Parts, Kragen, Autozone, or Pep Boys and issolate it farther.

If you're low on bucks, you can do some research and figure out how to fix it yourself and save a bunch. One thing for sure though, the longer you wait to fix it the more it will cost.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

but when i stop the ticking usally goes away so i wouldnt beable to use a stethoscope (SP). It ticks faster the more rpms it turns. The lower the lighter of a tick then poof its gone!! It really is getting on my nerves. Just a lil while ago driving it started doing it again and the whole time the light was red so i got ready to pull into a gas station and poof again it was gone. If it was a rod bearing wouldnt it sound like a deeper tick and not go away? Ive spun bearings in other cars and they would never go away. Till the rod came threw the oil pan I hope its not my new comp r lifters causing this crap. Would to long of a pushrod cause this if so wouldnt do it all the time. thanks kenny

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

either way you will probably have to pull the heads since if its the lifters... is their nay metal or anything in the oil?

trust me, my tick was VERY ANNOYING.. it came from nowhere oneday while driving along EASY at 55-60ish(same as you lol). Then it went away. I put some stuff in the oil to clean the lifters and the ticking was gone for 3months! Then it was back.. went away for a week, then it wa sback again. So i said heck with it and pulled the heads off and took out the bottom end. Whether it was just the lifters, i dunno.. Probably was, but needless to say and knock on wood its gone now after new rings, bearings and etc were put in lol

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

dammit that sucks i will look into changing the lifters but they are new so why would they be bad? How much are head studs? If it is the lifters what should i go with for the lifters? thanks

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Comp r lifters are supposed to be sensitve to preload, so that may be it. I think pushrods that are too short would be more likey to cause this than ones that are too long. I used Comp OE replacement lifters and have had no problems.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

so it more than likely is my new comp r lifters causing this ticking will it hurt anything if i ignore it for a while if it is the lifters occansionlly (sp) causing this? Why would they be ticking this loud only sometimes thanks guys for the help

Cal

iTrader: (1)

If it's just the lifters ticking, shouldn't hurt anything. But you need to be fairly sure it's not something in the low end. If you're not sure if it's slow or fast click, maybe you can get someone experianced to listen to it, or post a sound clip.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Mine did the same exact thing. Ticking real loud at highway speeds, but when I stopped the car and turned off the ignition, then back on again it would go away.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

thats why i just went with the comp OEM lifters... The R's seemed to be hit or miss and I didnt hear of any issues with the OEM ones

its definitly nerve racking so i hope you figure it out

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I had the same thing happen to me, at idle it sounded normal, a little rev and it ticked pretty loud. This happened after a trip down the track and I hit the limiter hard when it wouldn't shift to third (6900 redline). It didn't even start to do this till my drive home either. I thought for sure it was a spun bearing, but after pulling the motor, the bearings looked fine. Lifters looked ok to, but who can say for sure, maybe it was a lifter. Since I put a new forged shortblock in, I never new for sure.

It's possible I guess some foreign material can get into a lifter and not supply enough oil to keep it pumped up when at revs over idle. It could also be a cam bearing.

Dan

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

it didnt do this until i put the new 5.3 heads on and the comp r lifters, How could i tell if it is my rockers or my lifters for sure? Is there a certain why the lifters go in? other than the common sense way. It is getting worse though i monitered (sp) it really good earlier i say around 2500-3000 when it comes in sometimes but doesnt leave until the it drops down to idle. It ticks faster the more rpms. But if i punch it, it clears up then when it goes back down to 2500-3000 it is there again. Man this really does suck i dont want to tear the heads back off right now. Maybe the rockers are going bad but they only have about 17,000miles on them 2000 miles with aftermarket cam. On the lifters is there a certain way for the squirt hole to go on the side of the lifter up or down facing? thanks

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

anybody on the have an answer for the last few ?s thanks

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

go to advance auto parts by a bottle of rislone and pour it in the oil.. see if the tick goes away.. mine did.. that **** freed a collpased lifter and it lasted me 8 months till i rebuilt the motor

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Sent you a PM flippin...

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

props go out to dustin butts for coming to my house and helping me figure this thing out. Pushrods were a lil too long he let me get a set of 7.35s from him put them in and now it is good. thanks everybody for the help. great guy

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

glad you got everything worked out.. hellova lot better than pulling the heads and etc for nothing

im sure you can sleep at night now also

hehhehehe

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

feels great. didnt want to pull the heads again