radio626active

I keep hearing its time to dive in the engine! So here I am, whats next?? I have a 99 B4C (Z28) Its got or in the process (right now its at the mechanic) of getting, 275/35/18s all round, magnaflow, 02 simms, MAC ORY, MAC headers (liked them for clearance) a SLP LID, K&N, its getting a mild cam, and 3.42 gears. ((nobody told me why they thought the 3.73s would be better))
Its getting lowered, and has some visual stuff but nothing serious. Now I drive the car. Its not a daily driver, as I drive a 95 Impala SS for that. Its more like a friday night warrior when this 31 year old guy takes his wife out! I drive the car, maybe to get something in town if need be. I drive it on the hwy. I DONT race it, unless your a punk kid in a Mustang. What am I missing. I want the most bang for the buck, but money isnt a serious issue......? Any help????

tbojbob

Well, based on your gear ratio comments I'm guessing you have an automatic car, right? If so then DEFINITELY get a higher stall torque converter, the size of which will depend on the cam you're installing. Any sponsor selling converters on this site or your cam source can help with the size selection.

radio626active

Yup its a automatic! I keep hearing a higher stall torque converter, can you explain what the advantage is.........Im a newbie when it comes to mods.

DD966

iTrader: (3)

A torque converter is useful/necessary when racing, kinda evens out the M6 advantage. Many A4 owners do this mod first. If you are doing a mild cam you might want to consider doing the heads at the same time. However, IMO, nitrous is the best "bang for the buck" power adder. Good Luck

radio626active

What does a torque converter do, how much, and are they for regular driving??? I'm totally new to the mod seen.

DD966

iTrader: (3)

A very basic defintion is: An automatic transmission comes with a torque converter instead of a clutch. It allows you to stop without stalling out. An aftermarket stall converter doesn't increase your hp/tq, it just makes it available to you earlier in the RPM range. It definitely gives you more power during your launch. It even helps when racing from a roll since higher torque levels are available sooner. Its fine for regular driving. Good luck.

SsZERO

As DD996 said, the TQ converter is what all auto cars have in place of a clutch. It's a fluidic coupling, meaning that it transfers torque via a viscous fluid (tranny fluid). This is what allows you to stop without having the engine stall.

The "stall" speed of a TQ converter is, as I understand it, the speed at which the converter will actually begin transferring TQ, thus turning your wheels. A stock converter probably has a stall speed around 1600 RPM, so if you press on your brake and slowly depress the accelerator, you can turn the engine at up to 1600 RPM before your tires start breaking loose and turning.

That's about all I know so far, but there are other things you need to consider when shopping for a converter. I'm planning to get one for my GTO.

radio626active

Thanks guys you two have been the first to explain it in a way I could understand. Ill ask my mechanic when he rebuilt my "high performance" trans, if he beefed up the converter.

blkZ28spt

FYI: A lot of people get their 4L60E's rebuilt and then blow them again. Chances are the converter is stock if you don't know.

Try doing some searches in the auto trans section. People are ALWAYS asking what converters do, what a "loose" converter is and for advice on which one to get and why.

For you I'd suggest a 3000-3500 stall converter (Yank SS3600, TCI SF3000, TCI SSF3500, Vig3200, etc), an LS6 intake manifold and then shop for a cam. That will require some research, start by looking at a TR224 and see if that will suffice or if you'd like to go bigger.

PREDATOR-Z

Yeap TC> Cam, I would suggest VIG 3200 with either TR224 or FM11 (a tad bigger)

SsZERO

Now maybe someone can clarify something for me...if I did drop a 3200 stall TC in my GTO, how would that affect driveability? Would I have to rev the engine up to or past 2000 RPM before it starts moving from a stop?

blkZ28spt

With 4000 stall and ~1000 rpm indicated idle speed my car moves at idle. With stock cam/idle and 3500 stall it would also move at idle. A ~3500 stall can be driven in most situations at about 2k-2.2k rpm, but needs 2500 to move briskly enough for larger roads.

SEARCH.

PREDATOR-Z

I've had TCI3500 with stock cam and it moves at idle. My VIG 3200 (actual) also moves at idle. It has to do with the STR of the converter. The lower the str, the tighter the coverter (tech term). A loose converter usually has a higher str and requires more pedal to make it move.
The stall rating is the rpm the converter flashes when floored upon.
I gained .6 of a sec in times on my stock cam when I did the TCI3500 swap in the old days.
PM PatrickG on this board, he has used around 15 different converters and will give you good advice. (more in depth explanation)

radio626active

I'll ask the trans guys what they did....with my mods I already have done what else should I do? Cash isn't a big issue, but I do want bang for the buck, and I DONT RACE the car! Its a street machine!

PREDATOR-Z

Headers>Air induction> ported TB>Stall>cam>heads>gears (depends on cam)>suspension etc.....

radio626active

Predator, if you do the setup you said ((thats pretty much what Ive got except I haven't worked on suspension)) what type of HP should one expect, with a mild cam, and no ported TB?

PREDATOR-Z

The minute you put on H/C you should hit 400rwhp min, assuming you chose the right parts to work together.