Which pushrods?
06-11-2005, 08:29 PM
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Which pushrods? I have a .538/.538, 228/228, 114 lsa cam with other mods in sig. I gout trick flow 7.400 pushrods and I am installing it all tomorrow, cleaning parts now. My question is a little late I know but I got to thinking about the pushrods. When do you use the 7.350, or the 7.450 or just stock replacements? What is the difference it makes on the cam?
06-11-2005, 08:38 PM
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the smaller ones are for when you get the heads done. Im running a similar cam. the f10 on a 114. Ive got PRC dual springs and futral hardened pushrods. I think i should've stuck with the stockers just incase i miss a shift or over rev.
06-11-2005, 08:48 PM
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I see, they are not hard to change out though. What effects does it have on the cam if any, surely a longer pushrod would do something to the cam or am I just thinking wrong?
06-11-2005, 10:02 PM
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The 7.4's are longer than stock to compensate for the smaller base circle on the cam lobes of the new bigger cam, so that you can fit the lobes through the cam bearing holes. The 7.350's and smaller than OEM PR is for heads that have been milled or heads that have valves with .050 or .100 longer valve stems. If you don't use the shorter PR then you will screw up the valve train geometry. Like where therocker arm actually touches on the top of the valve. That is why you put black magic marker on the top of the valve and then see where the marker wears off.
06-11-2005, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
The 7.4's are longer than stock to compensate for the smaller base circle on the cam lobes of the new bigger cam, so that you can fit the lobes through the cam bearing holes. The 7.350's and smaller than OEM PR is for heads that have been milled or heads that have valves with .050 or .100 longer valve stems. If you don't use the shorter PR then you will screw up the valve train geometry. Like where therocker arm actually touches on the top of the valve. That is why you put black magic marker on the top of the valve and then see where the marker wears off.
I see, I guess I had better let a mechanic handle this part lol.
06-12-2005, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
The 7.4's are longer than stock to compensate for the smaller base circle on the cam lobes of the new bigger cam, so that you can fit the lobes through the cam bearing holes. The 7.350's and smaller than OEM PR is for heads that have been milled or heads that have valves with .050 or .100 longer valve stems. If you don't use the shorter PR then you will screw up the valve train geometry. Like where therocker arm actually touches on the top of the valve. That is why you put black magic marker on the top of the valve and then see where the marker wears off.
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06-12-2005, 01:06 PM
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dude, you dont need a mechanic to change pushrods. take of the coilpacks. valve cover, rockerarms, then pull and replace the PR's and reassemble. Just that easy.
06-12-2005, 01:10 PM
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I was jk...I am doing all the mods in sig start tomorrow morning when I get off of work. Anyone in Arkansas or close can help if they want. 870-413-9304 is phone #.