TOZ

Ok, I finally decided to go for the CAM. I`m looking at a C2 224/224 .581/.581 LSA112 from MTI. Somebody told me to also go for a 224/227 for the Nitrous.
I don`t want to get something that would be waking up at 7K
I know some of the cars with Cams here so please put your cam numbers to have an idea.
Also more advise and recomendations are needed here.

Also the Spring job. What should I get ?

MTI Valvetrain Package (For use with performance camshafts on stock cylinder heads. Includes Manley springs, titanium retainers & MTI hardened push rods.) $ 375.00
OR
MTI HD Dual Valve Spring Package (Includes dual springs, custom titanium retainers & custom spring cup locators. (Requires machining of cylinder heads.) What about this ?? $ 349.00
And Can I use my stock pushrods and retainers ?
I`ve also seen the ones from Thunder. Whats do you think about those. ?
Update:
Ive been getting some people to tell me to go for a 218 or a 220/224 for low end torque which I really think this would be nice since the LS1 has a good high end on his own.
What should I do ?

777

iTrader: (21)

If you want nitrous then you are going to want a cam with a split with a larger exhaust duration. I would go with the PRC dual spring kit. It's probably overkill but 250-300 you are better off, I think. You will need hardened pushrods. If the package comes with ti retainers I see no reason to use the stock ones BTW you won't have to worry about the 7,000 rpm cams until you get up near 235-240 w/.600+lift. My cam as is peaks at like 6300 and it's fairly big.

blkZ28spt

Don't go smaller, 224 is a great all around cam. Don't worry about goign with a split pattern (ie 224/227), unless you plan to spray a 200 shot or above it doesn't matter much. It's better to buy the cam for how you will be using it 99% of the time, IMO. You don't need dual springs, but should get titanium retainers and hardened pushrods. A 224/224 won't need to be reved very high, your power should be falling off well before 7k. (actually, none of the cams you can buy would "wake up at 7k", that is a little bit of an exaggeration, even very large ones usually wake up by 4.5k )

I'd get a TR224 with Comp 918's, Ti retainers and hardnended pushrods. Be sure you get it dyno tuned if you want the most out of it. PRC duals are good and great for the money as well.

What are your supporting mods?

SouthFL.02.SS

What's up Toz.

My experience (having had a 222/222 and a 231/237) cam is that:

A) Go too small, you want more (you want it to keep pulling when you're racing).
B) Go too large, you want more low end and (you miss the smaller cam when driving around town).


That said, it all depends what gear you're gonna stay with out back. If you want to keep 3.42's stay with a cam smaller than 230 in duration. If you're running 4.10's, crank that bitch up with a 230+ size cam.

Given your initial inclination to the 224/224, the benchmark, I say don't be afraid to kick it up a notch, because you will want to later, then you'll find yourself doing yet another cam swap.

My recommendations:

<230 duration
TSP225 (Texas Speed----->)
TSP228R
FM11 (Futral---->)

>230 duration
TSP232/234 Torquer Rev2
F13
MTI G1

Big:
TRex
MTI Y1
TSP MS3

As for springs, check out the PRC package from Texas Speed.

777

iTrader: (21)

If he were to go big I would say g5x3. If I'm not mistaken that cam does real well with nitrous and makes good numbers without it. I do agree with blkz28spt as far as get something that makes power well without nitrous since you wouldn't be using the nitrous constantly.

TOZ

I only use the Nitrous on special ocassions, a loaded LS1 next to me at the light or something like that, but mainly motor, I run a 125 shot only and I don`t think I would be going more thatn that, maybe a 150 but i`m still affraid a little bit of that one since I`m on a dry shot.
This is mainly a Street Car, not a 1/4 mile car, I still want to go fast tho.
Why is people recomending me a small cam for more low end / mid power ???
They say there are some LS1s pulling 11.90 on the track just with a 218 cam ???
Damn this is harder than what I thought, to chose for the cam I mean.
oh, the mods I got at the moments are:
Mac Headers, LS6 intake, lid, k&N, cut out, Hiflows cats, Nos 125, nothing Internal.

SouthFL.02.SS

Certain cams are real special in that they have both high end pull and plenty of low end. The F13, with the cam motion lobes that Futral uses is one of those incredible cams.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

A 224ish cam will be a good choice, good power increase across the board, and won't be a valvetrain destroyer.. should be good for 20K plus with no maintenance other then the regular oil and filter change.

the important thing to remember and either do with/already have done is the supporting mods, like stated above. Headers, good catback, lid, ported tb, and a pulley. Sure you can put in a cam without all these.. but youwon't really see teh full potential. I personally also reccommend a catch can for the PCV system.. most cars consume oil thru the pcv anyway.. just a good idea to do, kind of like subframe connectors.

Also, if you have a auto.. a higher stall will be in order, and if you ave a stick car, gears will be needed, and a clutch would be a good idea too.

blkZ28spt

Ask them how much the cam alone gained. You have to look at the gain a part gives relative to what they ran before, taking weather and supporting mods into account. There are people running better than 11.90 on the stock cam, so the fact that someone with a 218 cam runs quicker than someone with a 230's cam doesn't usually mean anything at all.

777

iTrader: (21)

PREDATOR-Z

Look at the FM 7 224/230 114 from futral (range 1800>6600), was designed for nitrous/NA applications.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

What's up Danny!

Remember, its all about the combo. You have to decide what rearend gears you want to run, if you're sticking to stock heads or not, what you want to rev the motor up to, etc. If you want a low-end cam, comp has a few nice grinds (something like a 212/218, powerband is 1800-6000 according to them). Personally, I like more top-end due to the fact that my car stays in the upper-rpm range going down the track so I went a bit bigger and I'm glad I did. I don't mind shifting at 6600-6700rpms though. What I need now is some gears to keep me in the powerband better, then the car should move nicely.

777

iTrader: (21)

I here the FM-9 is a nice choice as well. It may be a bit much for you though.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

I think that's too big for what he's lookin for (232/236)

777

iTrader: (21)

That's what I was thinking. Figured I would throw it out there as a suggestion just in case he decided to be a bit faster.

PREDATOR-Z

FM-F9-114 FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 232"/236" .585"/.600" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 2800-7000 RPM range, rough idle, recommended for blower/nitrous applications

That is what I'm going with as soon as i get a comfirmation from Allen if that sucker fits in with PRC 5.3L stage 2.5 (2.04 int/1.585 exht) 62cc.

Low to mid 10's on a 150+ dry shot will be mine

TOZ

Remenber guys I want something in the low/mid range power. I`m running 125 nitrous.
I was also reading the the lower the LSA is it turns ti be a higher rpm range Cam?
I`m stock with Ls6 intake and stock LS1 heads, i`m planning on keeping this.
so maybe a 220/224 ? would that be a goog cam ?

blkZ28spt

The lower the LSA is the narrower the power band, lowering the LSA should bring peak power down a little bit. I think the general rule of thumb is 100 rpm per 1* of lsa.

At least get a 224. It's an excellent all around cam that doens't sacrifice much of anything.

SouthFL.02.SS

Agreed, most definately get at least a 224 cam.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Not to steal his thread or anything but I have a Hotcam right now and I'm looking for a cam as well thats not as lopey. Ya think the 224 would be good for my specs below? I just ordered some PRC 2.5 heads as well.