Tarnation

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I'm asking for too much, but:

I'd like a heads/cam setup with stockish idle and I don't want to have to change valve springs once the new heads go on. Someone recommended the GMPP ported LS6 heads with the ASA cam due to it's conservative lift. What I don't understand is the lift is still not as high as the stock LS6 cam ('02+ Z06). Why isn't there a cam that maximizes the lift that the LS6 heads/springs can handle and has a longer duration for more power? I test drove a Z06 and loved the strong pull to the 6500 rpm redline as opposed to the puke and die of my C5 at upper rpm's. Should I just go with the LS6 cam? I searched and still didn't find definitive answers.

PREDATOR-Z

Any cam with a .550>.560 lifts will do. But there is no such thing as never change springs, just longer intervals.
IMO 918's with the range of lift I mentionned will last 40K+ if installed at proper specs.

Tarnation

iTrader: (1)

So do stock Z06 owners have to change springs intermittently?

zracer28

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, if you wish to have ported LS6 heads just buy them assembled with comp 918s or a good dual spring (depending on your cam choice).

I wouldn't go with the LS6 cam, just a personal opnion.
Those ported heads will want a big cam.
Maybe try the CheatR Cam

PREDATOR-Z

If driven full throttle on a regular basis, parts will fail.
Don't forget that an LS6 has better heads, lighter valves etc.. to support that cam.

CarsRFun

dont forget that the Z has more aggressive gearing.

blkZ28spt

Even stock Z06 owners who actually DRIVE their cars would be wise to chainge springs eventually, IMO. Assuming they actually drive that many miles. Even stock valvesprings get tired with age.

I think it's totally worth the time/effort/money it takes to swap valvesprings once in awhile considering how much more power you can make. It's an afternoon job with the proper tool.

SouthFL.02.SS

nope.
Hey Tarnation, what's up.

The ASA + 918 springs would be basically a no-maintenance setup, but the ASA is a rough idling cam. It makes decent power despite its .525 lift due to its decent duration, plus its tight lsa (110) which makes peak power available right away.

A TR220 (Thunder Racing) cam sounds like something you might want to look into. It gives up about 20-50rwhp to the larger cams available right now, like F14 (Futral), and the MS3 (Texas Speed), but that's the compromise you need to make for spring life. If you admit to yourself that spring swaps are an integral part of performance maintenance, then look into something like a Futral F11 or F13.

VINCI's low lift cams are also something you might want to look into --->

Any of the higher lift (+.575) cams available, with aggressive lobe profiles, will need spring swaps every 1.5,2,3 or 4 years depending on your use and setup. Some of the lower lift cams can possibly go longer with some Comp 918's (though I wouldn't do that without checking up on them every once in a while).

SouthFL.02.SS

Also, read this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html

Tarnation

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, you were actually the one who told me about the ASA cam a while back. Looks like I just need to suck it up and learn how to change springs. Thing is, the nearest respectable tuner is over 200 miles away (ECS in NJ) so I was looking for something I could "set and forget" without making the trek to NJ every year or two.

I'm in Frederick, MD by the way. If anyone knows of a local shop with a good rep, please let me know. Thanks everyone for your help.

blkZ28spt

You should only have to take it to the tuner once unless you mod it further after having it tuned. And even then a cam is the thing that needs a tune the most, if you have heads/cam and bolt ons you shouldn't need another tune unless you plan nitrous.

SouthFL.02.SS

Once your cam is in, tuning is a one-shot thing. Changing springs is just upkeep, and won't affect your tune.
I like the ASA cam for what it is- a low lift, basically maintenance free cam (in that you won't have to change springs for a long, long long time -if ever, bith proper inspection-). It is a rough idle cam that lopes hard (sounds like an ol' school muscle car), and it wouldn't be as driveable as a TR220 on a 114 lsa (which will outperform the ls6 cam). For what you want, a TR224 on a 114 sounds just perfect.

TheHun

Hardly can notice the ASA if you keep your cutout closed. If you don't know these cars unlikely you ever gonna tell it's cammed. My car is a "sleeper" now.
With the cutout opened it's a hole different story. Exactly as SouthFL.02.SS described it. Scares everybody away from racing you.
And it's streetable with a good tune.

TheHun

Cams what give you a "stockish idle" and low lift IMO just don't worth
the investment. They won't give you much gains over the stock cam.
Think big.
Either you start changing your valve springs regularly with a high lift cam,
or you go with low lift rough idle...hotcam, ASA, or maybe an LS6 cam...ASA has a lower lift and gives you more power and puts a big smile on your face when you fire up your engine.

blkZ28spt

That is a pretty ignorant statement. There are cams that have "stockish idle" and give a large gain over stock. You can't judge the power potential of a cam based purely on idle quality.