Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Did tuning on my friends A4. After I adjusted his idle, its like on the freeway it goes into cruise control at about 60. I did it via the "Programming for Dummies" style Idle tuning. He lost me at the part where he talked about the Air Idle in Gear Table. Anyone can clarify that.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Did you open up the TB blade as part of the tune? Check and make sure that your IAC counts haven't dropped to zero. If so you need to close up the TB a bit.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

But this is what he says to do to fix it..."Take the car for a drive and check your idle. If the car goes on cruise control reduce the Idle Air in Gear Table .2 (further if necessary). If the idle holds at 2000 RPM for extended periods of time reduce the P/N Airflow Decay table for all points above 10 MPH by 5% (multiply by 95) until this stops. Be vary careful on this table. " Where is the Idle Air in Gear Table he's talking about???

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

dont do any of that make sure the running airflow, ve, and iac counts are all right and the problem will go away

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i also have a post on it, search for new iac table, if i find the link ill post it

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

any other ideas????

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

You didn't answer the basic question I asked.

If you changed the TB idle set screw, you probably did it too much. Trying to change another table to cover that up is not the best starting point. See if you can turn it back a bit w/o affecting your idle. After that you can decrease the idle airflow in gear, if needed.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

if your throttle voltage is under about .65-.70 V and the iac count is between 30-50 then you are good and can start to get the iac counts inline and the idle airflow, if the counts are too high after you have adjsuted the effective area and airflow at idle, you need to open your set screw, i say about .01-.02 V for every 10 iac counts you want to go, thats a good rule of thumb i found when messing with mine, i started at .57 and went to .61 to get it right, it was 50 now its 30

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

there shouldnt be any other ideas, have yuo tried to do what we have said? if you dont get this stuff right it will never run right, you have to start from the beginning, dont look for the easy fix, you could mess with your throttle cracker and follower but that shouldnt be necessary at all

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys. I appologize. Ragtop I didn't touch the idle set screw at all. All I did as far as the IAC was only in the Programming for dummies. I fully tuned my M6 without anyproblems will Horists help. Thought is was an A4 thing.

The reason I ask for more ideas is because at first all I asked was for the explanation to find where the "Air Idle in Gear Table" was. I'm relatively new to this whole HPTuning thing.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys. I appologize. Ragtop I didn't touch the idle set screw at all. All I did as far as the IAC was only in the Programming for dummies. I fully tuned my M6 without anyproblems will Horists help. Thought is was an A4 thing.

The reason I ask for more ideas is because at first all I asked was for the explanation to find where the "Air Idle in Gear Table" was. I'm relatively new to this whole HPTuning thing.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

from a cold start lot the idle desired airflow and the dynamic/MAF airflow. if the lines do not over lap this causes problems and if they are way off then this would really cause problems. once you get those in line, tune the ve correctly and then tune the running airflow tables. then the car will react good. when you log those idle airflows look at the values per given IAC count, say at position 80 the dynamic is 8 g/sec, by the way log in g/sec, and the desired is 10 g/sec then you need to ADD about 10-15 in the cell that is closest to 100 in the effective area chart, do this until the lines overlap from a cold start, if you email me the logs and bin i can help you

then you tune the ve get it right

then you log from a cold start, after resetting the fuel trims, and after a few start ups, and adjsut the idle airflow from there, if it needs more add more to the table at the certain coolant temp...yada yada yada. do this and it will help you out, if not then you may need to adjsut the cracker tables, dont use those tuning for dummies write ups, i didnt do half that stuff for my cam just did the stuff i thought was logical and added to it, working great so far for me. let me know if you need help

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

It would be easier if you posted or emailed a log file of when it happens, and also at idle. If you want to do that make sure and log dynamic airflow, desired airflow, IAC position, and idle cracker airflow.

If it happens at 0% throttle, the decay tables have nothing to do with it. Ve has nothing to do with it.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

never logged cracker airflow myself, what woudl that tell you?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

It would tell you how much airflow the throttle cracker is asking for.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i figured that much, i guess what i really want to knwo is what to do with that information once you get it? do you compair that to dynamic and make sure they are close or?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

It will show whether the throttle cracker is causing the cruise control. The RAF airflow (trimmed) plus the cracker airflow should equal the desired airflow. If they're not equal, something else is telling the IAC to open. The solution is probably in IAC vs area table, but why wonder when you can log everything?