Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Ok, this is the deal. My tranny went out once. Had it rebuilt. Went out again after supposed "performance rebuild". Same shop rebuilt it under warranty and put in a Hughes 3-3200k stall. So far so good. Tranny felt alot better, shifted firmer and stall is very street friendly with my 4.11 gears. Well, about a month has passed and I developed a bad tranny leak. Put the car on a lift at the auto-hobby shop. From first glance I had alot of fluid on the pan towards the front and dealing with tranny's before you usually go to the foward most point for leaks. Well, change the pan gasket which was kinda hard and whatnot. Cleaned it all up and still had a leak when I refilled and was checking for leaks. Left the car running, but not in gear, raised it on the lift to look for this leak. Well, what do you know, I cracked my tailshaft housing at the radius from the flat flange to extensioned part. Get the picture? Well, it sucks. I dont know how I did it. Hell, I have the stock tranny mount still in. Any input would be apreciated. Thanks for listening.

Will

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Do you have a steel driveshaft? Ever had the car on a dyno or run over 110mph? Seems to happen a lot with steel driveshafts on dynos or at high speeds.
Contact Yank, they were selling some new 4L60E tailshafts for around $75.

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

No, no dyno time but i have run it up to about 120mph. Thats it though, 3rd gear runs out at about that speed. Dont like to do high speed runs in 4th. thats what kills the autos. And YES I do have the steel driveshaft. However, I dont have vibrations. Its balanced, aftermarket Three Rivers, I know its what GM uses stock, but I had issues with the stock one and got a new one from them.

Will

str8evl

iTrader: (1)

I would double check the length of the drive shaft, I had the same thing on 9 different powerglides untill i found out the drive shaft was too long. On decel the driveshaft would lunge into the tranny cracking the tail shaft. It held together fine until i went into reverse and applied the reverse piston, then whoosh all the fluid on the ground. Good luck.

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

its the proper lenght. I never had a problem before, ive had it for 8months now. 1st time this happend.

Ski

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Get a new tailshaft and an aluminum driveshaft. No one has ever come up with a definitive answer why they crack, but it almost always is with a steel driveshaft and high speeds or on a dyno.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Here is an aluminum driveshaft F/S https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/339669-stock-parts-off-my-2002-z28.html and call Yank for a cheap tailshaft. www.converter.cc

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

so, what your saying, if im reading you correctly is that the steel driveshafts are balanced, however, the added rotational mass at higher speeds, causes a bit more out of balance which cracks the tailshaft? am i correct or way off? i was wondering because, i personally never had issues like that before, however im not saying it doenst happen. But Ive never had a problem like that.

Ski

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

I don't think I said any of that. I said no one has ever come up with a definitive answer why they crack. All driveshafts are balanced whether they are aluminum or steel. Do a search on cracked tail shafts and you'll see it is always with a steel shaft. I had a steel shaft Z28 break one on the dyno while I was tuning it.

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

alright cool. time to get a alumninum one. thanks for the info. greatly appreciated.

Ski