Fueling & Injection - Aeromotive and Magnafuel pumps

Ive been searching, and plenty of guys here dont seem to like Aeromotive, saying they are unreliable ??

Is this really the case ??
Im looking to upgrade to allow for future mods and lots of boost :D from my current A1000+controller which Ive been using for about 4 years now, with various engines in my car, and it has been totally reliable.

Im considering either the Eliminator, or Pro-series ( overkill I know )

Or...

Magnafuel do some pumps which are a bit more compact than the Aeromotive.
Namely this one
http://www.magnafuel.com/products/efi/pumps/MP-4101.htm
or possibly this one
http://www.magnafuel.com/products/efi/pumps/MP-4301.htm

Although it doesnt detail flow abilities for an efi application.. although it does say it can support from 20psi to 120psi, and flow 2000hp for a carb/low pressure setup

Must the first one be mounted upright ??

Could the Magnafuel pumps be used with my Aeromotive pump controller ?

Id like a fuel system capable of supporting 1000rwhp, even if its highly unlikely I will ever see that sort of power.

I'd also like a pump now, that can flow well at higher pressures to squeeze more out of my current 57lbs in the meantime for when I build a new forged short motor in the next few weeks.

I cannot go in-tank, as its a custom application, and I dont want to use 2 pumps.

or what about Weldon ?? some say they are very loud ??

Thanks, Stevie

Run a dual A1000... that is what I am going to end up doing when I get to full boost.... (around 25psi)

I dont want 2 pumps. My tank outlet is only a single 5/8, and if at all possible, I would like a smaller pump, as currently the A1000 is situated in the trunk, taking up some room ( as is the fuel tank )

With an upright pump, or a smaller diam pump, I could mount beside, or directly under the tank, which would free up some room. At present, when I throw stuff in the trunk, it usually lands on the pump.

Run a dual A1000... that is what I am going to end up doing when I get to full boost.... (around 25psi)
Hi I was wondering what I will do for fuel delv. I have 80# inj., low imp. also I have a ls6 409, can do 25 plus boost not in my 2000 z yet this winter, motor is all new what turbo sys. do you have? I plan on t 400,ford 9 in. Im 48, sons are 23,25 wife thinks were nuts must do 9s in qut. mile before nursing home for braggin rites nice family we are wis. talk later eric

Biggest problem I have seen with the Aeromtive A1000 is that they will heat soak on hot days and cavitate (lock up) until they cool off. If you run one on a daily driver you may have problems. It can be mounted inside the tank though where the fuel can keep it cool. I have only seen this done with an aftermarket sump tank though.

Biggest problem I have seen with the Aeromtive A1000 is that they will heat soak on hot days and cavitate (lock up) until they cool off. If you run one on a daily driver you may have problems. It can be mounted inside the tank though where the fuel can keep it cool. I have only seen this done with an aftermarket sump tank though.The problem you've seen them with is the installers fault...I have had no problems whatsoever with mine Todd..I dont have a pump controller on mine either. It has never given me one problem.

Ive run mine for 4 years, admittedly not huge miles, and never a problem

Hi I was wondering what I will do for fuel delv. I have 80# inj., low imp. also I have a ls6 409, can do 25 plus boost not in my 2000 z yet this winter, motor is all new what turbo sys. do you have? I plan on t 400,ford 9 in. Im 48, sons are 23,25 wife thinks were nuts must do 9s in qut. mile before nursing home for braggin rites nice family we are wis. talk later eric

PT-88.... :) :) :) :)

I have had an A1000 on a nitrous engine. Aeromotive rebuilt it after I had problems with it shutting off. They said the older ones has magnet problems because the high octane gas had more alcohol it it and was the problem so they made a design change.

I now have a Eliminator pump with a controller. I am tracking down issues now to find my problem. It makes loud noises after driving awhile and shuts down if I don't stop to let it cool.

The eliminator flows 2.6 gal. minute at regular voltage. So you can figure how long it takes to circulate your whols tank to the engine area. The A1000 flows 1.9.

Things I was told to check.

1) Make sure you have the 100 micron filter before the pump NOT the 40 micron.
2) Mke sure you have a good vent for the tank. This is probably my problem with a 67 chevy ll. I was told go up to 1/2 inch vent.

3)Make the inlet side of the gas line as large as you can (-12an) to cut the restriction down.
4) check the routing of your fuel lines for a heat source and shield it.

5) Make sure you set your controller high enough so it does not give full voltage until you need it which is around 3-3500 for me. That way when cruising it is low voltage and not building as much heat.

The main problem is heat build up from recirculating the fuel to the engine and back so many times get the pump hot and it starts cavitating which builds more heat......

Saying all that.............. The best solution is to run an A1000 all the time with a controller setting to go to full voltage at 3000 rpm or so and have a second pump to come on under boost with a hobbs switch in the intake. If you chose to use these pumps.

The A1000 flows almost half what the eliminator does at full voltage so the heat build up is less, but is enough for low boost.

The problem with one pump on a boosted street car is it must flow enough for the max HP which builds heat.

Is the Aeromotive controller compatable with other brands of pump

Say Weldon, MagnaFuel ? others ?

Some complaints about the Weldons, are that they are very loud....are they really that bad ??

My A1000 is a bit loud, but with the engine running you certainly cant hear it.

I would think that the aeromotive controller is compatible .... it just reduces voltage.

Weldon is a good race pump, but it is very load. It would be good to hear from someone that has a controller on one on the street.

Knowing that the A1000 can support from 500-600hp one could set the controller to go to high voltage at 4000rpm on say an 800hp engine and the pump would not build as much heat around town because it would not see 4000rpms.

With the controller on I can barely hear my Eliminator running until it gets hot, then it is loud.

I have had an A1000 on a nitrous engine. Aeromotive rebuilt it after I had problems with it shutting off. They said the older ones has magnet problems because the high octane gas had more alcohol it it and was the problem so they made a design change.

I now have a Eliminator pump with a controller. I am tracking down issues now to find my problem. It makes loud noises after driving awhile and shuts down if I don't stop to let it cool.

The eliminator flows 2.6 gal. minute at regular voltage. So you can figure how long it takes to circulate your whols tank to the engine area. The A1000 flows 1.9.

Things I was told to check.

1) Make sure you have the 100 micron filter before the pump NOT the 40 micron.
2) Mke sure you have a good vent for the tank. This is probably my problem with a 67 chevy ll. I was told go up to 1/2 inch vent.

3)Make the inlet side of the gas line as large as you can (-12an) to cut the restriction down.
4) check the routing of your fuel lines for a heat source and shield it.

5) Make sure you set your controller high enough so it does not give full voltage until you need it which is around 3-3500 for me. That way when cruising it is low voltage and not building as much heat.

The main problem is heat build up from recirculating the fuel to the engine and back so many times get the pump hot and it starts cavitating which builds more heat......

Saying all that.............. The best solution is to run an A1000 all the time with a controller setting to go to full voltage at 3000 rpm or so and have a second pump to come on under boost with a hobbs switch in the intake. If you chose to use these pumps.

The A1000 flows almost half what the eliminator does at full voltage so the heat build up is less, but is enough for low boost.

The problem with one pump on a boosted street car is it must flow enough for the max HP which builds heat.You dont need a voltage controller!!!!1

Ive been running mine around with the battery in the back and good ground sources for quite sometime now. Venting the tank properly also helps. Ive never once had it get hot on me. I can go on long trips (2 hr drives) and go to the back and touch my pump and its cool to the touch.

What is regarded as hot anyway ?

I know on warm days its going to feel warm to the touch anyway, added to that fuel being circulated round the engine and back.

But how hot does it actually haev to get, before it becomes a concern ? And has anyone aded a fuel cooler, to cool the fuel, and in-turn, help cool the pump too ?

Wast of money! Why use two pumps when one GOOD pump will do.

WELDON

And a rpm control would be a good idea for a street car.

There has been many posts about Aeromotive pumps=crap.

I wouldn't put an Aeromotive anything on my lawn-mower. Magnafuel, Product Engineering, and Weldon are the only real choices.

I have also run an external Weldon. Problem for a street car is that people can hear you a block away :) They are awesome pumps if you don't mind the noise.

Stuff it. I just ordered 2 '044' Bosch pumps. At least I know they will be totally reliable, and quiet.

Install might not work too bad either, as they are quite small.

I assume one Aeromotive 100micron filter would suffice to feed both pumps ? My tank only has a single 5/8 outlet anyway.

You might have just found your problem and did not know it. 100 micron should only be used after the pump according to aeromotive. The want the 40 before the pump. The say it restricts the flow too much.

Both by Lethal Injection

1) Make sure you have the 100 micron filter before the pump NOT the 40 micron.


100 micron should only be used after the pump according to aeromotive. The want the 40 before the pump.

I am confused... :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Aeromotive say the 100 micron must be before the pump, although for several months, I did have the 40 micron paper element before it, with no problems.

Id think that with the controller, it is rarely flowing the full amount, so the 40mic before isnt so much of a problem.

And in an efi setup, the pump will be flowing a lot less than in a carb setup.

I would say its more important to have the 100mic filter for applications where the pump would be flowing its most. ie a low pressure carb setup.

I ran a Weldon 2025, it was very loud. I have dual Bosch 420's now.

I run a weldon 2345, ya its loud, but the thing can move some gas, makes the waterhose on the side of my house look like a squirt gun

Our Outlaw 10.5 car has two Magnafuel EFI 600's. :devil:

The 2 Bosch pumps I am getting are part no 0580 254 044.

I assume this is the same as the 420lph pump you guys refer to in the US ?

I did ask before about the part number, but responses seemed few, although one person did say their's ended in "044", which is how the pump is commonly known in other parts of the world...
Bosch specs actually say its a 200lph @ 5 bar.

Steve, I do not know the part numbers offhand. Mine were called 420L's by Tom@ls1speed.com.

Both by Lethal Injection

1) Make sure you have the 100 micron filter before the pump NOT the 40 micron.


100 micron should only be used after the pump according to aeromotive. The want the 40 before the pump.

I am confused... :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Sorry I have been busy and did not notice my mistake in the last post.. The 100 micron should be before the pump. The 40 micron causes to much restriction on the inlet side and could cause cavitation according to the tech guy at aeromotive.

And voila, here they are... part number is clearly visible stamped on body of pump.

http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/5002/img1596sm9jv.jpg
http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/6474/img1594sm7mv.jpg