cam too big ???
#1
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cam too big ???
i'm finally in a good spot ($) to start adding to my car.it is a 2000 trans am, a4, 3:23, only mods to date is cat back and lid. im gonna keep the 3:23's due to alot of hwy travel, however im interested in a cam.it's a high milage car- 110k miles. it still runs very strong and i've had NO trouble with it.i was thinking of fm-13 or tr-224 or is that a bit much for high miles ???any help would be great.
#2
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You need to search, read the stickies, and put a torque converter in first.
If your short block is in good shape you will be perfectly fine with a larger cam. Just replace the oil pump and timing chain along with the typical cam/springs. I know a guy on here running 11.2-3 in the low 120's cam only on a 110k mile shortblock.
If your short block is in good shape you will be perfectly fine with a larger cam. Just replace the oil pump and timing chain along with the typical cam/springs. I know a guy on here running 11.2-3 in the low 120's cam only on a 110k mile shortblock.
#4
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You need to search, read the stickies, and put a torque converter in first.
If your short block is in good shape you will be perfectly fine with a larger cam. Just replace the oil pump and timing chain along with the typical cam/springs. I know a guy on here running 11.2-3 in the low 120's cam only on a 110k mile shortblock.
If your short block is in good shape you will be perfectly fine with a larger cam. Just replace the oil pump and timing chain along with the typical cam/springs. I know a guy on here running 11.2-3 in the low 120's cam only on a 110k mile shortblock.
He is right, But you need Long Tube Headers, ORY, Catback( or True Duals) and a converter. YOu might want to get LS-6 intake first too, but you dont have too!!. Also look at getting pullys, and a ported T/B to max your cam out. BUT FIRST DO A CONVERTER....My god, i cant wait to get my'n in..It is a Vig 4000, and Most people will tell you to go small..IE 3000-3500. If you ask blkZ28spt, or my self or some other people on here, I know we will tell you to go BIG, IE..4000-4200. Thats just me. Plus you can go with a bigger cam!!
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thanks for the replies everyone,yes i am getting lt's, just dont know which one to get yet. was thinking pacesetters or flowtech because of the price or if i should just save up for a real good set.i was thinking of a 3200 stall, is that too small.does having a big stall affect roll racing ?(not that i do that but just in case)
#7
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Originally Posted by 00'ta
thanks for the replies everyone,yes i am getting lt's, just dont know which one to get yet. was thinking pacesetters or flowtech because of the price or if i should just save up for a real good set.i was thinking of a 3200 stall, is that too small.does having a big stall affect roll racing ?(not that i do that but just in case)
Don't go crazy with the racing from a roll, even stock, or you will eventually be shopping for a tranny rebuild.
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Yeah, I would go 3500 with a good sized cam esspecially if he's keeping the 3.23s. I like my TSP MS3, it's a 237/242 and it's not tempermental at all. No surging or stalling at any speeds.
#12
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Yeah, I would go 3500 with a good sized cam esspecially if he's keeping the 3.23s. I like my TSP MS3, it's a 237/242 and it's not tempermental at all. No surging or stalling at any speeds.
#13
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1- Make a plan and take decisions
2- Do a leakdown test and a compression test. Depending on those results you'll know how to proceed (ie: your motor can take the mods)
3- Torque Converter should be matched to the cam for shift extensions. I personally like VIG, because they offer a free restall and a 2 year no question waranty (on part defects). I recommend VIG 3200 2.5str.
As for the cam, it is a matter of preference. TR224 is good allout, FM11, FM13 are also good choices.
2- Do a leakdown test and a compression test. Depending on those results you'll know how to proceed (ie: your motor can take the mods)
3- Torque Converter should be matched to the cam for shift extensions. I personally like VIG, because they offer a free restall and a 2 year no question waranty (on part defects). I recommend VIG 3200 2.5str.
As for the cam, it is a matter of preference. TR224 is good allout, FM11, FM13 are also good choices.
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
I dead hooked with the 3500 and ran low-mid 1.7's
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
For driving around a 3500 is big enough for the MS3, but at the track it really wants a ~4k stall converter. I dead hooked with the 3500 and ran low-mid 1.7's, with the 4000 (plus LS6 intake and UD pullies) I ran consistent 1.64's.
#17
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Yeah, I should have said atleast 3500. I keep forgetting that not everybody has nitrous to help them get out of the hole.
At least not yet.
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for cams in the 220-230 range I would say a 3200-3600 stall is pretty good.. when you start getting above 230's in cam size I think most would tell ya to go with a 4000+ stall, but that alllllllllll will depend on where the cam makes peak power.
I had the lil 224 cam with vig3600 and 3.23's and went some 11.50s @ 117ish so I would say its a pretty good combo for a daily drievr that doesnt want a huge stall and taching alotta rpms around town with bigger gears. 60's were in the mid 1.5 range
If you want a good mediumish cam, try a 224 cam or something around the 228-230 range(F11). I have a F11 now and idle isnt that much worse than the 224 was. I have a TINY bit of cold start issue but again I can live with it. Its all in what you can handle... if you are gonna be sitting in heavy traffic in 90 degree temps a big lopey cam might not suit your best needs lol. Some dont mind.. maybe find a person close to you and see how you like there setup. Once you go internal its a whole different class and have some spare money in case problems arise:-P
but get the headers, asp pulley, and a stall first.. im guessing the stall will hold you for a year cause you will love that more than any cam I couldnt own my A4 if it didnt have a stall in it
I had the lil 224 cam with vig3600 and 3.23's and went some 11.50s @ 117ish so I would say its a pretty good combo for a daily drievr that doesnt want a huge stall and taching alotta rpms around town with bigger gears. 60's were in the mid 1.5 range
If you want a good mediumish cam, try a 224 cam or something around the 228-230 range(F11). I have a F11 now and idle isnt that much worse than the 224 was. I have a TINY bit of cold start issue but again I can live with it. Its all in what you can handle... if you are gonna be sitting in heavy traffic in 90 degree temps a big lopey cam might not suit your best needs lol. Some dont mind.. maybe find a person close to you and see how you like there setup. Once you go internal its a whole different class and have some spare money in case problems arise:-P
but get the headers, asp pulley, and a stall first.. im guessing the stall will hold you for a year cause you will love that more than any cam I couldnt own my A4 if it didnt have a stall in it
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i run the asp and I think many others do also.. just make sure you get a new crank pulley also and dont reuse the stocker. Use the stock one to get the crank pulley off though
i'd say get the asp, but thats just me.. look around cause I'm sure there will be sales on them from some sponsor
i'd say get the asp, but thats just me.. look around cause I'm sure there will be sales on them from some sponsor