BlackLS199

Gonna put a cam in soon but not sure how big. Right now my car is pretty much to drive around close to home and cruise around in. But im gonna end puttin a supercharger or turbo on it. Then maybe make it a stroker the thing is i dont want to be buyin 3 or 4 cams for whatever my setup is so my ? is what would be my best bet and get my moneys worth. thanks for the help

conan

iTrader: (5)

If thats all your mods in your sig you need to work on the boltons first. Cam will do no good if it cant breathe.

blkZ28spt

What transmission do you have? If it's an auto get a torque converter, 3200-3500 stall is a good place to start. Also get headers. Longtubes are best, mac mids are almost as good and shorties suck. If it's a manual look into gears. 4.10's are recommended but they make the ten bolt rear end even weaker so that's a no go if you plan to race, in which case you will inevitably want a new rear end. (12 bolt or 9")

Search the forced induction section as much as this one when deciding on a cam for a blower or turbo setup. I suggest deciding which you want between a blower and a turbo (significant differences between those two) and make sure that is what you will want (and be able to afford) to do before getting a cam. Forced induction cams are totally different from NA/n2o cams.

Unless you plan to build the bottom end sometime soon you might want to get the bolt-ons and then put your forced induction on the otherwise stock engine. Then if/when you get even more money you can go with a new engine that is larger cubes and/or built to withstand more boost.

777

iTrader: (21)

If you can afford to do what you are saying, stroker, bolt-ons, heads, cam, turbo/supercharger. I don't see what's the problem swapping 3 cams @~$400 a piece (even less if you sell the ones you take out).

electricz28

IMO 3500 stall is kinda tall for a daily driver unless you like a car with bad manners. Unless you are making big hp the car just seems heavy at speeds under 40 mph. It seems like everyone thinks that M6 and 4.10 are like bread and butter. I ran 3.73 in an M6 and it was an awesome daily driver. The set up was the Hot Cam, M6, 3.73, Cold Air Kit, K&N, Tuned, Free mods, LS1 intake, stock manifolds, stock suspension. It made 348 hp at the rollers. I drove this to school and work and still managed 24 mpg if I kept my foot out of it. It was pretty fast considering. I bought it brand new in 98 and wrecked it used in 2001 only had 1 payment left too. You know most of these guys on tech are right or pretty close. Start with some bolt ons, but if you just cant wait for the cam at least a K&N and a lid with even a catback will help a little. If you wants to do it ya gots to get that thing to breathe better to get the most out of your cam and your $.Anyone else

blkZ28spt

3500 is nothing. The minimum anybody should go, IMO, if they want their car to haul *****. Higher stalls don't give a car "bad manners". Bad manners come from the cam and the exhaust before the converter. All the high stall converter does is make it rev a little higher for a given throttle input.

BTW: I daily drive a 4k stall, dumped duals and a 237/242 cam. I realize that's not for everybody, even within this site, but a 3500 stall is perfectly fine on a daily driver.

PREDATOR-Z

When I had my SSF 3500 with 3:73's and sock internals, I gained .6 at the track. No ill effects in driving manners.

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

BlackLS199, i think you should def get some boltons first, but i do know what your saying about not wanting to have to buy 2 or 3 cams. im kind of in the same predicament right now, but im already on my first cam. so, if you plan on getting a turbo kit or supercharger, id suggest that you decide on what you want now, as in a turbo of super and what brand.

bolt ons:
-converter (3400+) or bigger depending on how much power you want to make.
-heads...get something nice, prob with a smaller combustion chamber (64-67cc chambers) this will raise the compression, but if you plan on going with a forged bottom end, its better to have a smaller chamber and a bigger dish in the piston. if you want to run stock bottom end, then go with a 6 liter head or something to lower the compression.
-get some suspension pieces, tubular lca's, panhard, torque arm (stock only good to about 425rwhp on sticks and then you break the mount off the trans), maybe a 12 bolt or 9 inch with 373's for auto or 410's for stick.

TURBO: theres no point in wasting money on longtubes that wont work with it. a turbo would also render a lid useless and youd also need custom tuning so stay away from programmers. for a turbo, there are certain cams that are better, but if you want my advice, go big or go home. i just put in a lunati 224/224 .561/.561 112lsa and its not big enough for me, i want more power. so i think you'd prob want something at least in the 230 range or maybe even in the 240's. prob a standard split like a 238/242 .600/.610 115+lsa for the boost. in any case, youll want more exhaust by at least 4 degrees and at least a 114 lsa but prob a 115lsa or more.

SUPER: depending on how you go, the best super is prob the ATI D-1sc, at least thats what i plan on doing. in either case, the aftermarket lid wont work, ATI uses theyre own and Vortech uses the stock lid. Long tubes would be a good addition to a super setup, so would a nice exhaust (not flowmaster), and the rest of the boltons. cam wise, id prob stick with about the same as above for some wicked power. hope this helps.

and on that converter, the higher the converter, it wont necessarily make the car run bad, but youll push the gas and you wont go anywhere fast until you floor it. a 3500 stall would mean that full torque wouldnt reachthe wheels until 3500 rpms. so basically youll rev higher at lower speeds than before. my friend has a 3600 vigilante in his 97 Z and its very streetable.

1FASTBIRD

iTrader: (21)

I second that Check out the cam's at FUTRAL,I say the F13 is badass. But get some header's first.

electricz28

Bad Manners as in a gas sucking hog, bit I did say IMO,

electricz28

Allright you guys talked me into it, I will get my verter loosened up. The last time I had a loose verter it flashed @ 3800. Needless to say my Goodyears had a bad year. Your right it was fun and it hauled *****

BlackLS199

i know to get on the bolt ons first i was just thinking ahead of time. I'm getting ready to go to school and I'll have all the things there to get this stuff done. just wanted to know what to get when i get the money. I was gonna go with QTP LT's with there y pipe and the gmmg exhaust. I prolly the K&N fipk or lid. thanks for the help

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

suggestion. qtps are expensive. you could get edelbrocks and true duals done custom at a shop for less than jsut the qtps nevermind the gmmg. i guess im cheap : ) and the lid will gain as much as the fipk for less money as well. like i said, if you go forced induction the lid/fipk will be useless. wait on the lid. wait ont he headers too unlesss you know you want supercharger action...a lot of things will be different as soon as you go FI.