STA

iTrader: (1)

I installed a new system in my 98 Trans Am to get rid of the Monsoon. For bass i went with a driver side stealth box with an Alpine 10" Type R. Because of a mixup my sub is a D4 Ohm, so I had to wire it in series and it only gets 200 watts rms. I am very disappointed with its performance . It has nice SQ but it doesnt hit hard and gets overpowered by my front components. If I went with the same sub but with D2 Ohm it would get 400 watts rms. My question is, would 400 watts make a big difference as far as SPL. I listen to alot of rap music so I like bass. Im not looking for earth shattering bass, but something that can be felt by a car in the other lane. Or is there a better sub out there than the Alpine that works in a stealthbox. I have been looking at the 10w3v2 and Arc 10D2, would these perform better? I would like the 10w6v2 but it doesn't come in a D2 ohm. Thanks in advance.

FSUNole17

iTrader: (18)

yes, the extra 200 watts would make a difference. stick with the type r over that 10w3V2, i would only swap subs if it were to a 10w6v2, but u stated that that is out of the question, so id stick with the type R

SSactionLs1

your amp isnt 2ohm stable?

STA

iTrader: (1)

At 2ohm it would still only get 200 watts. I have a MB Quarts RAA4200 which is a 4x100 amp. Im running my components on the first two channels and bridging the last two for the sub. Essentialy my question is, would it be worth it to get the DVC 2ohm sub for the full 400 watts rms. Would I hear and feel a major difference going from 200 to 400 rms but sticking with a type R.

Could I get even better results if I switched to a 10w3v2 versus the type R given the same power. I have heard good things about JL subs and don't want to kick my self later by not considering it. If anyone has heard the two which is better?

SSactionLs1

definately. That would be almost like adding a second sub when you double the power. And the R is PERFECT for that small enclosure.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

so is ur amp 1 ohm stable? im guessing thats how u will run it to have 400w.

GPz1100

According to mbquart's web site that amp is not 1 ohm stable. http://www.mbquart.com/2003/en_US/pr...&model=RAA4200

It's 100x4 into 4 ohms rms,
200 x 4 into 2 ohms rms, or
100 x 2 into 4 ohms + 400 x 1 into 4 ohms (bridged mode).

With that in mind, using a 4 ohm DVC sub, each coil is 4 ohms. The sub can be wired in parallel which will give 2 ohm load, but the amp is only able to do 200 watts into such a load. The amp cannot be run in bridged mode with a 2 ohm load (resulting in ~1 ohm load at the speaker terminals).

Or the sub can be wired in series which gives 8 ohms, and the resulting power will be ~50 watts. Either way you're underpowering the sub.

What made you get a dvc 4 ohm instead of a 2 ohm to begin with?

GPz1100

EDIT to the message above.

If/when you get the 2 ohm dvc sub, you can wire it in series or parallel and still get the same output.

In series, the apparent impedance will be 4 ohms, and your amp can do 400 w x 1 in bridged mode.

If you wire each VC independently, you still get 200 watts into each VC at 2 ohms (not bridged).

Personally, I think I'd go for the series hookup since that will deliver the same signal to both VC's (in terms of phase).. Power across each VC will still be 200 Watts (recall in series circuit, the current is the same through both loads, only the voltage differs - each load has half the total voltage dropped across it (assuming equal loads)).

STA

iTrader: (1)

Long story short, it was a mixup and I recieved a D4 ohm instead of the D2 ohm . As stated above I can't wire the sub in parallel because my amp is not 2 ohm stable in bridged mode. So, my type R is wired in series for a 8 ohm load, and only getting 200 rms I believe in bridged mode. Correct me if i'm wrong, this was my very first system build so i'm just a novice.

Sooo...I guess going from 200 to 400 rms with a new D2 ohm sub would make that much of a difference, yes? I know everyone raves about the alpine subs but wouldn't the JL sub be better. ALpine makes good HU but JL specializes in subs. I heard a 10w7 once and it freakin scared me. The specs for the 10w3v2 say it would work in the stealth box. Has anyone listened to both in this type of box? I need some real world comparisons of the two or any other sub out there. Since i'm going to spend the money I want to get the best sub for both SQ and SPL.

GPz1100

You are correct, in series, with 8 ohms, you're getting at most 200 watts rms.

If you double the power, you gain 3 dB in volume. If I recall from a different thread, to perceive a doubling of volume you need ~ 6-10 dB gain. So at least 4x the power. Of course, this varies with frequency as well, as we gauge loudness differently at different frequencies.

The Type R is rated up to 200-500w RMS, and i believe 1500 pk watts. Is there no way to turn the gain up on your amp for the sub a little?

Or perhaps fade to the rear (assuming you used rear rca's for the sub amp input)..

95stroked1500

i don't mean to throw a curve ball at you, but i think your best bet is to get a bigger amp that will do 2 ohm mono. if that doesn't do the trick, then build a custom ported. that should get you another 3 db and lower bass extension both. if you really want decent bass start over from scratch on sub/amp set up. you will end up spending more $, nickle and diming your self and still not be happy, if you start with something you're not happy with and just try swapping parts only getting minimal diff each time. i can tell you from first hand testing, that a second level treo (tsx) is superior to second level jl (w3). the TL meter doesn't lie, this was a test one, pull it out, test the other. in a competitors vehicle who's box was designed by JL for JL subs.

Martingale

I totally agree with 95stroked. I'd either get a mono amp for the sub or start all over again. If you really want bass that will get the attention of the car next to you you're going to need more then a single 10" type R.

InfiniteReality

iTrader: (6)

I'd get another amp for the sub as suggested. Then use the 4 channel for your fronts and get a rear set for the other 2 channels. then you'll be banging.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I would use two amps. One four channel amp for the corners and a two channel amp or even a mono block for the sub.

STA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I figured as much, I'm not completely unhappy with my system but I was hoping the sub would benefit from the extra 200 watts. 3 db gain I read isnt that much so I guess I'll stick with my type R for a while. I still havn't heard from people who have switched from a type R to another sub if they had better results using the stealth box. Anyone?

Martingale

Does your amp have seperate gain controls for the 3/4 channel. If so, turn that up or turn the gain down on the 1/2 to see if that brings your components and sub in better proportion. If you don't have seperate gain controls try tunning the fader in your head unit to the rear as the rear speaker channels are going to your sub. That might make the sub louder in relation to your speakers.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

The perceived gain from 200 to 400 will be much more than 400-600. Do it. 600-800, even less audible difference. This is of course assuming apples to apples. Many amps are overrated. Go to edesignaudio.com and get the nine.1 and be done with it. Get their 13Kv2 or even 13Ov2 and be prepared to be impressed. I had the 13Ov2 and DLS UR12 running off 700 real watts and it's very impressive, even in such a small box.

firebirdude

I strongly advise exchanging or selling the D4 Type-R and picking up the D2. I'm sure you're not about to buy a whole other amp right now, so that out of the question. Save the cash for you next complete upgrade. And the JLW3v2 would have a hard time keeping up with the Type-R in the stealth box. The Type-R is one of the best bets when it comes to the stealth box. And doubling your power will be more then noticable. If you can't exchange the sub you have now, and can't sell it locally, turn to Ebay. Then pick up a new D2 off Ebay. I'm sure you won't lose much $$$ in the switch. Well worth the money and a lesson learned.

GPz is correct with his wiring post above. RUN THE D2 IN SERIES! You want the EXACT same signal sent to each voice coil. Or else they will fight each other, which you do not want.

95stroked1500

keep in mind, that series on the coils will make the sub less efficient. same volts on 2 ohms is going to pass more amps than when on 4 or 8. "Y" splice the rca's to one, then "Y" splice back out to 2 and feed into the amp. then your signal will always be inphase, thus you won't have any coils fighting each other. so if you are trying to squeeze every little ounce, keep this in mind.

STA

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, im going to try the D2. I'll post my results soon.