For anyone who has used Carbon Fiber
06-27-2005, 02:25 PM
#1
For anyone who has used Carbon Fiber I have a couple of quick questions. I was wanting to buy some carbon fiber & do a couple pieces under my hood. Im not wanting to make molds of new pieces I just want to overlay the carbon fiber on the existing plastic pieces, then put the resin on. My questions are, What type of adhesive do I use to hold the material to the plastic? Could I use your standard spray adhesive? Is there any other steps/ products that I would need? I know I need the material & clear resin. Anything else? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Vann
Thanks,
Vann
06-27-2005, 03:24 PM
#5
Here is the right up I found. Along with the link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...fiber+write+up
1) Uninstall piece and remove anything attached to it (ie: locking device, or cig lighter- pretty much everything but the piece itself)
2) Size the piece by laying CF over it and cut the CF a little big to give yourself some extra material on all sides.
3) Sand the part with very course sandpaper like about 80 grit. Sand it in all sorts of directions not all the same way. You need to scratch the hell out of all the surface area- optimum for the CF to stick to.
4) Spray the part with some spray adhesive.
5) CAREFULLY drape the CF over the part. This is about the hardest step because this is where you will mess up the weave on the CF if you don't have very much practice. And the more complex the surface and curvy- the harder it is. Its not too bad for flat pieces tho. Now press it down tightly by going over it with your hand and make sure all the surface is smooth against your part.
6) If you minorly messed up any weave from step 5- go over the whole piece with a toothpick and straighten up any areas as best as you can.
7) Cut all excess from around the edges leaving only about 1~2" on all sides hanging over.
8) Apply a VERY thick first coat of resin. I use disposable brushes for the resin application. Theres no getting the brush clean and reusable once the resin dries on. So just get some disposable ones and save yourself the time and trouble. You may be able to spray it on if you have a paint gun that can handle it, but the resin is really thick stuff and I wouldn't want to mess up my spray gun trying. If anyone is successful with a gun, tell me what kind you used and where you got it!
9) Apply 2nd coat of resin. Wait at least 20 minutes after the first coat is applied. You can leave it sit really tho for any amount of time. Sometimes I only have time to do a layer a day. Its no problem to let it sit over a night or few.
10) Apply 3rd coat of resin after at least 15-20 minutes (optional) I like to apply a 3rd coat, but it may not be necessary- however, it gives you more room to sand in the end and better safe than sorry.
11) Apply final layer with surfacing wax added in. Again- after about 15 minutes of the previous coat.
12) Let it set until its completely dry (usually until next day).
13) Use a dremmel to cut the excess off around the edges. Then cut out any holes or open areas.
14) Sand the whole part with 220 grit until the surface is all smoothe and there are no dips or "fisheyes" in it. This is the most time consuming part and you may spend several hours on 1 part depending on size. So have LOTS of 220.
15) Sand part with progressing stages up to at least about 1500 grit. I usually go from the 220 to 320wet- 400wet- 600wet- 800wet- 1500wet- 2000wet- 2400wet- 3600wet- 4000wet- 6000wet. I probably go overboard and completely overkill. I'm sure it would look just as good up to 1500 or 2000.
16) Spray part with automotive clearcoat. (I usually do 2 coats, but 1 would probably do fine)
17) Wet sand part again (optional)
18) Reinstall all little accessories onto the part and re-install part.
Good luck. I'll try to take pictures of the steps next time I do a part. Like anything else- this takes lots of practice to get good at. So don't just jump right in and do parts from your car. Because odds are you're going to scrap some pieces when you first start out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...fiber+write+up
1) Uninstall piece and remove anything attached to it (ie: locking device, or cig lighter- pretty much everything but the piece itself)
2) Size the piece by laying CF over it and cut the CF a little big to give yourself some extra material on all sides.
3) Sand the part with very course sandpaper like about 80 grit. Sand it in all sorts of directions not all the same way. You need to scratch the hell out of all the surface area- optimum for the CF to stick to.
4) Spray the part with some spray adhesive.
5) CAREFULLY drape the CF over the part. This is about the hardest step because this is where you will mess up the weave on the CF if you don't have very much practice. And the more complex the surface and curvy- the harder it is. Its not too bad for flat pieces tho. Now press it down tightly by going over it with your hand and make sure all the surface is smooth against your part.
6) If you minorly messed up any weave from step 5- go over the whole piece with a toothpick and straighten up any areas as best as you can.
7) Cut all excess from around the edges leaving only about 1~2" on all sides hanging over.
8) Apply a VERY thick first coat of resin. I use disposable brushes for the resin application. Theres no getting the brush clean and reusable once the resin dries on. So just get some disposable ones and save yourself the time and trouble. You may be able to spray it on if you have a paint gun that can handle it, but the resin is really thick stuff and I wouldn't want to mess up my spray gun trying. If anyone is successful with a gun, tell me what kind you used and where you got it!
9) Apply 2nd coat of resin. Wait at least 20 minutes after the first coat is applied. You can leave it sit really tho for any amount of time. Sometimes I only have time to do a layer a day. Its no problem to let it sit over a night or few.
10) Apply 3rd coat of resin after at least 15-20 minutes (optional) I like to apply a 3rd coat, but it may not be necessary- however, it gives you more room to sand in the end and better safe than sorry.
11) Apply final layer with surfacing wax added in. Again- after about 15 minutes of the previous coat.
12) Let it set until its completely dry (usually until next day).
13) Use a dremmel to cut the excess off around the edges. Then cut out any holes or open areas.
14) Sand the whole part with 220 grit until the surface is all smoothe and there are no dips or "fisheyes" in it. This is the most time consuming part and you may spend several hours on 1 part depending on size. So have LOTS of 220.
15) Sand part with progressing stages up to at least about 1500 grit. I usually go from the 220 to 320wet- 400wet- 600wet- 800wet- 1500wet- 2000wet- 2400wet- 3600wet- 4000wet- 6000wet. I probably go overboard and completely overkill. I'm sure it would look just as good up to 1500 or 2000.
16) Spray part with automotive clearcoat. (I usually do 2 coats, but 1 would probably do fine)
17) Wet sand part again (optional)
18) Reinstall all little accessories onto the part and re-install part.
Good luck. I'll try to take pictures of the steps next time I do a part. Like anything else- this takes lots of practice to get good at. So don't just jump right in and do parts from your car. Because odds are you're going to scrap some pieces when you first start out.
Last edited by Z'mnypit; 06-27-2005 at 03:42 PM.
06-27-2005, 03:35 PM
#6
Thanks for the 'reprint', one question:
On step #5 and its exactly where it should be, would using a wallpaper seam roller to get it to adhere, pressing out any 'bubbles' be okay? I'm assuming you would roll lightly not like pressing as hard as one would wallpaper to drywall.
On step #5 and its exactly where it should be, would using a wallpaper seam roller to get it to adhere, pressing out any 'bubbles' be okay? I'm assuming you would roll lightly not like pressing as hard as one would wallpaper to drywall.
Trending Topics
06-27-2005, 03:53 PM
#8
Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Good. You may want to read a little after that post too. There was some more info you may find helpful in some of the replies 
Thanks,
Vann
07-14-2005, 10:29 PM
#15
Originally Posted by ls1king000
thanks chevychad.....got my stuff today from us comp. and going to give it a try. i still don't understand how you can cut the sheets perfect like in the pics like the piece around the shift boot. why did you mask where the boot would be.
I did not mask off that part where the boot was. 
2002yroneformula- PM on its way.
Z'mnypit- yeah, it is very hard to keep it all together on even simple pieces. Just keep practicing man- it may take you a little while, but you'll get the hang of it.
07-15-2005, 09:31 PM
#17
The spray adhesive does not need to weld or concrete the CF on. It only needs to be strong enough to hold the CF in place while you are applying the resin. Once the resin is on it will soak thru and bond the material to the surface.
