StangKillaLS1

I have a NOS 5177 dry kit about to go on my car and have Walbro 255 and looking at adding 42lb injectors to support 150shot, H/C and also to swap out on a new 418ci long block. Anyways I get told all the time that drys shots bad, and ive search on this site a long time a while back and saw that wet and dry shots are both about the same in saftey wise. But I wouldnt mind ditching the NOS kit for a TNT wet kit, if wets going to be better and safer.
what do you guys think?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I personaly would prefer the TNT kit...
Dave

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

I don`t know about safety. If they are installed right and fuel and tuning is good, they are both safe. Now power is differant. TNT hits harder and the power ratings are correct-or even more on each shot at the rear wheels! I love my TNT!!!

StangKillaLS1

Thanks, I know TNT makes great Nitrous kits. I guess I have a NOS kit to sell.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Nothing wrong with the 5177. A friend Friday night ran a 12.7x baseline run, then a 11.48 with a little 93rwhp dry hit. You can find the thread at corvetteforum.com in the c5 Z06 section. I think dry is safer than wet, but am not going through this argument again. You can check my web in the links section for a couple thread links on wet/dry thing.

BADBOYZ28

iTrader: (228)

I have a 5177 also and its been good to me!! But I honestly cant wait to get that TNT F1 or F2 kit........

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Stangkilla,
Check out our dual nozzle kit special.Its a better deal than the TNT kit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/320653-ls1-tech-dual-nozzle-special.html

Also,I can tell you this.If you take a wet kit and a dry kit on the same car with the same jetting the wet kit will out perform the dry kit giving better track times.
Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Also,I can tell you this.If you take a wet kit and a dry kit on the same car with the same jetting the wet kit will out perform the dry kit giving better track times.
Dave[/QUOTE]

Boy is this a loaded statement and very, very, very debatable. If a guy is comfortable with the massive torque spike off the line who am I to argue. You didn't clarify your statement, so I want to say that I would put my dual stg dry up against any wet kit of the same hp jetting and I say splitting the torque spike up will win the race on the top end. But I am not going to say that because I might seem like a pompous azz.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

lol,
I knew that would get a rise out of you.LOL

OK if you can not make your car bite from the extra torque that you get from a wet kit your are right.You will not run faster.
haha
Dave

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Rise ? Torque spike ? I see a trend here...I'm going to try both wet and dry and see what works best for my car. I'll post the results over on LS7power.com.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Torque spike??????
Whos tuning your car????All the systems we have installed or tuned have a torque curve just like on the HP curve.No torque spikes....Or lean spikes...
Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Puddling a myth, no torque spikes or lean spikes, man I am going to start taking my cars to Nitro Dave. So, you guys are doing dual stage or progressive on all your installs? Would you mind sharing your secret to eliminating lean spike on a standard wet kit?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Robert,
Im sorry I got a little lost on this post.To early for me.LOL
What do you mean by do we do dual stage progressive on all of our installs.
Of course not most applications are a standard single stage kit.Although we do do alot of custom set ups also.

Now on the lean spike and torque spike correct.Most applications do not have either.It is not un common to see a lean spike from time to time but that is a simple fix if it bothers you.All you have to do is run a shorter fule line from the solenoid the the nozzle that the nitrous one.It will take that spike right out.
The torque spike is mostly what I disagree with.Thinking back it is very rare that we have had a torque spike.All of our set ups have had nice torque curves.
Maybe Im missing something here.Please explain what you mean.
Thanks
Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Ok, a shorter fuel line is an answer for a shop doing custom installs, now most guys are using kits out of the box with equal lenght hoses. To imply no lean spikes is a little confusing when the average Joe see's them on a dyno sheet.
Torque spike, what I refer to as a torque spike is the n/a torque with the full torque output of n2o added on top. Breaking this up with dual stg (half of your torque coming on above torque peak) or progressive will bring this intial torque spike down to levels that won't break parts as easy and be a little easier on non forged engines. Not to mention the fact that spreading the torque through out run will normally win a race.
Sorry I was a little grumpy this morning.
Robert

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Robert,
Yes sometimes you will see a very small lean spike for s split second.Of course this is no big deal and will not hurt anything.However on most applications the lean spike is not all that common.On all the cars we put on the dyno not all them have this small spike.
Now for what you keep calling a torque spike im confused.
On most applications we activate the system at 3,000 RPMs The torque curve climbs just like the HP.However the torque is usually greater than the HP gain.This is why I claim a wet system will run better track times with traction permitting.

Reading what you are saying Im guessing you are calling the high torque a spike but thats not what a splike is. A spike is litterally a sudden jump up and then back down.Is this what you mean.

If you are talking about the torque curve you are currect this is why on a larger size shot where people can not hit it comming out of the hole for traction reasons they run it in a dual stage or use a progressive unit.
Torque is what moves mass am I wrong? Horse power helps but torque is what gets it moving.Now if you plant all that HP and Torque to the ground you will run faster.If your car is not set up to handle it well then thats a different story.

My arguement is this.
If you take the same car put a dry shot on it.Then take that same car and put a wet kit on it.Lets say both jetted at 150hp rear wheel. Now this car has traction(big Factor) The pass with the wet system will run a faster time.The reason why is the torque making for a better 60 foot time.The 60 foot is where 3 quarters of the race is.

I may be on a different page so dont get fustrated with me.LOL
Are we talking about the same thing or am I way off beat here?
Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

No we are talking about the same thing. You'll usually see your torque peak at about average lets say 4300rpm, now from there it starts droping through ou the rest of run. If you can maintain that torque for a longer period of time you'll run faster than using torque peak in early part of run. Like you said torque moves mass and if you can keep torque high for longer, the mass will over all, be moved quicker. That's why progressive's are so sweet and 2 or 3 stage set-ups. Doesn't a dyno of a progressive show a flatter/longer torque line than a normal torque peak then drop off. Now we are talking mostly on bigger shots, because we do want a good 60'er. Even a good torque producing 150 shot I believe would be benificial in splitting the torque up somewhat on street/strip car that needs to last, and will still run as fast or faster than all torque at once.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Ok Im lost.LOL

I see what you are saying but I do not see where this comes into play with the original statement.The torque curve depends on different set ups.I have seen different cam and head combos create different HP and expecially torque curves.
The original statement on my part was that a wet kit will produce better torque than a dry kit.Creating better track times than a dry with traction permitting.Even with a progressive unit.
However using a progressive unit on a dyno is not recommended.It will not give accurate readings.
Today is crazy and my mind is just not here but let me know where Im confused.I know you are trying to make a point to me and im sure there is logic in it.Its just not hitting me right.
Have we moved on to dicussing how a progressive unti can help on spreading out the torque and HP gain? Or are we sill talking about the gain differences between wet and dry.I sware im not being a smart elic.Im just alittle confused.
Dave

David@TNT

Well if your interested in my oppinion, then racing is all dangerous.. But its all about the saftey precautions taken to keep a smile on your face and a bed to go home to.. Now having that said dry kits will work great, but it also depends on how much you would like to spray?? Dry has some major pros and less cons than wet.. We know this because we have put 600hp dry through a small block, but still allways like to use the wet kit for the tuning simplicity.. Now if your just putting 75-150hp on your car, dry is fast simple and very effective and I would just keep what you have.. Now if your wanting to use 250hp, dry is just as effective but your tuning skills need to be more than adequate, while wet you are plugging your a/f with the nozzle.. We have built quite a reputation of making lots of safe power when done correctly, so yes wet can be very safe with the correct precautions.. The advantage we have over the other "wet" companies is our nozzle design and our pattent of hard mounting a nozzle between the throttle body and the MAF hence the reason why others offer a "rubber boot to jam the nozzles in" hoping that it dosent come out and burn your car down.. Now 4 some thats fine and dandy so go with the "cheap" kit.. We perfer to use a billit alum ring that hard mounts the nozzles from turning, moving, or falling out of the intake track while spraying fuel & nitrous.. Now yes these knock off kits are cheaper but you get what you pay for, and "I myself am to broke to buy cheap parts" thats a quote from 1 of our customers.. Just my .02

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

David,
I read your post and can not help but respond to it.I know that the kit you are reffering to is the recent dual nozzle kit that we offered with a smooth bellow.I just thought that I would say this.Yes I like the TNT kit its a nice kit.So I do not have anything negative to say.
Just want to simply state this.
Single nozzle and dual nozzle kits have been designed and sold from NX for years.These kits use a two way locking nut.With this billit nut there is no way that the nozzle can twist or back out.This is also the same nut that comes with the dual nozzle kit and smooth bellow upgrade.The smooth bellow is nice and firm, these nuts lock the nozzle in it very firmly.
We do not offer subpar kits or we would be carrying someother brands that are offered to cut retail cost.
Our kit is far from using cheap parts.There all NX parts.Other than the slp smooth bellows.
Thanks
Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I think it turned into more of a general disscussion. Here's another interesting idea. Let's use the same car, same day, wet vs dry. I still believe a dry will give the same power as wet when both are tuned/jetted to the same hp and a/f. Could have them both mounted and do back to backs.