Maximizer II... Questions & Comments
06-28-2005, 11:03 PM
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Maximizer II... Questions & Comments Sorry for the long post! But, anyone used it yet?? 'cause I got a couple of questions:
Bottle Pressure...
I called NX and asked them how the Maxmizer II reads the n2o pressure. The guy on the other end said that the pressure transducer sends it to the Maximizer. I asked him if it's that thing that I got in my GenX kit; he replied, "yes." Ok, great. WRONG! The plug on the end of "wire #5" is exactly the same as the one that I got with my AutoMeter electric pressure gauge. So, the question is, where should I get this electric pressure sensor? AutoMeter? or NX? Or does AutoMeter supply NX's? My bottle is also further than 4 feet away from the Maximizer, so I'll need an "extension cord."
Ignition retard...
Where would I connect these wires? The wiring diagram... http://www.fjoracing.com/products/Ma...nual rev A.pdf ... reads, "#1 IGNITION RETARD trigger output (wht/gry)" and "#2 IGNITION RETARD trigger output (wht/grn)" ... two things: white/gray is written in GREEN and the white/grn is written in GRAY. So, which wire would I use for my first stage??? Also, where do I connect it?
WOT switch...
Can I just trash it? Or should I still use it? Wouldn't the TPS input [to Maxmizer II] take care of all that for me? I don't like the WOT switch anyway. Now only to figure out where to tap into for the TPS.
Comments...
So far installing everything has been easy. It's a lot of obvious stuff, but doing the wiring for the connector (Solenoid driver to solenoids) was not easy. I didn't know you had to put the rubber on first, then the connector, and THEN crimp the metal piece onto the wire. It's backwards from all the other connectors NX has provided.
Pushing the solenoid driver wire through my firewall... was a BITCH! My hole is exactly one inch. I drilled it for all my AutoMeter crap and that's what their instructions said to use -- 1". Make it bigger? Hell no. I got it through, but only after half-way disassembling the connector, and pushed it through sideways.
Maximzer vs Maxmizer II... The second is much better for people who already installed their n2o kit without a controller. I prepared my car for the original Maximizer and un-did a lot of wiring. Had I only known about Maxmizer II's diagram, I would have saved a lot of time. It's almost Plug and Play. But for people upgrading from the old [Maximizer] to the new, have fun!
Software... it's fantastic! I've only played around with it a little but the look & feel is much better than the original. Unfortunately though, I was hoping it could do more as far as progressing. I'd really like to be able to punch in an equation, such as (1-sqrt(1 - x^2)) and have my solenoids pump that out... kinda simulate turbo lag 'cause I like the way a turboed car feels after boost hits. Also, I'd like to be able to type in my RPMs instead of always using the mouse... there's a few little usability things wrong, but it's still leaps and bounds ahead of the original.
Thanks everyone!
-somebody
Bottle Pressure...
I called NX and asked them how the Maxmizer II reads the n2o pressure. The guy on the other end said that the pressure transducer sends it to the Maximizer. I asked him if it's that thing that I got in my GenX kit; he replied, "yes." Ok, great. WRONG! The plug on the end of "wire #5" is exactly the same as the one that I got with my AutoMeter electric pressure gauge. So, the question is, where should I get this electric pressure sensor? AutoMeter? or NX? Or does AutoMeter supply NX's? My bottle is also further than 4 feet away from the Maximizer, so I'll need an "extension cord."
Ignition retard...
Where would I connect these wires? The wiring diagram... http://www.fjoracing.com/products/Ma...nual rev A.pdf ... reads, "#1 IGNITION RETARD trigger output (wht/gry)" and "#2 IGNITION RETARD trigger output (wht/grn)" ... two things: white/gray is written in GREEN and the white/grn is written in GRAY. So, which wire would I use for my first stage??? Also, where do I connect it?
WOT switch...
Can I just trash it? Or should I still use it? Wouldn't the TPS input [to Maxmizer II] take care of all that for me? I don't like the WOT switch anyway. Now only to figure out where to tap into for the TPS.
Comments...
So far installing everything has been easy. It's a lot of obvious stuff, but doing the wiring for the connector (Solenoid driver to solenoids) was not easy. I didn't know you had to put the rubber on first, then the connector, and THEN crimp the metal piece onto the wire. It's backwards from all the other connectors NX has provided.
Pushing the solenoid driver wire through my firewall... was a BITCH! My hole is exactly one inch. I drilled it for all my AutoMeter crap and that's what their instructions said to use -- 1". Make it bigger? Hell no. I got it through, but only after half-way disassembling the connector, and pushed it through sideways.
Maximzer vs Maxmizer II... The second is much better for people who already installed their n2o kit without a controller. I prepared my car for the original Maximizer and un-did a lot of wiring. Had I only known about Maxmizer II's diagram, I would have saved a lot of time. It's almost Plug and Play. But for people upgrading from the old [Maximizer] to the new, have fun!
Software... it's fantastic! I've only played around with it a little but the look & feel is much better than the original. Unfortunately though, I was hoping it could do more as far as progressing. I'd really like to be able to punch in an equation, such as (1-sqrt(1 - x^2)) and have my solenoids pump that out... kinda simulate turbo lag 'cause I like the way a turboed car feels after boost hits. Also, I'd like to be able to type in my RPMs instead of always using the mouse... there's a few little usability things wrong, but it's still leaps and bounds ahead of the original.
Thanks everyone!
-somebody
06-28-2005, 11:13 PM
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I believe the transducer must be purchased from FJO Racing. Im not sure if its a 0-5 volt transducer...and if the autometer is 0-5 volt. If it was you may be able to use it.
You cant currently use ignition retard on the LS1 unless you hook it inline with the Ramchargers Timing Tuner
Yes...you can get rid of your WOT switch and just wire it up to use the TPS input
The wiring is not too hard. of course Im used to wiring aircraft with bundles that have hundreds of wires...but its pretty basic. Just take your time. Let us know how it works. I just sold my Maximizer and will be ordering the Maximizer II next week from Nitro Dave.
You cant currently use ignition retard on the LS1 unless you hook it inline with the Ramchargers Timing Tuner
Yes...you can get rid of your WOT switch and just wire it up to use the TPS input
The wiring is not too hard. of course Im used to wiring aircraft with bundles that have hundreds of wires...but its pretty basic. Just take your time. Let us know how it works. I just sold my Maximizer and will be ordering the Maximizer II next week from Nitro Dave.
06-29-2005, 09:00 AM
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Sorry for the mis information on the transducer for your bottle psi. We do sale those, and it is not the one that work the heater in a Gen-x2. You will not need that sensor if you use the MAX2 to controll the heater. The Set up menu allow the MAX2 to controller your open, heater, and log the psi. Since you mentioned the wring diagram was lacking from the instructions I will see about getting the layout change to include how the connectors go together also. I would get rid of the WOT Switch and use the controllers TPS input to controller the activation of the unit.
Ricky
Ricky
