Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Well long story short i put in a set of solid motor mounts. Took me a total of three nights working a few hours a night and was a PITA to say the least.

Well after it was all done, i took the car for a drive. It is down on power A LOT!!! And if i start driving and then put it back in neutral, the rpms hang at 2000 and wont come down until i am at a complete stop with the e-brake on and then they come down to about 1500 or so. Could i have erased my tune when i disconnected my battery?

I am not throwing a check engine light, and am also getting a really weird vibration that i think is exhaust related on the drivers side (i think the header is hitting the k-member).

Any ideas on what might have happened? At one point i set the motor down on the k-member with only passenger side motor mount installed. could it have crushed the front of the pan up? Maybe the crank is aerating the oil there? Maybe i pinched a wire to a sensor that wouldn't throw a check engine light?

What is going on?

Nate

NVME88GT

Crap, man! I didn't see you mess anything up when you were doing the passenger side. I am inclined to believe the erased tune theory. Call me if you need anything.

Racehead

If your headers or exhaust are hitting ANYTHING, then the ECM is pulling massive amounts of timing trying to combat percieved "Knock". I would start there first. I can't imagine why this would affect the idle though ?? When I disconnect my battery it has to go thru an idle learn procedure which usually entails idling it for a few minutes, driving it around the block, shutting it off, and then restarting it ?

Any pinched off wire to a sensor that was bad enough to render it inop would throw a code.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

Solid motor mounts are a BAD JUJU unless you have a solid roller motor. The solid mounts transfer all the vibration to the knock sensors. And like bill said, the PCM is pulling massive amounts of timing on you.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Looks like you have got good advise! Leave the solid mounts to the race cars. The Vibes you are feeling are from the total lack of dampening. Poly is a much better trade off.

BTW there is no way to 'loose' your tune with out flashing or destroing the PCM. You will 'loose' all the learned info as far as trims and offsets but the base tune you loded is there.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

That's what i thought ellis, but the cam was just shaking the snot out of the motor in the engine bay and i really dont mind the shake at all. Can i just tune out my knock sensors???

Before the motor mounts when data logging with jay, i did not have 1 knock during multiple 1/2 hour drives of beating the **** out of it.

I still don't get why the rpms would hang for the idle.

Do you have damned hp tuners for a 98 yet?

Nate

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

I don't know man, maybe i'm bad luck with gm's

Tranzor

I have poly motor mounts and with those all the shake in my motor went away... they're great! I couldn't imagine with solid mounts though. Like the other said, that lack of dampening would be real bad for the sensors...

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

I think i have several problems going on at once. My battery died which would explain the weird idle (as per the search function) and i'll just delete my knock sensors when i get this biatch fully tuned.

Solid motor mounts are fuggin awesome though, doesn't shake the car anymore, car feels a lot more solid as does the shifter, and it allows a whole lot more room in there come time to do whatever i please.

Nate

Silverhawk_02TA

Killing the knock sensors is a bad idea- they may just save your motor one day. All it would take is one tank full of bad gas to ruin your motor. During logging just the other week I noticed that after I filled her up (same station and octane as usual) I was getting some heavy knock retard in 6th going up any sort of incline on the highway, bad enough I had to drop it into 5th (and 4th a couple times) to keep heavy load off the engine and control the detonation. After I burned off that tank, I filled it up at a different station, and the problem went away. Just a case of bad gas, but I don't like to think about what could have happened to my motor if KR was disabled. Just something to keep in mind.

I'd also have to agree with the false knock due to the solid mounts theory. Why'd you go with solid's and not poly's? In my (somewhat limited ) experience, solid motor mounts are pretty much relegated to race only cars, and definitely bad news for an engine that uses knock sensors.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Don't knock it til you tried it...this will be my third car with solids, they just feel so much better than stockers it's unbelievable. I fixed most of the problem with the exhaust hitting the body, now i just have to notch the k-member a little to keep the driver side header from hitting the k-member.

Seems like the car is driving better with most of the problem fixed.

But now i have to figure out if my alternator or battery took a ****. I'm pretty sure it's my alternator because when i finally get the car to start the voltage indicates like 10.5 volts. So i figure the alternator got killed somehow in the swap

Nate

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Well you have proven you can not listen to advise.

I guess that sum's that up!

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

I found the problem anyway, i stupidly ripped out the voltage regulator wire for the alternator. Repinned the wire and the car runs fine now. Thanks for all the help guys.

Nate

NVME88GT

No, no, no...you are an idiot for putting solid motor mounts in your daily driver!

*Thinks about solid mounts in my daily....*

Oh yeah, its no big deal.

SeaHawk

iTrader: (1)

lol!

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

And i can't take advice about putting in solid motor mounts what a bunch of weenies!!! I thought you guys were supposed to be hardcore?

Besides, if you're not daily driving a race car, you might as well be driving a honda accord

Nate

jimbob

iTrader: (4)

Actually, we are...That is why you don't use them (been there done that, you know when 3/4 race cam terms were all the rage)...We have found that putting neo motor mount on drivers side only works just as well (well, atleast on a Ryan's "Nine" second 98 f body "Streetcar") while keeping some of the smoothness these engine are known for, just for those longer stuck in traffic days...

Jimbob (old bastard that's been making f body's scream sense 1995, just look at my sig)

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Yup your right. Been racing since your momma was wiping your *** and not a damn clue on how to get it done.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

uh oh...i think i hit a soft spot with you ellis.

Nate

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Nope just telling it like it is

You call me a Wussy and say I should not "knock it till I try it" so I thought I would share a little insite. Nothing more nothing less Solid mounts are for stupid people and race cars what can I say? I Guess you have a race car right? Funny I thought race cars were fast?

Knowledge is a wonderful thing ...... if you use it