How many washers to put in the TransGo setup?
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How many washers to put in the TransGo setup?
I know the TransGo shift kit has (I believe) a 3-washer setup for their shift firmness. From what I've read, 3 is absolutely brutal and almost too much for 95% of people. So I'm likely going with 1, maybe 2.
I want crisper shifts at partial throttle, but not too hard because it's my daily driver. But at WOT, I want more neck-snapping shifts. (As long as it's still healthy for the tranny).
How many washers are you guys running in your kits and how do you like it?
I want crisper shifts at partial throttle, but not too hard because it's my daily driver. But at WOT, I want more neck-snapping shifts. (As long as it's still healthy for the tranny).
How many washers are you guys running in your kits and how do you like it?
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If your installing it with a 3,000+ stall, I would go with 3 washers. I installed my 3,500 stall and trans go at about 5-7,000 miles and I don't think that the shift is all that hard with 3 washers. Could actually be alittle harder I think.
As far as the tranny lasting with 3 washers, mine has been through hell and back and it's still hanging in.
As far as the tranny lasting with 3 washers, mine has been through hell and back and it's still hanging in.
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I have a shallow 700R4 accumulator cover and one washer. Thats equal to the tall cover and two washers.
I also blocked the fourth accumulator feed with a transgo plug. You can also block it with a 1/4" vb checkball I've heard.
You can also block the piston movement with two gen 1 sbc rocker nuts and one rod bolt nut. No joke they're the right height, but thats if you really want to rig it.
I also blocked the fourth accumulator feed with a transgo plug. You can also block it with a 1/4" vb checkball I've heard.
You can also block the piston movement with two gen 1 sbc rocker nuts and one rod bolt nut. No joke they're the right height, but thats if you really want to rig it.
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Originally Posted by jxaxsxoxn
I have a shallow 700R4 accumulator cover and one washer. Thats equal to the tall cover and two washers.
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So some of you are saying to go with all 3? I'm still not sure, because I have to drive this car back and forth from college and in the rain, snow, sleet, etc up and down hills, on the highway. EVERYWHERE. It's just a high 12s at best car we're talking about here.
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
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Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
So some of you are saying to go with all 3? I'm still not sure, because I have to drive this car back and forth from college and in the rain, snow, sleet, etc up and down hills, on the highway. EVERYWHERE. It's just a high 12s at best car we're talking about here.
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
Do you know with the transgo 1&2 kit (for the th400) they include two sets of valve body gaskets? Why? So you can take the vb plate off to make changes if needed.
Now why do they say install one to three washers? Why don't they just give you one big spacer? Well because you need to fine tune it to your personal taste, how you want it to feel when it shifts.
To change the washers you need to take the pan off and remove three bolts, not the most difficult thing to do.
I took my whole vb off and re-did a few things when I put my kit in. Just to get it to where it felt the way I wanted it to feel when it shifts.
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Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
So some of you are saying to go with all 3? I'm still not sure, because I have to drive this car back and forth from college and in the rain, snow, sleet, etc up and down hills, on the highway. EVERYWHERE. It's just a high 12s at best car we're talking about here.
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
Also, I thought you weren't supposed to raise line pressure AND add a shift kit, since the kit physically boosts pressure and the tuning does it through the computer. Everyone else on here has said that that's the perfect way to blow a transmission.
Lastly, how does the kit allow you to have different firmnesses of shifts at partial and WOT shifts?
Take my word on it, I drove mine to work daily communting 25mins between cities. You'll be asking yourself if you can put 4 or 5 washers in. It at the time was only a 13.0 car. It's not as bad as youre thinking. 3 is just nice, doesnt take any driveability away from the car.
You'll mostly feel it only at WOT, which is great. You wouldnt want to be flooring it in bad weater anyways, so it wont affect driveability.
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They put mine in when my tranny was built so I'm not sure. I do know with a converter your shifts are going to be much looser than they are now, so I'd go 3 washers (what I believe mine has in it) to accomidate for the looser shifts from the converter. If you're worried 2 minimum. Not worth doing and just throwing one washer in there IMO.
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what no one mentioned to scotty was that it shifts pretty normal when you drive it normal. Its only really hard when you stab the gas. I think this is the question he is asking since he keeps saying he has to drive it everyday.
Scotty you will be fine with 3 and it doesnt shift harsh at all when you do normal driving, now if your foot gets a bit heavy than you will really see the difference between one washer or 3.
Scotty you will be fine with 3 and it doesnt shift harsh at all when you do normal driving, now if your foot gets a bit heavy than you will really see the difference between one washer or 3.
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Good point Buba. Thinking about it, my car just has a nice little slip under regular shifting, but at WOT it shifts very firm and positive (not neck-snapping but its a very nice feeling). I'd do three first Scotty, then if its too much get in there and take one out. Just my two pennies though.
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Another thing no one mentioned was how big are the feed holes in the seperator plate going to be drilled and what servo is being used. Sure you can pile in three washers with a stock 553 servo and stock or small second gear feed holes.
But put in a billet super servo and drill the second feed as big as you can and one washer is going to feel very firm.
I've experimented with different things before, I blocked the movement of the second accumulator by using 3/8 nuts on the pin (much like the spacers in a B&M kit) and it was annoying as hell. It would chirp the tires at 5% throttle, and this was with a 553 servo and .110 second feed.
What the transgo washers do is limit the movement of the piston and tighten the spring.
But put in a billet super servo and drill the second feed as big as you can and one washer is going to feel very firm.
I've experimented with different things before, I blocked the movement of the second accumulator by using 3/8 nuts on the pin (much like the spacers in a B&M kit) and it was annoying as hell. It would chirp the tires at 5% throttle, and this was with a 553 servo and .110 second feed.
What the transgo washers do is limit the movement of the piston and tighten the spring.
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Originally Posted by jxaxsxoxn
Another thing no one mentioned was how big are the feed holes in the seperator plate going to be drilled and what servo is being used. Sure you can pile in three washers with a stock 553 servo and stock or small second gear feed holes.
But put in a billet super servo and drill the second feed as big as you can and one washer is going to feel very firm.
I've experimented with different things before, I blocked the movement of the second accumulator by using 3/8 nuts on the pin (much like the spacers in a B&M kit) and it was annoying as hell. It would chirp the tires at 5% throttle, and this was with a 553 servo and .110 second feed.
What the transgo washers do is limit the movement of the piston and tighten the spring.
But put in a billet super servo and drill the second feed as big as you can and one washer is going to feel very firm.
I've experimented with different things before, I blocked the movement of the second accumulator by using 3/8 nuts on the pin (much like the spacers in a B&M kit) and it was annoying as hell. It would chirp the tires at 5% throttle, and this was with a 553 servo and .110 second feed.
What the transgo washers do is limit the movement of the piston and tighten the spring.
But I don't want it chirping into 2nd at 5% throttle like you said. That's simply ridiculous. I only want it chirping second when I get on it at maybe 60% throttle or more, something like that. So what would I tell the installer as far as how much to drill the holes and such?
Thanks guys.
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1) you are way over thinking this. you have a 4L60e with stock programing. a shift kit with 2 or 3 washers isnt going to give you a hard shift at ALL at part throttle. just a little bit more than stock.
2) look up my friend "Stu's WS6" - named travis and in the same area as you on this board. probably know him. he knows his autos and his ls1s. PM him or something.
again you are way over thinking this. hell if anything you are gonna be disapponted with teh shift firmness after building it up so much. my tranny (read my first reply) doesnt chirp anything. that is a line pressure issue.
2) look up my friend "Stu's WS6" - named travis and in the same area as you on this board. probably know him. he knows his autos and his ls1s. PM him or something.
again you are way over thinking this. hell if anything you are gonna be disapponted with teh shift firmness after building it up so much. my tranny (read my first reply) doesnt chirp anything. that is a line pressure issue.
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I barely even chirp at WOT so I think you're a little more worried about it than you need to be. Honestly it's not a night and day difference, but it does feel a little better with a more "solid" shift, ESPECIALLY if you're going to do a converter (as it loosens things up). If you throw three in there and its too much then you know it's too much and can take one out. If you throw two in and it feels good you might wonder what it would feel like with three, if it would feel better. Might as well just get the wondering out of the way IMO.
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Originally Posted by BubaGumpShrimp
what no one mentioned to scotty was that it shifts pretty normal when you drive it normal. Its only really hard when you stab the gas. I think this is the question he is asking since he keeps saying he has to drive it everyday.
Scotty you will be fine with 3 and it doesnt shift harsh at all when you do normal driving, now if your foot gets a bit heavy than you will really see the difference between one washer or 3.
Scotty you will be fine with 3 and it doesnt shift harsh at all when you do normal driving, now if your foot gets a bit heavy than you will really see the difference between one washer or 3.
Originally Posted by aNuBiS
You'll mostly feel it only at WOT, which is great. You wouldnt want to be flooring it in bad weater anyways, so it wont affect driveability.