strobelite

Right now i have a 2500 stall converter. I have no suspension upgrades what soever. What direction do YOU think I should go. Taller stall, possible 3200-3600. Or should I go with some suspension upgrades?

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

get that 60 ft down however possible, that's where your times come into play. Be it tires, suspension pieces or what not, i think your stall is hurting you but not much.

My vote is for suspension and 60' goodies...even though a converter will help with your 60' it wont help it like gears and tires will.

Nate

strobelite

Yeah, I agree. I did have a 1.64 60 ft. on 1 run only to be nullified by my computer not shifting 1-2 lol To be fixed soon. ellis can explain the reasoning there. What do you think now with a possible 1.64 60 ft. Right now?

Rokko

iTrader: (2)

suspension, get that power to the ground.

howierd42

First thing I did to my car was suspension. I wanted to make sure the car was going to stay on the ground, and that is a lot of power to be playing with.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

**** with some more suspension work and tuning out that glitch, i don't see why 1.6x's are a problem. are you spraying out of the hole?

with a 1.65 or so you are looking at an 11.7 or better car.

Nate

strobelite

Yeah, I am spraying out of the hole, Well on the 1.64 I did after that I came out about 2 car lengths and let it go. What do you mean by...

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

With a 1.64 I wouldn't worry about converter If you don't have SFC's and your cars a driver I'd recommend those. But I'd probably do suspension at your point if it were me. Big converters are fun though, I went from a Neal racing 2200 to a vigillante 3200 in my 93 and it made a ridiculous difference...

kickassT/A

iTrader: (3)

converter willl make the biggest difference on the street. i like my 3600 vig, but if i had to guess, it's not really a 3600. bobby can tell you, it flashes waaaay to high to be a 3600. like 5200. i have the only auto that like to go from a roll

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

LOL I'm too busy trying to get my eyeballs to come back forward when I step on the gas in your car to know what the tach is reading. But yes it does flash high.

For a first time stall owner on a mild street car I wouldn't go higher than 3200 but I also run a little baby cam too

strobelite

i have a 2500 stall already in the vehicle. and i also have a monster cam. 236/242

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I'd do the suspension next. BEFORE you tear your car apart. Running 1.6 60's WILL twist that f-body apart. Then you can add all the go-fast goodies you want. I am adding the s/c (125+hp) and can still spray if I want & my car will take it. The way it goes down the track right now, ANYONE could drive it. Straight, stable, safe....

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Well with Juice your ride is probably stretching your converter MUCH higher then 2,500 You go much higher and it could get nasty. N2O converters are much tighter then N/A converters.

So I would say start making things stronger

strobelite

So what are the first few things I need to buy, (Starting with the most important first).??

Wanna hear a good one??? On my all motor 12.93 run I had a 1.82 60 ft. On my 12.137 i had a 1.86 60 ft

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Since you said you didn't spray out of the hole, I'm not surpised.

As for the list, these are the things I'd do (close to order of imortance) - and not knowing what you might have already:

SFCs - most people say weld-ins are the only way to go. But since the SLP bolt-ins also attach to the drive shaft loop mounts, they end up being almost as strong. And box style are supposed to be stronger than tubes.

LCAs - they do a lot to reduce wheel hop. If your car is lowered (or will be) you will need relocation brackets to keep the proper trajectory. If you only plan to drag race, solid ones are fine. If you plan to road race, get ones with hyme joint ends.

Torque Arm - supposed to help keep the pinion from moving & again, if you lower the car, and adjustable one is the way to go.

Rear sway bar - again for drag racing, a 25mm bar will help your launches.

Shocks - get some adjustable ones if you can afford them. That way you can go stiff for the track, and softer for everyday drving.

Springs - for the rear, the stock ones are supposed to be great for drag racing. I bought Eibachs for the look, and have had NO problems with them. But then I have all of the above mentioned items.

Tires - my Nittos hook almost as good as my QTPs.

Can you do more? Yes. A cage will really siffen things up. And some people say removing the front sway bar helps. I've tried stock, none, and a 35mm front bar & saw no change. And if you get nuts, you can throw an air bag in the RR coil spring too. And other people removed their STB too. Did it help? Hard to say. I would NOT drive mine that way on the street. It gets jerked around too much on the highway by the ruts.

And spraying really increases your torque, so the more you do, the happier your car will be. I'm not guaranteeing any of these will make a dramatic improvement on your et, but it will reduce parts breakage.

And if you are still running your stock rear end, make plans to upgrade / replace that too. Cause it will break under that load....it's only a matter of time.