Any advice/tips for a cam install newbie?
07-08-2005, 08:25 PM
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Any advice/tips for a cam install newbie? Hey guys, I just ordered my cam today 
Getting a Torquer 2 ground on a 114 lsa to smooth out the idle. I've read the excellent install document on ls1howto.com about 10 times already. I'm pretty confident I can do this in a couple of days. Just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on how I can make the install go as smooth as possible.
I've got a couple questions too:
1. Apparantley, the longer bolt method for the crank pulley re-install is not the method of choice anymore. Can anyone give me any more info on the 'threaded rod' method.
2. The rest of my mods are in the sig. would I benefit from a 25% underdrive pulley? Even if there aren't any significant performance gains, if the install might be somehow easier to put this in over re-using the stock pulley I'd buy one.
This is the list of 'misc. tools' I've compiled so far:
Larry tool to hold the lifters in place
spring change tool
3 jaw puller
Anybody think of anything else that would help out a lot?
Thanks in advance for all the help. I'm gonna tackle this install August 15, and am giving myself a full ten days to install it.
Getting a Torquer 2 ground on a 114 lsa to smooth out the idle. I've read the excellent install document on ls1howto.com about 10 times already. I'm pretty confident I can do this in a couple of days. Just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on how I can make the install go as smooth as possible.
I've got a couple questions too:
1. Apparantley, the longer bolt method for the crank pulley re-install is not the method of choice anymore. Can anyone give me any more info on the 'threaded rod' method.
2. The rest of my mods are in the sig. would I benefit from a 25% underdrive pulley? Even if there aren't any significant performance gains, if the install might be somehow easier to put this in over re-using the stock pulley I'd buy one.
This is the list of 'misc. tools' I've compiled so far:
Larry tool to hold the lifters in place
spring change tool
3 jaw puller
Anybody think of anything else that would help out a lot?
Thanks in advance for all the help. I'm gonna tackle this install August 15, and am giving myself a full ten days to install it.
07-08-2005, 08:37 PM
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Your post is slightly confusing, the Larry tool is to change springs, not to hold the lifters in place. I have done over 30 cam installs using the threaded(longer rod method) install with no problems. The GM puller(that is on the Snap on truck etc. makes removing the stock pully a breeze, dont know if this is what you have?) 10 days??? My bud and I do cam/spring installs in 4-5hrs so you should be good.......
07-08-2005, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
Hey guys, I just ordered my cam today
Getting a Torquer 2 ground on a 114 lsa to smooth out the idle. I've read the excellent install document on ls1howto.com about 10 times already. I'm pretty confident I can do this in a couple of days. Just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on how I can make the install go as smooth as possible.
I've got a couple questions too:
1. Apparantley, the longer bolt method for the crank pulley re-install is not the method of choice anymore. Can anyone give me any more info on the 'threaded rod' method.
2. The rest of my mods are in the sig. would I benefit from a 25% underdrive pulley? Even if there aren't any significant performance gains, if the install might be somehow easier to put this in over re-using the stock pulley I'd buy one.
This is the list of 'misc. tools' I've compiled so far:
Larry tool to hold the lifters in place The JPR tool or pen magnets hold the lifters in place
spring change tool This is the Larry tool. Good choice, as it's "hands free" I tried the MORE performance tool listed in LS1howto. Bad idea. It wants to slip off the retainers and makes install a real biotch, like 45min-1hr per spring!!
3 jaw puller
Anybody think of anything else that would help out a lot?
Blue Locktite for the cam bolts.
Copper RTV for the front cover.
New gaskets for safety sake.
1 Gallon anti-freeze.
An ARP balancer bolt if you can get it. Better than the stock one.
Air compressor and cylnder leak down line with schrader valve removed to fill cylinders with compressed air when changing springs.
A big air ratchet to remove the crank bolt.
Thanks in advance for all the help. I'm gonna tackle this install August 15, and am giving myself a full ten days to install it.
Getting a Torquer 2 ground on a 114 lsa to smooth out the idle. I've read the excellent install document on ls1howto.com about 10 times already. I'm pretty confident I can do this in a couple of days. Just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on how I can make the install go as smooth as possible.
I've got a couple questions too:
1. Apparantley, the longer bolt method for the crank pulley re-install is not the method of choice anymore. Can anyone give me any more info on the 'threaded rod' method.
2. The rest of my mods are in the sig. would I benefit from a 25% underdrive pulley? Even if there aren't any significant performance gains, if the install might be somehow easier to put this in over re-using the stock pulley I'd buy one.
This is the list of 'misc. tools' I've compiled so far:
Larry tool to hold the lifters in place The JPR tool or pen magnets hold the lifters in place
spring change tool This is the Larry tool. Good choice, as it's "hands free" I tried the MORE performance tool listed in LS1howto. Bad idea. It wants to slip off the retainers and makes install a real biotch, like 45min-1hr per spring!!
3 jaw puller
Anybody think of anything else that would help out a lot?
Blue Locktite for the cam bolts.
Copper RTV for the front cover.
New gaskets for safety sake.
1 Gallon anti-freeze.
An ARP balancer bolt if you can get it. Better than the stock one.
Air compressor and cylnder leak down line with schrader valve removed to fill cylinders with compressed air when changing springs.
A big air ratchet to remove the crank bolt.
Thanks in advance for all the help. I'm gonna tackle this install August 15, and am giving myself a full ten days to install it.
07-08-2005, 09:01 PM
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07-08-2005, 10:26 PM
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Thanks guys. Yeah, my bad about the Larry tool. Just so much damn info and tools out there. The JPR tool is what I meant. For some reason I kept thinking jrp (thought, yeah he's a tool, but don't think there's a tool named after him 
)
Thanks for the advice so far guys, I've got a 35 gallon air compressor, so now might be a good time to pick up some neumatic tools (used it solely for my hvlp gun until now).
Good stuff so far, keep it coming guys!
P.S. Just kidding jrp!
)Thanks for the advice so far guys, I've got a 35 gallon air compressor, so now might be a good time to pick up some neumatic tools (used it solely for my hvlp gun until now).
Good stuff so far, keep it coming guys!
P.S. Just kidding jrp!
07-08-2005, 10:47 PM
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blkz28spt: That link in your sig is very helpful. Thank you. I must have seen you post a hundred times and never bothered to click that link. Install University did not have anything helpful though.
07-09-2005, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
blkz28spt: That link in your sig is very helpful. Thank you. I must have seen you post a hundred times and never bothered to click that link. Install University did not have anything helpful though.
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07-09-2005, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
My approach to a successful cam install, have blkz28spt help.
Wait, where is Rochester MI?
Wait, where is Rochester MI?
That'd be nice, but I'm about 20 minutes North of Detroit. Indiana border is about a 2-3 hr drive I think. Hell, if I'm gonna go that far, I may as well go to Speed Inc in Illinois. Man, I wish there was a kick *** shop with kick *** prices around here. 
07-09-2005, 05:02 PM
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A couple of suggestions. Be careful with the Larry tool. I used one and it was rotating so far that it forced the spring retainer into the valve stem, leaving marks. I ended up putting about a 15 degree bend in the middle of the Larry tool so that the retainer would not rotate as far over when I compressed the spring. Worked like a charm.
If you are planning on a new timing chain, you'll need to remove the oil pump. This is a pain! I used a method some other person showed on this board. You loosen the pick-up tube bolt and tie it with some safety wire under the head. Then you twist it and hold it with some lockwire pliers. It keeps you from losing the bolt down the oil pan. Leave it tied to the safety wire and then use the pliers to hold the bolt in place when you go back together. Make sure you get a small mirror and look 360 degrees around to make sure you don't have the NEW o-ring pooching out anywhere. Took me three tries to get the o-ring in place.
I also bought some 5/16" steel rod from Home Depot and made my own JPR lifter tools. You'll have to grind a flat on one side to get it to insert on the passenger side. Good Luck, it's not hard, just take your time.
If you are planning on a new timing chain, you'll need to remove the oil pump. This is a pain! I used a method some other person showed on this board. You loosen the pick-up tube bolt and tie it with some safety wire under the head. Then you twist it and hold it with some lockwire pliers. It keeps you from losing the bolt down the oil pan. Leave it tied to the safety wire and then use the pliers to hold the bolt in place when you go back together. Make sure you get a small mirror and look 360 degrees around to make sure you don't have the NEW o-ring pooching out anywhere. Took me three tries to get the o-ring in place.
I also bought some 5/16" steel rod from Home Depot and made my own JPR lifter tools. You'll have to grind a flat on one side to get it to insert on the passenger side. Good Luck, it's not hard, just take your time.
07-09-2005, 07:27 PM
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I asked where Rochester was because I'm moving up to Ann Arbor on the 20th. But you'll be doing the install before I move up so my offering to help wouldn't do you much good.
I'm planning on doing an install on my car around the 7th or so, so I'd have a little bit of experience, hopefully.
I'm planning on doing an install on my car around the 7th or so, so I'd have a little bit of experience, hopefully.
07-09-2005, 07:30 PM
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Man, I wish there was a kick *** shop with kick *** prices around here.
07-10-2005, 12:53 AM
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I haven't even checked around to see what shops are charging for the cam install. I knew it would be a lot, so I'm pretty much dead set on doing it myself. It takes basic hand tools, and I'm mechanically inclined, so it shouldn't much trouble. I just wanted to make sure I knew exactly what to expect before hand.
I saw a while back when I was ready for my TC install that Speed Inc only wanted around $250 for labor. Every shop around here, including Livernois wanted $500 and up. I found a good shop anyway to do it for $200, so it all worked out.
Ann Arbor huh, are you going to school there (U of M)? Make sure you let me know how your install goes. Who knows, I may still be working on it by the 20th! If I am, I'll slip you a six pack and a George Washington and you can hook me up.
I saw a while back when I was ready for my TC install that Speed Inc only wanted around $250 for labor. Every shop around here, including Livernois wanted $500 and up. I found a good shop anyway to do it for $200, so it all worked out.
Ann Arbor huh, are you going to school there (U of M)? Make sure you let me know how your install goes. Who knows, I may still be working on it by the 20th! If I am, I'll slip you a six pack and a George Washington and you can hook me up.
07-10-2005, 10:56 AM
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Ann Arbor huh, are you going to school there (U of M)?
07-10-2005, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Shu
I'm going to Purdue this fall!
Same goes for anyone else who will be at or around purdue. You don't even have to be a student to be a member.
07-10-2005, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Be sure to look up our club. Purde automotive performance association, or PAPA for short. Same goes for anyone else who will be at or around purdue. You don't even have to be a student to be a member.
Same goes for anyone else who will be at or around purdue. You don't even have to be a student to be a member.
07-10-2005, 11:50 AM
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Shu, you don't happen to have a soundclip of your car do you? I'm planning on putting an F13 in about a week before class starts but I'm still trying to decide if that's what I want to do.
07-10-2005, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
Shu, you don't happen to have a soundclip of your car do you? I'm planning on putting an F13 in about a week before class starts but I'm still trying to decide if that's what I want to do.
