Are my hydraulics shot?
07-12-2005, 01:00 PM
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Are my hydraulics shot? Hey all, I've been on here on the manual transmission boards lately. I've got clutch hydraulics on my 98 LS1 that either needs a MAJOR bleeding or are shot. My guess is totally shot, but I want to make sure I am doing everything right first.
I am trying to do the mityvac method for clutch bleeding. I put my clutch pedal to the floor (and it stays there because it has no return travel right now) and I use the mityvac to pull a vaccum on the master cylinder. The vaccum holds at 20-25 typically, until I grab the clutch pedal with my hand and pull up on it. This lets everything equalize I guess, and the mityvac pressure drops some as I hear the clutch fluid moving around within the cylinders from inside the cabin. Last night I was alternating between pulling a 25psi vaccum with the clutch all the way to the floor, then raising the clutch so the pressure drops to around 10, then pushing it back in to maintain the vaccum. From there I pump it back up to 25psi and repeat the process. I can get some (very black) clutch fluid and some air to come out when I do this, and I am refilling lost clutch fluid while I do this, but still no progress whatsoever towards getting the clutch to work as it used to.
If this doesn't work, where the hell is the bleeder for the system? Does it have to be accessed from under the car? I think it's supposed to be a couple inches above where the line goes into the slave cylinder.
I have a shopping list of about $915 built up so far for an upgraded slave, ram adj master, ram pg hd clutch, and ram billet flywheel.......but I don't want to spend this unless I absolutely have to. (I realize I am buying more parts than necessary, but if I swap part of the clutch out I might as well swap the rest).
But in the meantime, I think I am bleeding the clutch wrong and I was wondering if anyone could give me any insight. Is there a step I am missing that I would have to do with the mity vac, or have I just described the correct way to bleed it, and it's not working? I have already read Buschman's and jmx's clutch bleed method and am trying to follow concepts from that, but can anyone help me out or tell me why this isn't working?
Otherwise I guess it's time to drop $1k on parts and who knows how much labor and get that clutch....just a lot sooner than I wanted.
I am trying to do the mityvac method for clutch bleeding. I put my clutch pedal to the floor (and it stays there because it has no return travel right now) and I use the mityvac to pull a vaccum on the master cylinder. The vaccum holds at 20-25 typically, until I grab the clutch pedal with my hand and pull up on it. This lets everything equalize I guess, and the mityvac pressure drops some as I hear the clutch fluid moving around within the cylinders from inside the cabin. Last night I was alternating between pulling a 25psi vaccum with the clutch all the way to the floor, then raising the clutch so the pressure drops to around 10, then pushing it back in to maintain the vaccum. From there I pump it back up to 25psi and repeat the process. I can get some (very black) clutch fluid and some air to come out when I do this, and I am refilling lost clutch fluid while I do this, but still no progress whatsoever towards getting the clutch to work as it used to.
If this doesn't work, where the hell is the bleeder for the system? Does it have to be accessed from under the car? I think it's supposed to be a couple inches above where the line goes into the slave cylinder.
I have a shopping list of about $915 built up so far for an upgraded slave, ram adj master, ram pg hd clutch, and ram billet flywheel.......but I don't want to spend this unless I absolutely have to. (I realize I am buying more parts than necessary, but if I swap part of the clutch out I might as well swap the rest).
But in the meantime, I think I am bleeding the clutch wrong and I was wondering if anyone could give me any insight. Is there a step I am missing that I would have to do with the mity vac, or have I just described the correct way to bleed it, and it's not working? I have already read Buschman's and jmx's clutch bleed method and am trying to follow concepts from that, but can anyone help me out or tell me why this isn't working?
Otherwise I guess it's time to drop $1k on parts and who knows how much labor and get that clutch....just a lot sooner than I wanted.
07-13-2005, 10:13 AM
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Launching!
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In my first post, I never described the culprit for the clutch going out. The clutch engagement point has always been low ever since I got the vehicle with 48,000 miles on it. Now in the last 1000 miles or so, the engagement point has gotten to be only an inch or two off the floor, with the clutch finally sticking to the floor as of late. This is what is causing all my problems. It had seemed to work itself out twice since then because I was able to get it started driving around, and I added more fluid and it acted like a clutch should, but this time around no matter what I do I can't get the clutch to come off the floor (other than physically pulling it up).
Anyone have any ideas? I really don't want to go through the process of buying a new clutch system if I don't have to....
Anyone have any ideas? I really don't want to go through the process of buying a new clutch system if I don't have to....
07-13-2005, 10:07 PM
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so the stock clutch has only been good for 66,000 miles?! 
man, that just seems like a short time span. I knew it would be "sooner or later" but I didnt' know it would just go out that quickly at 66k. the damn thing still grabs when it works right, it's just that I can't seem to do that anymore...of course when it comes to clutches i don't have a f*cking clue what I'm doing. I'm still going to try to bleed this somehow if someone gives me some tips of where I was going wrong earlier. At the very least if it worked a little bit I would be able to limp it in (40 miles) to my mechanic.
anyone's input that might be able to shed some info on what I'm doing wrong on the clutch bleed would be heavily appreciated. but I am starting to face the reality that I might have to end up doing this.
man, that just seems like a short time span. I knew it would be "sooner or later" but I didnt' know it would just go out that quickly at 66k. the damn thing still grabs when it works right, it's just that I can't seem to do that anymore...of course when it comes to clutches i don't have a f*cking clue what I'm doing. I'm still going to try to bleed this somehow if someone gives me some tips of where I was going wrong earlier. At the very least if it worked a little bit I would be able to limp it in (40 miles) to my mechanic.
anyone's input that might be able to shed some info on what I'm doing wrong on the clutch bleed would be heavily appreciated. but I am starting to face the reality that I might have to end up doing this.
07-14-2005, 06:02 AM
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Man 66K on a stock clutch!?! That's great! That is a LOT of miles especially if you drive it pretty hard. I only have 51K on my 98 and I've been through probably seven different clutches.
The way I do it and the way the GM service manual says to do it is to pump the clutch pedal slowly a few times and hold it to the floor. Then have someone crack the bleeder on the slave. Repeat a few times while keeping an eye on your fluid level in the reservoir. I've never used a mighty vac for that so I can't help you there. I've installed a lot of clutches and never had a bleeding problem.
The way I do it and the way the GM service manual says to do it is to pump the clutch pedal slowly a few times and hold it to the floor. Then have someone crack the bleeder on the slave. Repeat a few times while keeping an eye on your fluid level in the reservoir. I've never used a mighty vac for that so I can't help you there. I've installed a lot of clutches and never had a bleeding problem.