camzaro28

started to take tranny out tonite. not sure if i am getting into more then i need to. i am trying to save 250$, but i am not sure if its going to be worth it in the end.
first does the starter need to come off?
where the DS meets, do i take it the 4 bolts that are connected to the tranny? or somewhere else in that crowded area? do i leave the TQ arm in place?
do i take the converter out to get to the 6 bolts in the bellhousing? i havent opened it up yet, just want a heads up if so!
any of you know a site with pictures on this?
anything that i am forgetting, please throw it in.
thanks in advance, and i will be tackling this tomorrow night if i do-do it.

zeeya

iTrader: (1)

Unhook battery. 8mm
Take starter out. 15mm
Take out the torque converter bolts torx bolts
Take driveshaft out. 7/16
Undo the torque arm at the tail housing. pry it past the trans. No need in taking it loose from the rear
unhook shifter
Jack up trans unbolt the 4 cross member bolts and the tranny mount bolt
remove cross member
lower trans
Get a long ext and take your bell housing bolts out
Pull back a little on the trans Lower the jack alittle unhook wire harness and trans cooler lines
Well if you change the stall you really dont need to unhook the cooler lines. Install by first lining up the bell housing and bolting it up. Make sure the converter is all the way in. You will feel it click 3 times. If its not all the way in and you try to bolt it up you will destroy your front pump.
I hope I didnt leave out anything.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like everything to me. The only other thing I would do is replace the torx bolts on the stock converter with some regular bolts, grade 8 or better. I drop my exhaust down also because it is in the way for me. I use a 3-4' extension with the tranny tilted down you can get to all the top bolts. Do the bottom bolts last after disconnecting the electrical and cooler lines. Support the trany on a good size jack, pull the bottom two bell housing bolts and pull the trans back an inch out from the dowels pins. Then you can drop it.

2001NBMZ28

Here's a link on a TC install with some pics that may help http://www.modernmusclecars.net/foru...p?do=tcinstall

camzaro28

damn, thanks guys. leaving here in about an hour. thanks for them pics too. def helps.

studentdriver

I can dig up the Haynes manual for you if you want. Is it getting a race converter or anything cool?

camzaro28

only thing gettin done to it is sonnax red 3-4 band and 3/4 raybestos z pak
i had a tci 2800 stall in there but he said if i put that back in he is not doin a warranty. so i am goin with stock stall speed, but midwest. he carry them in stock.
this is my 4th tranny, and everytime its the damn 2-4 band fryin.
any other parts u think of, send em my way. but i only plan on 400 tops at the wheels for this tranny. any suggestions?
thanks for that picture tutorial. that should be stickied

BudH

iTrader: (3)

If it's frying the band that bad, then something's not set/built right on the tranny. What servos are you using for the 2nd and 4th gear shifts? You should be running at least a Corvette servo for the 2nd gear shift and I recommend a billet servo (Sonnax, Jet, etc.) for the 3-4 shift, especially if you are running the car WOT at the 4th gear shift point? You can run a Billet servo for the 2nd gear shift as well, but that shift will be pretty hard for street driving!

JMHO!