Please HELP..Strange Crunching/popping noise
#1
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Please HELP..Strange Crunching/popping noise
Hey all,
I have been trying to figure this out for months. I get this strange crunching/popping noise when turning left under load. It sounds/feels like something is building up a slight resistance or pressure and then POP, car drives ok, there is no wobbling, I removed axles and they were fine, replaced rear axle bearings, diff is fine. Recently changed to Poly trans mount and new clutch, no noise for first 3 months and then it suddenly appeared. IF I take a left with clutch depressed or in neutral it doesnt happen. I have weld in SFC's and BMR LCA's as well, lubed and tightened bolts, didnt fix it. I am so frustrated with this car. I haven't found any members in Austin Texas and don't really know anyone here since grew up in Mass.
Can someone please make a suggestion. I tightened up various bolts underneath such as LCA's, Panhard rod bolts, etc..
I have been trying to figure this out for months. I get this strange crunching/popping noise when turning left under load. It sounds/feels like something is building up a slight resistance or pressure and then POP, car drives ok, there is no wobbling, I removed axles and they were fine, replaced rear axle bearings, diff is fine. Recently changed to Poly trans mount and new clutch, no noise for first 3 months and then it suddenly appeared. IF I take a left with clutch depressed or in neutral it doesnt happen. I have weld in SFC's and BMR LCA's as well, lubed and tightened bolts, didnt fix it. I am so frustrated with this car. I haven't found any members in Austin Texas and don't really know anyone here since grew up in Mass.
Can someone please make a suggestion. I tightened up various bolts underneath such as LCA's, Panhard rod bolts, etc..
#3
Have you checked your torque arm? That is the unit that goes from the axle and follows the driveshaft up to a pinned spot near the transmission. I know it is common for these to break and come loose. Sometimes, they are hard to spot as they will crack first. Guessing from your mods and clutch, it looks like you may drive your car hard. So, check that. I hope this helps...not many people are on this time of night.
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That is about the only part I havent checked. When I installed my clutch and trans mount and put the Torque arm back on it seemed to be ok, but that was about 8 months ago. I do drive it hard...ha ha but ya know
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Yeah, I figured it was on its way out. It drives straight now at about 5mph..just enough to get to a shop. I would do the work myself but have no experience with setting backlash and don't have a magnetic base dial indicator, not to mention I know absolutely nobody in Austin Texas to help out.
BBBWWWAAAAAA Here goes another 1500 bucks into the money pit.
Is it worth it anymore?....dunno with 50.00 plus a week in gas. who knows.
BBBWWWAAAAAA Here goes another 1500 bucks into the money pit.
Is it worth it anymore?....dunno with 50.00 plus a week in gas. who knows.
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I was about to say, it's your rear going out. Same exact symptoms my car went through right before it went. You can do the rear end work yourself, I too had no experience at all with working on this, but after reading a little on this board and using this as a guide: http://www.fullsizechevy.com/fscu/axletech/ I was able to fix my 10-bolt. Check to see if your ring and pinion are still intact and if they're in good condition. If they are, then it's a hell of a lot easier to fix this yourself. You'll just basically have to swap out the carrier (assuming you just broke some spider gears) and have to get the backlash right. A good dial indicator with magnetic base will run you about $100, then all you need is a new carrier (can be found for about $150). All you have to put in is the work. Plus if you have any questions, just ask here on the board. If you installed your cam, I'm pretty confident you can do this in your garage.
Last edited by Krab; 08-09-2005 at 05:35 PM.