GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Ok, after all the input you guys gave me I reconsidered my expectations and have some new questions. Here is Part 2.

Here is what I'm looking for:
-LS1 - preferred.
-no Forced Ind, no juice
-no HUGE nasty cam - moderate is ok
-Street driveable and reliable - this is the key
-430-440 rwhp @ 20% driveline loss works to ~ 540-550 flywheel hp.
-basically be able to take almost any other street car (except maybe a blown viper)

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My definition of streetable: I'd be able to take the car anywhere I do now. Movies, mall, dragstrip, Burger King drive thru. This won't be a daily driver anymore, however I still will drive it 2-3 times a week. I don't care about gas mileage as I won't make any long trips in this car. I also don't want a cam SO big that I have to worry about the car stalling out on me. I want to keep the stock vehicle weight and AC.
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Here is what I will be doing in preparation:
-high strength aluminum driveshaft
-Stage 2 4L60E (600hp, 650 ftlbs) from cmotorsports.com
-Vig 3000 stall
-tranny cooler
-suspension to handle the power
-Rearend......???


Here are my questions:
1. Difference between 9" and 12 bolt? What spline axles to go with and why?
2. Where can I find forged internals for a 408 you guys suggested?
3. If i went to a 5.3L and punched out to 6.0L, that is 408 cubes right? So its not an LS1 powered car anymore correct?
4. If so, can you punch out an LS1 to approximate that? I know they have stroked LS1's in the 420 cubes range

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Part of the problem of my first unrealistic expectations is that I haven't experienced that kind of power before, so its hard to know what is "enough". Remember this is going to be a street car that I take to the track once or twice a month. I've ridden in a high 11s car, but as a passenger (which always makes it feel faster), and it was fast, but I want faster.
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PS. How much do you guys think it will cost? Engine build, labor, tuning, & install. I'm doing everything else before hand. Also I'll have all the usual bolts ons intake and exhaust, etc.

blue2000Z28

First your stall is still tooooo small. I still say 4000+. If you get a good set of stage 2 heads and a decent size cam you will be close, then add the FAST system on there and i am willing to bet your on or more than 440. But your going to need a converter first....

777

iTrader: (21)

1. Difference between 9" and 12 bolt? What spline axles to go with and why?

A 9" will be stronger and weigh more (unless you get a fabricated one from billingsley), it will also be quiter than the 12-bolt. Highest spline axles, they will be the strongest.

2. Where can I find forged internals for a 408 you guys suggested?

Almost any sponsor carries forged internals for a 408. I'd personally go with Futral.

3. If i went to a 5.3L and punched out to 6.0L, that is 408 cubes right? So its not an LS1 powered car anymore correct?

First you cannot punch a 5.3L block to a 6.0L bore. LS1 is one engine, however it is slang for all of the gen III engines (ls1, ls6, lq9, etc...)

4. If so, can you punch out an LS1 to approximate that? I know they have stroked LS1's in the 420 cubes range

Those ls1's are re-sleeved. You cannot bore out an ls1 much at all, it will only tolerate a slight hone. You are best off getting the ls2 block w/4.000"bore (aluminum) or the lQ9 which is iron.

blkZ28spt

Bigger stall! Just go with a nice 4000. If you are horribly concerned with running too many rpm's under acceleration make it a Yank SS4000. (I daily driver a TCI SSF4000 with absolutely NO problems or regrets)

I'd say go at least mid 230's on the cam. Check out the TSP MS3 and LG G5X3.

Even a 4k stalled F-body with all bolt-ons, heads, cam and minor weight reduction isn't going to be able to take everything on the road. That is why my plan (slow to get to it) is for a heads/cam 346 BUT with a few key upgrades such as forged pistons and a nice shot of nitrous for those times when you really need POWER.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

sorry, someone told me truck motor and I assumed the 5.3L. What is the designation for the truck 6.0L motor. What is the cubic inches on that motor?

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

how does a high stall like that differ from a stock one? How does it behave with such a high stall. What I mean is what kind of differences in daily driving should i expect?

Thanks for bearing with me as I learn about what get the results I'm looking for. Its gonna be a big project, and i'm sure i'll have a lot more questions coming up too.

mikemodano9c

it's not a huge deal...basically it will feel like your transmission is slipping...lol

just something you will have to get used to...

tuning will be a must...

i would ditch the 2.73's and get 3.42's or 3.73's in a 12 bolt or 9in...or maybe a hybrid 8.8

afr205's, good size cam, 90/90 setup, longtubes, ory with a cutout/quiet catback since it seems like you wanna go through drive thru's, all the small things, big converter (at least a 3500 stall), tuning...

should put you right around your goal...good luck

EDIT: i see you already have longtubes and TD's...hopefully that 315rw is before the longtubes...you should be at around 340rw right now with them...

blkZ28spt

The 315 rwhp might very well be with the longtubes. With longtubes, duals, CAI and a lid (untuned) I only put down 319 rwhp and 337 rwtq.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

yeah you nailed it. dyno numbers were after LT's. In my defense though I put on cats at the same time.

Race Car Driver

See my sig which outlines the 346 FM built for me, which made 453/406. The additional 22 hp you're looking for could come from a combination of a tad more compression, cam and/or heads.

mikemodano9c

you guys just have to pick good parts and see what power you make...it all adds up...my car put down 340/350 with just a lid, filter, macs, duals....then i ditched them and got hooker longtubes...

my big mistake were the heads i bought...i have patriot stage 2 5.3's that i got for 1,000 bucks new...

i never dynoed with the converter locked but im pretty sure it would lay down right around 420...i can still add a 90/90 setup, UD pulley, etc...so maybe if i could reach ~440 with all the bells and whistles...don't really care right now though...i only spent 1300 for this cam and the heads...lol

good size cam, afr 205's, ls6/90mm intake, UD pulley, longtubes, ory/xpipe duals, 3500+ converter...should net around 430-440 in a A4...be happy with that your car will haul *** and go 10's with a little suspension work...

XTrooper

My only comment that is if you want to go with a larger displacement motor, irrespective of whether you're starting with a 5.7L or 6.0L block, I strongly suggest you just go ahead and buy a balanced and blueprinted engine rather than buy the block, buy the rotating assembly, etc, etc, etc and then pray whoever builds it isn't having a bad day when he does the assembly job.

Take a look at the motors offered by Rapid Motorsports. I'm planning on purchasing one of Mike's Rapid Dominator Series 382 LS1 short blocks next year.

http://www.rapidmotorsports.com/

It will be cheaper in the long run to buy an assembled motor and, if purchased from a reputable source, you won't have to worry over whether whoever built it did a proper job or not.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Ok i think i've decided on the LS2 408 stroker. Now just where to get it from.

Rapid motorsports is a little pricey.....but not out of the running.

Here is the SLP one, what do you guys think?
http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12412

Race Car Driver

Make your decision based on anticipated quality, not price.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

I have heard good and bad things about that motor, but if it were me i would have one built by a reputable company such as TSP or thunder racing.

That way you can speak with the person building your motor and tell them exactly what you want.

Bluehawk27

which company are you talking about? slp or Rapid Motorsports?