frey51

Before I put the window switch on my nitrous was working just fine. But now it just wont work. I used the diagram from the NX site but I am not sure where I went wrong, or if the switch may be malfunctioning. (http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/FPSS_diagram.htm) I dont have a fpss so the white wire from my relay got hooked directly to the yellow on the switch. I have power and I have a good ground. When I hooked to the tach signal from the pcm I used white pin number 10 on the lower of the two cpu's (am I on the right wire for tach signal?). I also cut both the blue and the red wires and put it in 4cyl mode, like I was told to do. I did get the switch used from a member on the board, although I cant remember who as it was a while back.

I really need help getting this damned thing working correctly. If anyone has had any issues similar to this, please help me out.

Thanks in advance
Fry

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

What kind of car is this on?

frey51

sorry, its on my Z28 in my signatrue...and its the old pill activated type.

Fry

frey51

I just went out and tested to make sure my WOT switch activates the sylonoids, and it dosnt. With the system armed my purge works fine, but when I try to activate the wot switch it dosnt complete the circuit. One big question now remains, does the wiring for the window switch have anything to do with the wireing on the wot switch? The connections on the wot seem to be fine, but I cannot see where they hook to the relay (they are in wire loom), and because it is dark out and I dont feel like tearing it up in the dark.

Anything?

Thanks... Fry

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I dont understand why you cut the wires. You have a v8.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

nevermind I cut mine too. So now im confused as to why you put it in 4cyl mode.

The window switch does affect the wot switch. You should bypass the window switch and make sure everything works.. w/o nitrous and fuel of course.

frey51

Everyone has said that the pcm for the ls1 sends tach signals like a 4cly, and the msd switch wont work if it is in 8cyl mode. I had numerous people tell me this, and I also had a tech at MSD tell this too me also. Have you never heard this before?

If I am not above 3000rpms (power to the system, no rpms) and I hit the wot switch should it still do something to show me that is works? Or will the lack of being above 3000 give me the results I am getting now?

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

No I never heard it. I just cut them and missed that part and it confused me.


But yeah the ground is now run to the wot switch so even if you push the wot button then it wont let it work until it gets between those rpms. I would just ground it w/o the msd and then see if it works and then you know its something to do w/ the msd.

frey51

I know for a fact that it worked fine before I hooked up the w/s, and we never messed with any other wireing, other than hooking up the w/s. I will try bypassing the window switch on Saturday, but am I hooking it up correctly? to the correct pin on the pcm, etc.?

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

WITH SYSTEM ARMED. CAR NOT RUNNING
Ok you should see a 12volt signal before the wot switch
Push the switch and you sould see 12 volts going to the relay red wire#86.
NOTHING should be clicking at this point.
Should also have power on the black relay wire #30
with the wot still pressed ground the white wire #85
You should hear the noids and relay fire...(remember just do it for a breif moment) you will get a small amout of fuel injected if there is pressure in the fuel rail.
OK if it clicks that half of the puzzle is good, if not move the ground wire to -negative side of battery, if still no click relay is bad, or bad connection at the relay...

NOW TESTING THE WINDOW SWITCH. PULL THE RELAY OUT OF ITS SOCKET
Red should be have 12volts while the arming switch is on. make sure the ground wire has a good ground for testing...Negative side of battery if need be.
White msd wire to computers rpm wire. Install the lowest rpm chip you have in the low side of the window switch.... Start the car and with a volt meter, one side on a hot the other on the yellow wire. Get and beyond the rpm low chip point. You should see 12 volts once you break that point,
IF you do not then recheck the window switches wires, and retest.. If still not working then its a bad window switch...
Here is a drawing that might help, when checking a wiring issue start att he begining and work through the wiring till you find a problem..
Hope this helps.
Ricky

frey51

Just to clarify on this point, I ground the #85 pin directly off of the relay not through the window switch correct? (as this is to bypass the w/s to make sure the relay and noids are working correctly?)

how can I test, I am a little confused about that part?

frey51

I just went out on my Lunch break and disconnected the #85 relay wire from the window switch and grounded it while activating the wot switch. The noids fired just fine. I then checked that my wiring for the window switch was correct and it sure seems to be, as long as the #10 pin on the lower computer is the tach signal. Does this point to a faulty window switch?

Thanks for the help.

frey51

I didnt have the power source on the window switch correct. It was using the power that the wot activated, so it didnt have a constant power source. Once I gave it constant power she worked beautifully.